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Yet another T-Cases to mount to the V8 Thread
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V8BoatBuilder
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Brain fart.... I edited the original post.
Joey P
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Very nice. I may do this anyway. Glad you did all the research and we don't have to now. Let us know how your mileage changes. I currently get 18 with AWD and a light, light right foot.
Nitrous SSC
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So its pretty much bolt in eh?
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"Costs of the swap:
BW4406 Transfer Case w/Shift motor: $150 (Junkyard)
Expedition Driveshaft (4wd,5.4,air suspention): $100 (Junkyard)
Explorer Sport 17gal gas tank, fuel pump, and skidplate: $90 (Junkyard)
TOD Relay, Shift Relay, Radio Bezel w/4wd Switch: $30 (Junkyard)
1997 4x4 GEM: $30 (Junkyard)
New U-Joints: $20
Misc Shop supplies, sealants and fluids: $25 (est)
Front driveshaft: ???
Total w/o front shaft: $425"
with gas prices the way they are you will make that back in the first year! Nicely done.
BW4406 Transfer Case w/Shift motor: $150 (Junkyard)
Expedition Driveshaft (4wd,5.4,air suspention): $100 (Junkyard)
Explorer Sport 17gal gas tank, fuel pump, and skidplate: $90 (Junkyard)
TOD Relay, Shift Relay, Radio Bezel w/4wd Switch: $30 (Junkyard)
1997 4x4 GEM: $30 (Junkyard)
New U-Joints: $20
Misc Shop supplies, sealants and fluids: $25 (est)
Front driveshaft: ???
Total w/o front shaft: $425"
with gas prices the way they are you will make that back in the first year! Nicely done.
V8BoatBuilder
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Nitrous SSC said:
Yes. The only non "bolt-in" part has been drilling 3/8" holes into the frame, and clearancing the t-case/body with the grinder and BFH.
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I am SO tempted to try this swap now instead of waiting on an atlas II... Then I could do my D30 swap...
V8BoatBuilder
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Heath said:
If you are doing a SAS, then you have many more options in t-case selection. One reason I used the 4406 is because the front output will clear the torsion bar x-member. If you are ditching the t-bars, a new x-member can be made to accomodate the NP208. Also, if you ditch the ABS sensors, you lose control-trac.
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Hmmm... Well I'd be okay with not having control trac... Personally I'd prefer to have 2wd, 4hi and 4lo... 2lo would be nice, but not necessary... So knowing that other than an atlas II (my prefrered method) what would you recomend?
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Oh, and I already have a 2" BL that I'm fine with keeping if that helps with clearance issues like it would have on the 4406 swap that you just did...
V8BoatBuilder
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Heath said:
It's tough call...
However, the 4406 dosen't have a 2low option, since the front output is mechanically locked in low range for strong, slip-proof operation.
I would look into the NP208 from an early 80s Bronco or F150. (F150s have slip-yoke rear outputs, broncos have fixed yokes. There's lots of info earlier in the thread) A member was able to squeeze one into his truck without touching the gas tank. You'd need a new cross member for sure, as it's front output is right behind the t-bar x-member. This might be a moot issue, as the 4406's front output is pretty far behind the x-member. Since the IFS input is straight ahead and the diff is fixed in the frame, the driveshaft should fit above the x-member in a stock truck like mine. However, if the shaft needed to angle down to a solid axle with a fair amount of lift and travel, it might hit the current x-member anyway.
Food for thought.
Nitrous SSC
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Well thats the cats ass. I'm gona start getting parts.
V8BoatBuilder
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Joey p. said:
No front shaft yet. If this rain clears up, I'm heading to the junkyard tomorrow to hopefully find something that'll work.
With junkyard shafts selling at $100/ea, I'd rather do that than have a custom one made.
V8BoatBuilder
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Well I have a front shaft....
sort of.
After much scrounging around the junkyard, I found the shaft from a 1997-2002 F150 with the 4.6 is almost perfect. It has two flange-yokes, each with a single u-joint. The flages have the 2.5" square bolt "circle," common to the front output of the 4406 case. The shaft also had an internal slip yoke, for compressability.
With new u-joints in hand, I replaced them both and left off the front flange. I was able to bolt the shaft to the t-case, and have just enough compression in the yoke to slip the front u-joint into the pinion of the D35. There was plenty of clearance around the t-bar x-member, and fair clearance around the transmission. The F150 shaft is wider than the old AWD shaft, but still much smaller than any rear shaft.
However, when I went to bolt down the u-joint straps on the D35, the u-joint was too wide! Turns out, the F150 driveshaft uses "1330" style u-joints (same as old rear d-shaft), while the D35 pinon uses "1310" style joints. Fortunatley, "hybrid" joints are availible.
FWIW, the new rear shaft uses the super heavy duty "1350" u-joints.
sort of.
After much scrounging around the junkyard, I found the shaft from a 1997-2002 F150 with the 4.6 is almost perfect. It has two flange-yokes, each with a single u-joint. The flages have the 2.5" square bolt "circle," common to the front output of the 4406 case. The shaft also had an internal slip yoke, for compressability.
With new u-joints in hand, I replaced them both and left off the front flange. I was able to bolt the shaft to the t-case, and have just enough compression in the yoke to slip the front u-joint into the pinion of the D35. There was plenty of clearance around the t-bar x-member, and fair clearance around the transmission. The F150 shaft is wider than the old AWD shaft, but still much smaller than any rear shaft.
However, when I went to bolt down the u-joint straps on the D35, the u-joint was too wide! Turns out, the F150 driveshaft uses "1330" style u-joints (same as old rear d-shaft), while the D35 pinon uses "1310" style joints. Fortunatley, "hybrid" joints are availible.
FWIW, the new rear shaft uses the super heavy duty "1350" u-joints.
V8BoatBuilder
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So, for those still following:
Where's the best place to get a hybrid u-joint?
Apparently, Autozone does sell them, but they're not in the computer. Lots of Jeepers use these joints when installing the 8.8 into their Wranglers.
It's PDQ/Neapco #: 1-0134
Napa Precition # PUJ353 ($18.49)
Also, the truck is vibration free up to 70mph, but has a small shimmy above that. It's a heck of a lot smoother than before. I'm thinking of shimming the axle 1 degree or so, and seeing what that does. However, I could leave it alone and be totally happy.
In other news, gas miliage is indeed up by a good 2mpg according to the Message Center.
Notice how one "cross" is longer than the other:
Where's the best place to get a hybrid u-joint?
Apparently, Autozone does sell them, but they're not in the computer. Lots of Jeepers use these joints when installing the 8.8 into their Wranglers.
It's PDQ/Neapco #: 1-0134
Napa Precition # PUJ353 ($18.49)
Also, the truck is vibration free up to 70mph, but has a small shimmy above that. It's a heck of a lot smoother than before. I'm thinking of shimming the axle 1 degree or so, and seeing what that does. However, I could leave it alone and be totally happy.
In other news, gas miliage is indeed up by a good 2mpg according to the Message Center.
Notice how one "cross" is longer than the other:
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V8BoatBuilder
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For those who are interested in a manual t-case:
The F150 I pulled the d-shaft from had a manual 4406. Fresh into the yard, it hand't been stripped of its drivetrain, etc.
The case is identical, just no shift motor. The shifter is pretty darn simple, and should bolt to the existing bolt-bosses on the 4r70w's extension housing. All that you gotta do is cut a hole in the floor.
A sport gas tank would still be required, to clear the d-shaft slip yoke.
The F150 I pulled the d-shaft from had a manual 4406. Fresh into the yard, it hand't been stripped of its drivetrain, etc.
The case is identical, just no shift motor. The shifter is pretty darn simple, and should bolt to the existing bolt-bosses on the 4r70w's extension housing. All that you gotta do is cut a hole in the floor.
A sport gas tank would still be required, to clear the d-shaft slip yoke.
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sweetness.
Good luck with the U joint situation.
Why does a IFS truck need a slipyoke ont he front driveshaft? the YT case and pumkin should not move much, only frame flex and drivetrain mounts would allow a little bit of flex correct?
Good luck with the U joint situation.
Why does a IFS truck need a slipyoke ont he front driveshaft? the YT case and pumkin should not move much, only frame flex and drivetrain mounts would allow a little bit of flex correct?
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John_Rock
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What would be the difference between a manual BW1356 and a BW4406??V8BoatBuilder said:For those who are interested in a manual t-case:
The F150 I pulled the d-shaft from had a manual 4406. Fresh into the yard, it hand't been stripped of its drivetrain, etc.
The case is identical, just no shift motor. The shifter is pretty darn simple, and should bolt to the existing bolt-bosses on the 4r70w's extension housing. All that you gotta do is cut a hole in the floor.
A sport gas tank would still be required, to clear the d-shaft slip yoke.
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