Ok, let's try this... trying to help now, but these are going to be for the '94 and so I will generalize as much as I can but just be aware.
Key Off and headlight switch off for this entire procedure. We are doing all of this by breaking connectors and measuring for the short, so you will not be replacing fuses in this procedure. If your probe measures 12V only then you need to do the short detecting light trick like Robert says, and use the connectors I describe below as isolation points. Read this whole post because I edited all over the place and you need to understand the whole thing.
Go to any front bulb, probably the parking on the driver side is easiest. If you test continuity to ground right now, both the brown and black wires should be grounded if you are blowing fuses. The black wire IS ground, but the brown one should be switched 12V+. The best isolation point for this branch is the giant firewall connector near the brake master cylinder, this connector is called C147. Break this connection and see if the brown wire is still grounded. If so, the short is from the firewall forward. Breaking this connection also breaks the supply to the switch, so you will not be blowing fuses with C147 open because it supplies power to the headlight switch (and pretty much everything else in the dashboard). C147 may be difficult to get open, it is the largest jack on the vehicle with the most pins. If you cannot get this connector open, you will have to cut the brown wire on the firewall side to test and then splice it again when you are done. Not a big fan of this, it's just plan B...
Going to the rear, the first isolation point sucks because it is high in the dashboard. So, let's go past that and do an easy one in the back. Open the jack compartment, and look for a connector with a brown wire. The same procedure applies going back with one little twist. Opening this connector (C307) isolates all the back lights EXCEPT the right rear parking light, which... grrr! connects at C307 on the supply side of C307. So, if the firewall connection is open and C307 is open, and you measure ground on the brown wire of the back right bulb, you have a short... somewhere between the bulb socket and the headlight switch.
I'm sorry this is convoluted, it is like trying to describe a picture with words, and I am pushing something personally to get this information posted tonight. This information is bridged across many pages of the schematic so it's not something easily scanned. I will be hoping you find it in the front, it is the easy fix. And giving you just enough information to confuse, I'm sorry to say I will have limited internet access from now until Thursday. If there are quick yes/no's, I can help. For a what next question, I will probably have to defer until then.
Best of luck, I'll be hoping you find it early.
Also, if you were to set up the short detector Robert talks about, then you would just do what he said, turn on the lights and break/make the above connections. Augh! except you can't use the firewall connector as an isolation point because it supplies voltage to the switch, so with the short detector, you must cut the brown wire to isolate the front. If the short detecting light goes out, you are following the short. If your connectivity tester detects 12V, you can put it where the fuse goes. If you can't measure resistance, then the short detector is how you need to go. This is all pretty straight forward logic, once you know where the connectors are to isolate things. The wire that is shorted is the brown one, if it is like the '94.
Gotta go, hope this makes a tiny bit of sense.
~Phil