4.6L Engine Removal

[JW]

A while back I posted about a loss of oil pressure. At that same time I had blown timing chain guides and one damaged tensioner, all of which has been replaced. That didn't resolve the pressure issue, and I've since confirmed the pressure really is low with a real gauge (20 PSI cold, 10 PSI warm at idle, and drops to almost nothing above idle). So I'm thinking that either the oil pump is clogged with debris from the timing chain guides, or the pump is blown, or worst case I have blown bearings somewhere. The engine gets a bit noisy in the top end when the pressure is down, but that's it.

I don't see a way to pull the oil pan to get to the pump with the engine in the truck, so I'm planning to remove it. I've pulled engines before but wanted to see if there are any special considerations for this application. Also, I'd like recommendations on where to attach the hoist's chains to the block. Thanks!

 

[RKelly2233]

semi off topic question.... is the crown vic v8 the same as the explorer v8? Feel like it might be an easy find for you in that case as there are **** tons of vics out there.. You'll already have the engine out ready for a swap... But then I guess your dumping more $$ into another engine.

Was gonna buy a 04 Limited V8 that had a bad oil pump (for only $1500). my mechanic said not too- cause he didn't wanna do the work... hahhaa. but to your question- no i have no clue... sorry

 

[2002GreyHD150]

2002-'05 2v 4.6 for the Exp/Monty is an all aluminum block/heads. All other 2v 4.6 mod motors are iron block/alum heads. Aka 80lbs heavier. Everything else, including cam profiles, are identical. The only difference in hp/T is in the PCM programming & exhaust config.

Pulling the 4.6 is absolutely no different than any engine. Just more stuff to label and disconnect. And way less room to get to stuff.

Tricks:
1. Think far away instead of right up on the bolt. Extensions are your friend. Especially on the bell housing bolts and P/S and A/c Pumps.

2. Leave the A/C and P/S in the truck, drop them off the engine and leave them in place.

3. Starter: when pulling it again use extensions. Especially on the top bolt.

4. Masking tape and a sharpie are your friend. LABEL everything.

5. Take the engine harness with the engine as a unit.

6. Take the main engine and Alt harnesses with the engine.

7. 02 sensor harnesses: on the driver's side you pull it UP to disconnect it. On the passenger side you pull it down.

8. Engine mounts: DRiver's side remove the through bolt leave the mount on the frame. Pass side: undo the bolts through the frame take the entire mount with the engine.

9. Pulling the Radiator is a pain in the ass. Its called a "Cooling module" from Ford. The Rad, A/C condensor, & trans cooler are assembled together than put on the truck. You have to separate them to get the Rad out. I left the A/C intact (charged) and the trans cooler as well. When I reinstalled them, I flipped the location/direction of the clips so that you can bolt them together like a normal human would.

10. Keep the Vacuum connections on the engine, simply park the various pick up points over on the passenger side and separate there.

11. Don't forget the ground strap on the pass side or the main engine ground on the P/S pump top rear mount. Easily accessed through the wheel well.

Rob

 

[JW]

Thanks! Does the transmission need to be pulled back from the engine, or is there enough room to move the engine forward to free it from the input shaft?

 

[2002GreyHD150]

no need to touch the trans except the converter to fllywheel bolts.

Rob

 

[JW]

Thanks again, Rob! More questions as I dive into it this weekend.

 

[JW]

OK, moving along nicely. The engine is about ready to come out. Just got the flexplate nuts off, and now I want to verify remaining procedures...

1) Support the front of the transmission with a jack.
2) Remove the bellhousing bolts.
3) Remove the engine mounts as stated above.
4) Attach the lift, and lift the engine while supporting the front of the transmission.
5) Once the engine is clear of the frame, move it forward to separate it from the transmission.

 

[jsotomar]

4.6L Engine removal: Carb Lift Plate or Hoist Leveler?

I need a little help. I have a 02 Explorer XLT 4.6L. I've already taken off all connections to engine, and last things to do is remove engine from tranny and motor mounts, etc.

My question is where did you lift the engine from? There are no lifting eyes on the block, and I don't want to spend over $50 just to get the engine out. I went to Advanced Auto Parts, and bought a universal lift plate ($10), but I would need to mount this to the 4 Carb holes on the Intake, but i think it might brake the plastic, or mess up the threads.

Universal Lift Plate:
http://www.northernautoparts.com/images/Uploaded/Performance_Tool/PerformanceToolUniversalEngineLiftPlate.jpg

Another option was to buy a Hoist Leveler instead.
Or just use some grade 8 bolts for chain to block/head

What do you think?

Pics would help alot if you have some
Thanks!

OK, moving along nicely. The engine is about ready to come out. Just got the flexplate nuts off, and now I want to verify remaining procedures...

1) Support the front of the transmission with a jack.
2) Remove the bellhousing bolts.
3) Remove the engine mounts as stated above.
4) Attach the lift, and lift the engine while supporting the front of the transmission.
5) Once the engine is clear of the frame, move it forward to separate it from the transmission.

 

[JW]

I put two bolts in the tops of the heads (where the intake bolts on - one at the front of the driver's side, one at the back of the passenger's side), and attached the crane there. I used a heavy-duty ratchet strap (the yellow 2" wide one, attached to the crane's hook. Use bolts other than what holds the intake, because they'll get damaged a bit. I got grade 8 metric bolts, but don't recall what the size was. You'll want a couple of washers in different sizes as well.

Other stuff...

1) Did you pull the radiator, OR remove the accessories/pulleys from the engine? One of those will need to be done. You can get the engine in and out with the radiator in and the balancer still attached, but it's a VERY tight squeeze. If you haven't done either, pulling the radiator, while leaving the trans cooler and A/C condenser in place, is also very difficult. It's best to just pull the balancer.

2) When separating from the trans, you'll want a jack under the trans so you can lift it up concurrent with the engine. It'll go pretty high...

3) When reinstalling, you'll want something attached near the bottom front of the engine, to allow you to raise the front higher. It requires a fair bit of acrobatics to clear the mounts while lining up the four flexplate bolts.

More tips and info in this thread - http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=362970

 

[jsotomar]

Yes, removed radiator and cooler behind it. Also pulled ac condensor, AC & cooler line from firewall and radiator

I will take a trip to HomeDepot today and see what they have.

Thanks for the help, couldn't get a straight answer anywhere!

 

[JW]

Happy to help! The whole thing is still burned into my brain like the bad dream that it was. Don't forget to take one of your intake bolts to test on the little bolt size checker they have in the hardware aisle.

 

[jsotomar]

Will do...Thanks!

 

[eeprete]

Sorry to bump an old thread, does one have to remove the crank dampner when removing the engine? I have everything but mounts set, figured I will pull that morning of, which I'm hoping for next Sat.