Thanks to zjrog
I just went through this entire process on my 2005 4.0 explorer and thanks to zjrog experiences, I went a different route to remove and re-torque the harmonic balancer bolt. At the local ACE, I bought a piece of 3 inch by 1/8 th thick by 3 foot long flat stock and drilled an 1.5 inch hole near the end and two 3/8 holes 2.5 inches apart spaced evenly about the large hole. I bought M8-1.5 by 400 mm bolts, used some nuts and washers as spacers and secured the flat stock to the end of the old balancer using the puller holes. This gave me a long lever that came out of the hood of the car and I just put my breaker bar with a slight extension through the hole in the flat stock and it came off easy. I repeated the procedure with the new balancer and the flat stock actually was stopped by the battery and then torqued to yield the new bolt. Worked fine. I left the radiator in because it is interlocked with the supplemental cooler and condensor coil so an impact gun was not an option and I opted out of removing the starter because I was on my own with no one to hold the flywheel lock. I also could not use a hammer to re-install so I used the suggestion of a reverse puller to draw it back in with the tight space. I could not find running thread for M12 - 1.5 without special order and very expensive so I cut the head off the old balancer bolt, had an extension welded on of 3/8" USS running thread (total length 9 inches) and used the puller yoke in reverse.
Thanks to zjrog for sharing his painful experience!! It really helped me from going down a bad road.
PS, the more I talked to people, I believe that Ford has a real design problem with the old balancer design. I bought Ford replacement parts because the new Ford design appears much different and stronger verses buying the aftermarket for $100.00 less - grief just not worth it.