Would clutch rod bushing cause a clutch switch failure

[Jonylevers]

Afternoon all this being my first question on the forum it may have been asked before and if it has i could not find the thread anyway i have issues with starting my little pig, though everything points to a clutch position switch failure i am asking if anyone replaced the worn clutch rod bushing first and seeing if that fixed the issue first without having to buy another switch.. I have done a bypass on the start circuit though to avail turns over does not fire i had intermittent start yesterday (5 or so pumps of clutch, cycle the gears) .

 

[RangerX]

I’m guessing by clutch position sensor, you mean what others call the neutral safety switch? It clips on to the top of the clutch pedal arm and only lets you start the truck if you have the clutch pushed in?

 

[Jonylevers]

I’m guessing by clutch position sensor, you mean what others call the neutral safety switch? It clips on to the top of the clutch pedal arm and only lets you start the truck if you have the clutch pushed in?

Correct though have now replaced the bushing to find it is not the issue !

 

[RangerX]

So now are you looking at the switch?

 

[C420sailor]

bypass the clutch switch, and check it for continuity. Two good tests to rule out the switch and potentially the circuit

 

[Jonylevers]

So now are you looking at the switch?

Actually i replaced the switch when i replaced the clutch rod bushing, seems i have power to the fuel pump yet NO power to the spark- NO codes have popped up for the CKP sensor though check engine light says on while cranking ( no start ) have looked at the thread in regards to problem solving the CKP sensor that will be the job for tomorrow .

 

[C420sailor]

We’ve had an absolute rash of unresolved no-spark issues lately. What the hell is going on?

 

[Josh P]

We’ve had an absolute rash of unresolved no-spark issues lately. What the hell is going on?

My thoughts exactly.

 

[Josh P]

Actually i replaced the switch when i replaced the clutch rod bushing, seems i have power to the fuel pump yet NO power to the spark- NO codes have popped up for the CKP sensor though check engine light says on while cranking ( no start ) have looked at the thread in regards to problem solving the CKP sensor that will be the job for tomorrow .

The check engine light while cranking is a good sign. Need to check ignition coil for power, and check the 5V reference wire. A shorted sensor will cause no spark. There is a square connector at the back of the engine with a 10mm bolt that holds it together. That connection is a common failure point.

 

[Jonylevers]

We’ve had an absolute rash of unresolved no-spark issues lately. What the hell is going on?

Maybe it`s the age of the vehicle, this one was parked up on a mates farm for a year, though this has me stumped as the ck

The check engine light while cranking is a good sign. Need to check ignition coil for power, and check the 5V reference wire. A shorted sensor will cause no spark. There is a square connector at the back of the engine with a 10mm bolt that holds it together. That connection is a common failure point.

Thank you for that bit of info will look into it tomorrow Josh .

 

[Fix4Dirt]

We’ve had an absolute rash of unresolved no-spark issues lately. What the hell is going on?

^^^is there a ford curse going round? havent seen this many before haha

 

[Jonylevers]

Well so far this morning i have found that the pulse to the fuel pump is controlled by the PCM through the fuel relay which is controlled by the position of the Camshaft sensor, not the CKP sensor as i first thought, so the cranking of the engine with the fuel pump running means camshaft sensor is fine( cranked engine for about 5 seconds with pump ticking over ), the CKP sensor has 1.5 volts along the wire as required, though i cannot test for a voltage pulse from the CKP sensor as right now i have no volunteers to assist with turning the key, i am very sure the CKP sensor is at fault with no spark present from the coils, being that this chariot is nudging 27 years on the road and i have only had it for a few months i may just change the CKP sensor along with the camshaft sensor and the temp sender and temp sensor, as the sender itself needs replacing.

 

[Jonylevers]

All fixed up and running, turns out it was the CKP sensor just need a clean.

 

[410Fortune]

copy that! Glad you got your spark back

A little info
the "3position clutch switch" attached to the clutch pedal is called a 3 pos switch because it has the following circuits going through it:

1 Starter enable, ignition switch to starter relay on inner fender.
You push clutch in it allows starter to turn

So if you have a starter then this switch is not the problem

2. ESOF 4x4 low shift
You push clutch in it allows the electronic 4x4 shift motor to shift into low range

3. Cruise control
You push clutch in cruiser controls ability to control throttle is stopped
So engine does not rev to the sky when cruise is on and you push in clutch

Performs the same functions that a Neutral safety switch in an auto trans would normally do (chevy guys always call these NSS no matter where on the truck they occur)

the crank sensor is a VR magnetic type sensor, there is a pulse it sends to the pcm but no power TO IT, just a signal wire and a ground
THIS IS the sensor used to let the PCM know the engine is rotating time to allow spark

The cam synchronizer is used to time the spark

hope this helps!

Crank sensors are very typical issue with a no spark condition. The sensor is located low and is exposed to road grime, salt, etc