Yet another T-Cases to mount to the V8 Thread

[Nitrous SSC]

How heavy is that T-case? I like the idea of not dinking with wiring cause of my air ride. I also like the idea of a manual style. Less stuff to go wrong. I'm also thinking if I could fit a shifter next to the message center. Anyone got pics of doing that? Like on the V6 trucks?

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

sweetness.
Good luck with the U joint situation.
Why does a IFS truck need a slipyoke ont he front driveshaft? the YT case and pumkin should not move much, only frame flex and drivetrain mounts would allow a little bit of flex correct?

It technically doesn't need a yoke, it could be fixed. In fact, the navigator shaft I almost bought was fixed (but would have needed shortening).

The slip yoke mearly allowed for adjustment in length, since I am using a shaft from another truck, not a custom made one.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

What would be the difference between a manual BW1356 and a BW4406??

The 4406's clocking allows the front output to clear the torsion bar x-member. I'm not sure if the 1356 will clear the x-member. It's worth the R&D, those cases are cheap and pelntiful. You'll also have to figure out the d-shafts.

Ford came out with the 4406 for its torsion bar equipped full size trucks with cross members and t-bar mounts very similar to ours - just bigger. The driveshaft passes above the x-member, as well. The older BW cases were used on TTB trucks, and I'm not sure how their cross member is set up.

I liked the 4406 because TMSOKO proved it would clear the t-bar x-member, and it had control trac, a feature I wanted.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

How heavy is that T-case? I like the idea of not dinking with wiring cause of my air ride. I also like the idea of a manual style. Less stuff to go wrong. I'm also thinking if I could fit a shifter next to the message center. Anyone got pics of doing that? Like on the V6 trucks?

I didn't weigh the case, sorry. It was about 25% heavier than the 4404 or 4405. Maybe TMSOKO can weigh his, or you could bring a scale to a junkyard.

If the air ride is not connected to the GEM, you're a-ok with the wiring.

The manual shift does come up on the driver's side of the transmission, I'm sure it could be fabbed to work.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Pictures from the electrical install:

Parts Needed:

- GEM
- Bezel with switches
- Torque On Demand Relay
- Shift Relay
- T-case harness
- Wiring harness pins and plugs: StadX2 needed the wiring conntectors, which my local dealer gave me for free (They rock). However, my truck was 100% pre-wired, and they were not needed. This highlights the difference in wiring between my 97 and his 98, and why paying attention to "year ranges" is so important!

Torque On Demand Relay:

Brown wire clipped and extended for 2wd switch:

Shift Motor Relay, and GEM:

T-case wiring harness, under driver's seat:

T-case wiring harness, at t-case:

Big thanks to StadX2, his research in the electrics portion of the swap meant all I had to d0 was plug in modules!

His writeup can be found here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85487

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Front Driveshaft Photos

Front d-shaft installed.

Autozone had the u-joint I needed, for only 11.99. It's not listed by application, only part number. But it is stocked.

Front shaft from a 2000 F150 w/4.6 and 4x4:

It has flanges on both sides that use the 1330 u-joint. The flanges have a 2.5" square bolt circle.

Slip yoke almost fully compressed when installed:

Front "conversion" u-joint w/grease fitting:

(Autozone P/N: 185793, PDQ/Brute Force #1-0134. $11.99)

Front driveshaft to torsion bar cross member clearance, looking aft:

Haven't taken her out yet, stupid grease gun coupler busted, and the home run derby is on. :fire:

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

This past weekend I drove down to Delaware to visit the Girlfriend, putting about 900 miles on the swap with no front driveshaft.

- I acheived 18.5 mpg travelling in highway and some stop and go. (Message center said 19.5 mpg). It's fantastic to be getting this kind of milage, while running 31" AT KO tires at 38psi. This case, plus the Torque Monster headers are putting me on track beat Aldive, with an off-road ready V8.

- Performance is fantastic, much more responsive and free revving. Turning is much easier, too.

- The one downside was rain: the old AWD system was far better for control and handing on slippery surfaces. Hopefully control trac will correct this issue.

- On the way home, after travelling for 4 hours at 70-75 mph, the 4x4 lights started to flash six times. I pulled over for lunch, and the t-case was pretty hot. Let her cool, and the lights haven't returned. The six-flash code is for speed sensors. I'm wondering if it was temperature related, or the lack of a front shaft that triggered them.

- The remainder of the fluid in the case wasn't too clean, so after the 1000 miles i've put on the case with new, I'll flush it out again. Maybe switch to synthetic fluid, if it's going to run warm.

- The message center is still reading the tank as 21 gallons, so the "gallons until empty" and "miles remaining" functions are off. Since the fuel level sender is resitance based, I'm thinking I can insert a resistor in the line to make the computer read 3 gallons less... It'll be a project.

 

[Heath]

Damn good work Aaron...

 

[bmxking5]

^^Indeed.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Final Costs/Shopping List

Final Costs/Parts List:

Transfer Case
1) BW4406 Transfer Case w/Shift motor: $150 (Junkyard)
Application: 1997-1998 Ford Expedition/Lincoln Navigator.

Rear Driveshaft
2) 1998 Lincoln Navigator Rear Driveshaft: $100 (Junkyard)
Application: 1997-2001 Ford Expedition, Lincoln Navigator with 4wd, 5.4L, air suspention, 2-joint shaft:
2-Optional) New U-Joints: $20

Front Driveshaft
3) 2000 F150 Front Driveshaft: $75 (Junkyard)
Application: 1997-2002 F150 and Expedition with 4wd and 4.6L.
3-Optional) New stock U-Joint for t-case end: $10
4) Conversion U-Joint for pinion end: $10

Gas Tank
5) Explorer Sport 17gal gas tank, fuel pump, and skidplate: $90 (Junkyard)
Application: Your year Explorer. (2DR)
NOTE: If your junkyard is difficult, and won't include the pump free, you can re-use your current pump.

Misc Electronics
6) TOD Relay: $5 9(Junkyard)
7) Shift Relay: $5 (Junkyard)
8) T-Case wiring harness, under driver's seat: $5 (Junkyard)
Application: Your Year Range Explorer (95-97, 98-01).
NOTE: 98-01 trucks might need additional wiring harnesses.

Radio Bezel & 4wd Switch
9) I purchased mine complete with wiper, defrost and fog light switches, but you don't need them: $15 (Junkyard)
Application: Technically all 2nd gen ones interchange. The 95-96 Radio Bezels will work, but the 4wd switch has the wrong label (2wd, 4auto, 4low). The 98+ Radio Bezels will work with earlier trucks, but have a green backlight, not blue.)

GEM Module
10) 1997 4x4 GEM: $30 (Junkyard)
Application: This MUST come from your EXACT year explorer, only from a V6 w/4x4. Both SHOC and OHV V6s used the same GEM, unless you have a 96, then get a 97 GEM.

Misc Shop supplies, sealants and fluids: $25 (est)

Total: $540

 

[section525]

Aaron.. When you say that the GEM must come from the exact same year as your Explorer.. what should I do (if I ever do this swap)? I have a '96 but a '99 front axle. The '96s had the vacuum axle disconnect deal. Is that effected by the GEM or do I not need to worry about it? Could I use a 97?

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Aaron.. When you say that the GEM must come from the exact same year as your Explorer.. what should I do (if I ever do this swap)? I have a '96 but a '99 front axle. The '96s had the vacuum axle disconnect deal. Is that effected by the GEM or do I not need to worry about it? Could I use a 97?

Section,

You'll want to use a 1997 GEM, and with a little luck (and maybe some wiring) it'll work. Ford made major wiring changes between the 97 and 98 model years, but kept the pre-97s mostly the same. Since the GEM controls body functions, you'll need a 96 or 97 GEM.

A 1996 GEM is guaranteed to to work with your wipers, interior lights, etc, and will give you a shift between high range and low range. However, it won't give you 4wd high range, and may throw codes with no front axle disconnect.

I think a 1997 GEM will work out of the box - just plug it in. If it doesn't perhaps simple re-pining of the connectors to the 1997 locations would fix any minor issues.

You'll also want a 1997 Expedition t-case, since you retained the tailshaft VSS.

If all else fails - a manual 4406 would do quite nicely (but it's close to what you have now, only with a smaller gastank).

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

A few final things:

Re-mounted the stock skid plate, and it works ok! The new case is more rearward, so the skidplate doesn't cover all of it - just most. It also hangs a tad lower, so I had to drop the skidplate 3/8" on the driver's side. It barely cleared, the drop gives the drivetrain room to flex without hitting.

Also, I cleaned the t-case speed sensors. There was some gunk, hopefully that was the source of the flashing 4wd lights.

Here is a photo of the 4406's 4wd selector behind the shift motor:

In comparison, here is the shift flange of the BW4405. Notice how the "N" position is in the same position as the 4406's locked 4hi. If I can get my hands on the "neutral tow kit," then I can enable the mechanical locking for 4hi. Currently the setup merely locks the clutch electronically.

 

[r37ribution]

what is this "neutral tow kit"? Adds in 4WD high in the neutral position? How is it installed?

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

what is this "neutral tow kit"? Adds in 4WD high in the neutral position? How is it installed?

The neutral tow kit shifts the t-case into the Neutral position for towing on an Explorer v6. However, in my new t-case, the neutral position is instead 4hi - where a mechanical coupler bypasses the electromagnetic clutch. The 4406 does not have a Neutral.

I currently have 4hi, the same way an Explorer has it - by activating the clutch. The only way I'll ever have an issue with this setup is if I get 35"+ tires, a locker, and the front wheels are totally jammed up.

 

[space_cowboy]

BW4404 to a BW T-5 Trans

Has anybody ever tried to mate a BW 4404 Transfer Case to a BW T-5 Trans?,

Or anybody know a website that might sell the adapters??

Thank you
Chris

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Has anybody ever tried to mate a BW 4404 Transfer Case to a BW T-5 Trans?,

Or anybody know a website that might sell the adapters??

Thank you
Chris

For the T-5, you'd need an Advance Adaptors "T5 to Ford Full Size" piece. Any manual trans from an F150 would work, without adapters.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Ok... need some advice tracking down a problem.

The truck has developed a "rumble" only on decelleration and coast, from 30+ with the front driveshaft installed. It's not a vibration, but almost sounds like a bad bearing.

The u-joints are properly greased, and turn smoothly.

Is there a way to narrow down where this rumble could be coming from?

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Bump...

I've had the truck off-road for the past two Saturdays, first up in northern Vermont, and this past weekend in southern Rhode Island. I can honestly say that having the low range was like getting a new truck. I am able to crawl over obstacles that I required lots of power before, compression braking is improved, tranny temps are lower, and backing up is even better. I can tackle obsticles and trails I wouldn't have before.

Not to mention, highway MPG is fantastic still. With the 2wd, and all my other large mods including the headers, i'm consistanly pulling 18+ mpg. Thank god, with gas prices like these.

As for my front driveshaft rumble, I'm living with it for now. Jesse from High Angle Driveline thinks I might need a CV (double cardan) at the t-case output, but the expense ($290 for a new shaft) isn't worth it, considering the problem is so small.

 

[Joey P]

Reading this, I'malittle confused here about 96 97 98 years. I have a 96, so for this to work for me I need what here? 96 explorer or expedition Gem?, 96 expedition transfer case?, rear driveshaft,? sport gas tank. It's all plug and play for 96 explorer too right? or no?