Won't Start...Again!

[swhite005]

Well, I'm having the same problem as before...
Went to start the vehicle, turned the key and heard a click, but nothing more. The engine doesn't turn over, but the accessories work. Now I don't even hear a click. With the headlights on, when I turn the key to start, the lights turn off. Based on other posts, I heard that if that happens, it's probably the battery or wiring. I had the battery checked at Autozone and they said it's fine.
When I had the problem before, I had a lot of corrosion on the positive battery terminal. Cleaned both terminals and made sure the connections were good, also sprayed some anti-corrosion stuff on the terminals, and the vehicle started right up...worked fine for about 2 weeks.
When I tried to start the car today and it wouldn't start, I noticed the anti-corrosion spray on the positive terminal was bubbling for a few minutes.
Do you think I should replace the Positive and Negative terminals? The dealership says there is a positive wire from battery to starter relay and another from starter relay to starter...do both need to be replaced? they cost about $40.00 each.

 

[trollkepr]

Your starter solenoid could be stuck. It would not let the starter engage but would drain all the power. A new starter unit should do the trick.

 

[eric©]

Check your cables first. I just got done replacing mine today after dealing with hard start issues for the past few weeks. Starter would turn slow, and felt like it drained the battery after a second or two of cranking. Ended up being corroded cables from the battery to the solenoid, and from solenoid to starter. I used universal replacement style cables. I've got a ton of spare cable in the garage, but you can new ones at auto parts stores for about $10/each.

My cables looked OK from the outside, but when I cut back the rubber and insulation, they were heavily corroded a couple inches back from the connector. I also took this time to clean out my starter, and install new brushes. The brushes were nearly worn back to the wires. After new brushes, and all new cable, the starter spins right up and the truck starts a LOT quicker. Seems the early 90's Explorers and Rangers were real bad on corroding cables.

 

[swhite005]

Well, I replaced the positive and negative battery cables and so far so good. In case you're planning on doing it for maintenance or a similar problem I was having...I found the easiest method to remove the old cables was by accessing them through the passenger and driver fender well. Both cables run along the chasis behind the front passenger tire. The negative cable stops at the passenger side engine block and is connected to the block with a bolt. The bolt can be accessed through the fender well (passenger side). You can not reach it from under the vehicle because the oil filter is in the way. The negative cable is also connected to the chasis behind the passenger tire fender well by a bolt. This bolt can be accessed from under the vehicle or through the fender well. I used a box wrench to remove it because there wasn't enough room to fit a socket. The positive battery cable continues under the vehicle and connects to the top of the starter on the driver's side. The top of the starter can be accessed through the driver's front fender well. The positive connects to the starter by a bolt and another plug. I did both cables without having to remove any tires. Hope this helps...

 

[CDW6212R]

Complete a general starter circuit inspection and test. Check all connections, and battery voltage(engine off) after not running for a while. Test the alternator voltage when running at idle, it should be above 12.5-13 volts, and less than 15 volts.

It sounds like you found the problem. If the basic tests hadn't discovered anything, next would have been to hold the key to start, and tap the starter solenoid with a screwdriver handle. If a starter solenoid ever hangs up, either open or closed, replace it. They are either work perfectly, or they should be thrown away. Regards,