Wow been a while.

[3rdgenx]

I had to go back and read my old posts to barely remember the mechanical work I did early on the Explorer.
Lately it has been starting to show it's age.
Had the rear sway bar bushing done a few months ago and that was a major improvement sound-wise at least.
Had fronts done too.
5 yr old Battery just died- didn't drive it enough this winter.
Got a new 3yr warranty battery so that's my level of optimism. 3 more years!

Bought Ford timing chain tensioners a few months ago and am about to go for it.
I can't tell how much my chains are rattling but I'm sure they probably are.

Got my first leaky thermostat housing and went ahead and ordered the Simmons metal housing, and bolts, new motorcraft thermostat, & motorcraft bypass hose.
Hoping I can just drain a little coolant and top off after?

Also gonna do spark plugs for the first time at 132k.

I appreciate this site, tons of helpful info.

 

[94Eddie]

It is good to see you're out of your eight year hibernation on posting. Welcome back! When the miles rack up repairs are needed but then I remeber the amount I spend per year on repairs and maintenance would barely cover two typical monthly payments on a loaded 2022 Explorer. Plus my insurance is less and my personal property tax is way, way less than on a loaded 2022 ($1,887 vs $172).

 

[chris8428]

Plugs and plug wires will make a big difference in fuel economy. I did mine last summer and the fueling saving in four tanks made up the cost of the plugs and plug wires. And that was before gas prices went up.

 

[Number4]

Plugs and plug wires will make a big difference in fuel economy. I did mine last summer and the fueling saving in four tanks made up the cost of the plugs and plug wires. And that was before gas prices went up.

I did my wife’s ‘05 4.0 plugs at about 70/80k miles? They were firing and the car was running fine. But damn, I couldn’t believe how far out the gap was. Gas mileage seemed to gain 2mpg after doing this. Been a while.

 

[3rdgenx]

Well parts are all finally in and the spring break snow maybe will melt so I can tackle this tomorrow.
The Simmons thermostat housing is pretty impressive, gonna be centerpiece of the the engine bay.
Couple of questions:
On antifreeze - mine has green in it, I guess it always has? The autoparts stores dont seem to have any green that says compatible with the explorer though. I am hoping to only need a gallon?
Also on the rear tensioner, most how to's on that seem to instruct to take off passenger wheel and trim inside wheel well, but it looks totally accessible from the top to me, just like the spark plug its next to. Am I missing something or is it just the difference in year models/features?

 

[donalds]

Am I missing something or is it just the difference in year models/features?

Correct
I can get to mine On my 99 sleeper just by removing the tire and the rubber splash shield

On yours the egr tube and valve may be in the way
Was on my 04

 

[Number4]

Does yours have rear AC?

I would flush your system, they make vacuum device that does it, also refills it. Run only Zerex G-05 in it. The yellow stuff.

The tensioners will stick to the block and there’s not much of a head to grab. So your need to be straight on. I think the best thing to do, is being the vehicle up to temp, then break it loose, but don’t remove it.

 

[3rdgenx]

Does yours have rear AC?

I would flush your system, they make vacuum device that does it, also refills it. Run only Zerex G-05 in it. The yellow stuff.

The tensioners will stick to the block and there’s not much of a head to grab. So your need to be straight on. I think the best thing to do, is being the vehicle up to temp, then break it loose, but don’t remove it.

thanks all
No rear ac. I was considering that- warm up car a little. I am tempted to try from top without removing wheel. (attached a pic of how spacious and enticing it is from top)

Also on the flush, I am planning on doing that, but am sort of trying to minimize the mess on round 1. And I will go with Zerex G-05 when I do.

I think today will be thermostat housing removal/replacement & front divers side timing tensioner.

I also have a odb2 to usb adapter (Amazon product ASIN B094Z7PBLS) on its way to hopefully read some codes with forscan, if anyone has any advice on that front.

 

[donalds]

Yes the egr tube will need to be loosened up at least for me it was

 

[Number4]

If you heat up the block, you may be able to get it from up top. What’s difficult is keeping pressure against the engine while also trying to break it loose.
If you turn the wheel to the right, take out the wheel well, you can get at it from there.

Your biggest issue will most likely be breaking it loose. It’s probably 1/8-1/4” head to grab. Not much, so it’s easy to slip/round it.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Your biggest issue will most likely be breaking it loose. It’s probably 1/8-1/4” head to grab. Not much, so it’s easy to slip/round it.

In this case I usually start with a bolt extractor socket since you can usually get a much better grip with it than a regular socket or box wrench. I have never seen a bolt extractor socket smaller than 1/4", so that might be too big to work if the head is actually smaller than 1/4". Why would anyone make a bolt heat that small for any engine part anyway?

That engine bay is spotlessly clean by the way.

LMHmedchem

 

[Number4]

In this case I usually start with a bolt extractor socket since you can usually get a much better grip with it than a regular socket or box wrench. I have never seen a bolt extractor socket smaller than 1/4", so that might be too big to work if the head is actually smaller than 1/4". Why would anyone make a bolt heat that small for any engine part anyway?

That engine bay is spotlessly clean by the way.

LMHmedchem

Oh, the bolt diameter is something like 27mm or so. But the amount the socket fits over to grab is very small.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Oh, the bolt diameter is something like 27mm or so. But the amount the socket fits over to grab is very small.

That sounds awfully annoying. It would have been nice if they could have given you a little more to work with.

LMHmedchem

 

[3rdgenx]

Well, got tensioner and new housing/thermostat in. So far so good. One bolt scared me a little on housing with a creak but they all came out intact not looking too bad. I wimped out on replacing the bypass hose to water pump as access to those clamps with my channel locks was not happening.
32+ ft lbs for tensioner and w/new gasket washer. I hand tightened most of the way. Then 32 didn't feel like much.
89+ in lbs for thermostat housing.
But to keep the suspense going...
Haven't tested it out yet.
I don't know what kind of coolant to add (less than a gallon of green was emptied)
All the green on auto parts websites says incompatible with my car. I am going to call the shop where I get my oil changed and ask what they top it off with.
Thinking about just adding water to test it all out then doing a flush/refill with Zerex G-05.
After I get the coolant level figured out, then...
Crank it with gas pedal floored till oil pressure, then we'll see.

Ordering plug wires tonight
Also tempted to get this to try the back tensioner:
Advance Auto Parts - 27mm+wrench

I think it would also fit egr nut?

 

[LMHmedchem]

All the green on auto parts websites says incompatible with my car. I am going to call the shop where I get my oil changed and ask what they top it off with.
Thinking about just adding water to test it all out then doing a flush/refill with Zerex G-05.

I can't say for sure because I have a 2002 v8, but I have used this green,

Prestone All Vehicles Concentrate

If you don't know how much coolant is already in the system then I think you should use pre-mixed or pre-mix it yourself before adding. It's perfectly fine to use water in the short term as long as you are sure that it is not going to freeze. If your tap water has allot of solvated minerals in it then I would use distilled. Water is the best coolant in the world.

Whatever you use, just fill to the cold fill line on the reservoir. There should be a burping procedure to get air out of the hoses after you start it up. This varies based on the engine so I will let others comment.

LMHmedchem

 

[Number4]

This was a game changer for evacuating/refilling ALL my vehicles. As well as being able to determine there’s no leaks. Think I paid $70 for one online.

Also, I didn’t need to remove the EGR tube to do the back tensioner.

 

[3rdgenx]

This was a game changer for evacuating/refilling ALL my vehicles. As well as being able to determine there’s no leaks. Think I paid $70 for one online.

Also, I didn’t need to remove the EGR tube to do the back tensioner.

What was? Link must be missing?
thanks

 

[Number4]

What was? Link must be missing?
thanks

Oops, here’s the link. Also, for Maculoco2000, ALWAYS click on the ad links so he gets paid. If you aren’t following him on YouTube, you should be.



I will say, the one I bought had too much plastic. I will be making my own.

 

[3rdgenx]

Quick update, topped off with 50/50 green universal fram 1 gallon. Started engine with gas floored to get oil pressure and seemed fine with no harsh rattle (I did not prime tensioner as I saw conflicting info and was more worried about cross threading with too much primed pressure)
Don't see any oil or coolant leaks so far>
I may have abandoned the idea of doing the other external tensioner from the top, mostly. The angle is sort of weird. But it's really not that much torque.

Crazy part, during this repair, I noticed the thermostat housing wasn't original. Thought hmm, must've been previous owner. Next day I was questioning that and sure enough I remember now. I had it replaced in 2017 by the dealership I got it at... under warranty.

 

[3rdgenx]

Going to try for plugs wires and rear pass side tensioner today.
Took 3 drivers side plugs out yesterday. Sorta crunchy coming out. Didn't like that, but threads look good. Gap was huge on old ones , .090+/- going for .061 on new ones. Sort of on the fence about anti seize, dont want to feel crunchiness but really dont want to over torque/strip threads, leaning towards dry (as ford recommends?) Looks like I have to unbolt alternator to replace wires on passenger side.