Wiring Harness Problems?

[SportTrac101]

I have a 2002 ST. Oil pump failed. Bought a salvage engine. The "mechanic" recommended to me by an employee of a large chain parts retailer, somehow lost the engine wiring harness. Went to Ford with VIN and they provided a replacement harness. Now, engine is very hard to start, speedometer reads 85 mph with engine off/key in ON position, an "extra" 3 satb connector, a sensor with a 2 stab connection with no connector provided, with air conditioner on and accelerating up a grade, engine starts to miss (fuel pump presure reading 60), wiper delay backwards (lopng line is shortest delay now), THEFT light flutters when engine is running, plus a couple other "gremlins". Should I suspect the harness? Should wiring harness be based on VIN number or engine number? 2nd ST, love 'em!!

 

[ncranchero]

1st question, what harness was lost, the vehicle harness or the harness on the salvage engine you bought? Bet THAT was expensive to replace!
2nd question, what was the engine you bought out of? Do you have your old engine to compare it too?

Your info on the left says 2001, your post says 2002.....which do you have?

Your harness should go with the VIN but there are differences in year model motors.

 

[SportTrac101]

Wiring Harness Problems

ncranchero,

Thanks much for the reply. Actually, it was both. The recommended "mechanic" said he had messed up the original at the large connector on the firewall. S/B no problem, use the one that came with the engine. 30 days later, he said he could not find the one that came with the salvage engine. I think he was torqued because I finally had it towed elsewhere after 2+ months of excuses. The gentleman that is now trying to fix it worked as a bus mechanic (later, head of vehicle maint.) for a local school district. He is pretty good. Yes, NEW harness was almost 350 bucks. The original guy said the engine came from a 2002 ST that had been hit in the back. He also said he let it run for an hour before they removed it, but who knows? No, I do not have the old engine to compare. I now have a 2002 ST. Had a 2001, hit some black ice last winter (no joy). Purchased the 2002 with insurance pay out. Local Ford store showed 3 separate WH. New guy took VIN so it should be correct. New guy said everything connected except a sensor up on driver side. Sensor had 2 stab connection, WH had 3. He took photo and went back to Ford. Got the replacement sensor, no codes. New guy got it running, but has issues. VERY hard to start when cold. THEFT light flutters when running. Works normal when off. New guy thinks it could be the anti theft relay (connected to anti theft transceiver module by the "arm". He thinks the flutter (and problems) could be caused by some connection issues with the round pin tha goes through the arm to the transceiver module. I am looking for some sort of reset procedure (similar to GM). Is there any such animal? I could sure use some guidance. Ny wife wants her CR-V back. Thanks, Jim G.

 

[ncranchero]

ncranchero,

VERY hard to start when cold. THEFT light flutters when running. Works normal when off. New guy thinks it could be the anti theft relay (connected to anti theft transceiver module by the "arm". He thinks the flutter (and problems) could be caused by some connection issues with the round pin tha goes through the arm to the transceiver module. I am looking for some sort of reset procedure (similar to GM). Is there any such animal? I could sure use some guidance. My wife wants her CR-V back. Thanks, Jim G.

No "reset" procedure. Anything to do with the PATS has to be done with the Ford WDS or STAR tester. There are several really good threads on here concerning the PATS, THIS being one of them. Check it out.

You have a private message here also.

 

[SportTrac101]

Some progress. Got 2 new keys and remotes programmed by local Ford dealer. Helped some. Both keys seem to work ok. If I wait for all ON lights to go off, truck cranks for 4-6 seconds then starts. If I do not wait, I could be cranking on and off for several minutes. Theft light still flickers almost constantly during operation. Not as bad when sitting still (parked or at a stop). Wierd thing, if I accelerate, theft light goes off until I let off the pedal, then starts flickering again. There is a gas smell when stationary (stop light, sign or at shutdown. Leaking injector rail?? Check Engine light still does not illuminate at all. After 20-30 minutes with A/C on, engine cuts out, does not die, but cuts out. If it had a carburetor, I would say it was vapor locked. After I shut off A/C, engine picks back up. If I leave off for 60 seconds or so, I can turn the A/C back on and it will not happen for another 20-30 minutes.