2002 Explorer V6 4.0 Engine Seized Up

[D Hook]

You want PenetraTING Oil.

Penetration Oil is what the doc uses to work on YOUR rear end after you turn 50 y.o. Usually right after you hear the snap of the glove and right before you hear, "Now you're going to feel a little pressure".

 

[ford slave]

very funny Hook!!!

Hi you all! this is all some very good reading for i am about to pull out the used engine i installed about a week ago,set her on a stand and pop her open see whats my clacking noise.Good going MoonRocky!Much luck to you.

 

[MoonRocky]

Thanks D HOOK,

You saved me the $35 copay, I will instead head on over to the WALMART for the
PenetraTING Oil. LOL

 

[MoonRocky]

Soak Day 1

I have purchased the P Oil and gave each cylinder a good shot. Now Ill wait till later today and repeat the action.

I thought I would revisit some other issues I am having with some other parts that I already took off.

Lets start with the fan:

This is what I have:

I took a look at DALE'S HELPFULL LINKS

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281137

POST #11 shows a special tool. I dont have that tool and still do not understand the way it comes off. I took the fan pulley and the water pump off intact as one unit. But now want to disassemble for cleaning and eventually reinstalling. Can this be explained more?

Lets start with that. I will be soaking the cylinders for at least 3 days! Which gives me time to work on a couple other mystries.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Fan clutch tool

The lower piece in the photo above spans two of the small bolt heads in two directions. A breaker bar is inserted in the lower piece square opening for leverage.

The upper piece fits the large nut. If more leverage is needed the upper piece can also be fitted with a breaker bar.

In the past when I did not have the tool set I used a box wrench fitted to one of the small bolt heads and held the wrench arm against another bolt head to keep the pulley from moving. I used a 15 inch adjustable open end wrench on the large nut.

 

[mikbor1]

I wrapped the old belt around the pulley then clamped the pulley from the back with a vice grip--Then used a pipe wrench to free the fan--The vice grip acts as a "stop" when it catches on the pump--

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

Warning- I rented the fan clutch removal tool from Autozone and Oreileys and neither of their tools fit the snout of the the fan clutch. I had to improvise with some very large pliers.

 

[MoonRocky]

Soak Day Two

Soaked each cylinder with the penetrating oil twice today.

The fan is still giving me problems. But have not put much effort in it.

The third day approaches. Half a can left. Two more doses on the schedule.

 

[OneLever]

Footnote

Been following this interesting thread even though I don't have this engine. If you have a caliper measure the span across the Water pulley bolts, and the size of the Fan clutch nut. When I got my fan clutch tools from autozone I had to rent two separate kits. Because one had a wrench that fit the pulley and one had a wrench that fit the nut.

Something to note as well: When you reattach the Fan clutch nut you want to do so to the proper torque right? If you attach your torque wrench to a specialty wrench you are increasing the length of its lever arm. Torque = Distance x Force. So if you turn it to 80 ft-lb on your torque wrench readout it will actually be higher, maybe 92 ft-lb for example. In order to correct for this you need to measure the distance between the pivot points on your torque wrench, and then how much distance is added by the specialty wrenches.

Figure out how much force needs to be applied at the end of the specialty wrench to give the correct torque. Then find out what "torque" readout on the torque wrench is needed to provide that force at its endpoint. The larger your specialty wrenches the bigger the effect. All that being said I have just tightened it by feel before.

 

[MoonRocky]

Soak Day Three and Four

Almost 3/4 of the can is gone. It should be good and penetrated.

Time to get the the the tools and attempt to use the cam bolt for turning.
With the torx numbers in mind I tried to turn in both directions, No luck that engine is just not willing to move in either direction. Any more force on that bolt, and I expect it will spin right off.

The Fan needs a special tool
The Bell Housing bolts need a ratchet wrench
The Bell Housing & Down Pipes need a super long extension and wobble joints


Still the attempt to remove this engine is underway again. The number of bolts remaining is dwindling.

4 bolts on two exhaust down pipes
2 starter bolts
8 bell housing bolts
3 motor mount bolts


Can I cheat and remove the exhaust manifold bolts and leave it for after the engine is removed. Is there enough play in the pipes to do that?


Okay now what?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Exhaust manifolds can stay

There is no need to remove the exhaust manifolds to pull the engine. Many members attach chains around the manifolds to lift the engine.

There is still a chance that the engine will not have to come out. When you rock the camshaft sprocket back and forth is there any sign of crankshaft movement?

I suggest that you remove the starter to make sure it is not jammed against the ring gear on the flex plate.

 

[MoonRocky]

Still A Chance?

Interesting to hear there may still be hope.

I removed the two 13mm bolts to the bell housing and the one 13mm electrical connection and the 10 mm electrical connector.
I removed the starter and set it aside.

While removing th upper starter bolt, tool failure occurred. The 13 mm socket blew apart.

It was from TAIWAN

Now which should be the replacement?

TAIWAN or CHINA

Tried again to use the cam bolt for turning and could not get any movement at all on the crank.
The chains seemed to move to the tension and then stops

 

[waskly]

Interesting to hear there may still be hope.

I removed the two 13mm bolts to the bell housing and the one 13mm electrical connection and the 10 mm electrical connector.
I removed the starter and set it aside.

While removing th upper starter bolt, tool failure occurred. The 13 mm socket blew apart.

It was from TAIWAN

Now which should be the replacement?

TAIWAN or CHINA

Tried again to use the cam bolt for turning and could not get any movement at all on the crank.
The chains seemed to move to the tension and then stops

try not to use 12 pt sockets, esp not made in the u.s.a. you will be buying a tap/die and bolt extractors. they have a very high rate of making bolts round.

 

[OneLever]

Craftsman six point. Good quality and lifetime replacement no questions asked.

 

[waskly]

Craftsman six point. Good quality and lifetime replacement no questions asked.

sockets yes, there ratchets are knuckle breakers. pos ratchets....

 

[MoonRocky]

Tool Replacement

The broken socket must be replaced. In this environment the replacement must be correctly suited for that job at hand.

I purchased the Craftsman 6 Pt 3/8 drive 13MM

While I was at Sears I had them replace two 3/8" drive ratchets and one 1/2" drive ratchet. All three were broken or acting up.

What about there still being some way of repair before removal?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Be Patient!

Unless you can get the crankshaft to rotate the engine will have to be pulled. The lower oil pan should be removed to check for guide pieces in the pan and oil pick up tube screen. However, as was previously posted, if you can't rotate the flexplate to remove the torque converter nuts then the engine and torque converter will have to come out together. My suggestion is to be patient. The engine has been sitting for 5 months with the plugs out. If you have a breaker bar (no ratchet) then you rock the camshaft retaining bolt back and forth to help the penetrating oil work its way past the piston rings. Even if you have the engine out and on a stand you'll still need to find a way to free the rings from the cylinder walls if that's what's preventing rotation.

 

[MoonRocky]

Getting Colder

I have been trying the last couple days turning the cam shaft bolt in both directions hoping to see any movement in the crank. It just wont show me a any love. Could the crank be broke? When I removed the broken pieces of the chain guide, it was with hope that it was what was jamming up the works. After some thought, I believe it wasn't jammed in there enough to stop the engine from turning over. Could there be a piece somewhere else that is holding the works stationary?

The weather here in Missouri is getting colder. If the engine has to come out, the next couple weeks should be the time.

After reading more post here at EXPLORERFOURM.COM, I have to get some questions answered. The exhaust down pipe bolts must come off or can I cut them some how?
I have gathered up the 36" extension and wobble joint for removal of the bell housing bolts. This may sound dumb, but how many bolts am I dealing with? I think its eight. Is there another tool for assisting in this process?
I will be renting a engine lift from the local rental place for $20. The first thing, I am concerned as to what width of the legs on the lift. Which will determine how to jack it up. My Explorer is now sitting on a slight incline(Passenger-side is higher than the driver-side). That worked until now for all the top work. I will move it to a flat area and jack it up to get the bolts out. I must move it after the engine is removed. What are the concerns of transmission support?

Can the removal of bolts and the removal of the engine be done in 1 an 1/2 days? I have to line up some help, promise them the world, and feed them.
And then move the Explorer back to its original location.

How much will this engine weigh? How many guys do I need?

I am trying to be patient. The weather wont give me all the time I think Ill need. Thanks a million to STREETROD for bringing me along. Your other posts are invaluable.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Engine removal preparations

I have been trying the last couple days turning the cam shaft bolt in both directions hoping to see any movement in the crank. It just wont show me a any love. Could the crank be broke? When I removed the broken pieces of the chain guide, it was with hope that it was what was jamming up the works. After some thought, I believe it wasn't jammed in there enough to stop the engine from turning over. Could there be a piece somewhere else that is holding the works stationary?

It's possible that other pieces are wedged elsewhere that you can't see. It's also possible the timing was lost and there's a piston jammed against a valve. Or maybe more than the rings are rusted.

The weather here in Missouri is getting colder. If the engine has to come out, the next couple weeks should be the time.

After reading more post here at EXPLORERFOURM.COM, I have to get some questions answered. The exhaust down pipe bolts must come off or can I cut them some how?
I have gathered up the 36" extension and wobble joint for removal of the bell housing bolts. This may sound dumb, but how many bolts am I dealing with? I think its eight. Is there another tool for assisting in this process?
I will be renting a engine lift from the local rental place for $20. The first thing, I am concerned as to what width of the legs on the lift. Which will determine how to jack it up. My Explorer is now sitting on a slight incline(Passenger-side is higher than the driver-side). That worked until now for all the top work. I will move it to a flat area and jack it up to get the bolts out. I must move it after the engine is removed. What are the concerns of transmission support?

Can the removal of bolts and the removal of the engine be done in 1 an 1/2 days? I have to line up some help, promise them the world, and feed them.

Get as much done as possible before renting the crane and having your friends over to help.

1 SOHC V6 Engine Removal Procedure

You'll have to cut off the exhaust downpipe bolts if you can't loosen them. Leave as much of the shaft as possible for later extraction attempts.

You can remove the upper 4 engine to transmission bolts before using the crane or supporting the transmission. The weight of the engine and transmission is downward and the 4 lower bolts will hold the engine and trans in place. Since the torque converter will be coming out with the engine, it is important to keep the axis of the engine aligned with the axis of the transmission during engine removal. Since you have to move the vehicle after engine removal, you'll have to support the transmission with a chain or pipe.

And then move the Explorer back to its original location.

How much will this engine weigh? How many guys do I need?

I am trying to be patient. The weather wont give me all the time I think Ill need. Thanks a million to STREETROD for bringing me along. Your other posts are invaluable.

The engine without what you've already removed is probably 300 lbs. Two helpers should be plenty. More than that and you'll lose control of what's happening and somebody could get hurt or something could get damaged.

 

[ford slave]

well now i am troubled! i removed the used engine i purchased because of a loud rattle to check and replace the timming chains as needed.with valve covers removed and timming cover removed there is no signs of anything wrong with guides or any component pertaning to the timming.thought i had engine at tdc before i set it on the stand,noticed it wasn't turned it towards 0 degree it would jump right past it,tried again it got stuck between 0 and 10 degree marks,wont go forward nor back.Huhhh!What The!!!by the way,this engine is the cleanest i've seen inside.need help...did not want to take off the heads.in my understanding the only thing that could jam an engine like that is a piston jammed in the cylinder or a valve jammed in the cylinder.valves are all in place and the engine was spinning just fine???????help,helpp