BW1350 and front driveshaft question | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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BW1350 and front driveshaft question

renegade1

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 17, 2010
Messages
110
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City, State
Peachtree City Georgia
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 explorer sport
Ok, so in doing my 4x4 conversion I have the factory d35 front end however I could not find a manual shift 1354 t-case ANYWHERE in my budget. I did however grab a 1350 manual shift. I had a spare front driveshaft from a BII that I had shortened 3 inches and balanced at a shop and it all bolts up. 4x4 conversion done, and its so much nicer offroad now! Then... the fun... get on the interstate. drives fine... then 60 mph and up I get crazy front end vibration. That's when I remember I forgot to check the front pinion to transfer case angle. low and behold the front diff is pointing right at the transfer case. Heres the question - does anyone know of a good way to lower the pinion angle down a tad on the stock IFS?
 



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You might be able to add some shims to the rear mounting point on the drivers side of the frame to gain some angle.

I don't mean to add to your project but this would be a great time to convert to lockouts like the 98 Rangers had so that you can stop the drive shaft and CVs from spinning at all, that should improve fuel mileage as well. It is a lot of parts to change though.
 






ive seriously considered that option... just don't know if I wanna spend the money on locking hubs right now
 






Maybe go back to the shop that did the driveshaft and get their advice?
I thought in cases where the driveshaft is in line with the pinion, the fix was a double cardan joint. But you may already have one, due to it being a 1350? Did your BII driveshaft come off a BII that had a 1350, or a 1354?
 






Did your BII driveshaft come off a BII that had a 1350, or a 1354?

The BIIs that I saw all seemed to have a double cardan in the back, single in the front. (but they do run the same U joints so I could add in the double cardan setup from the rear - id just have to get the shaft shortened again)

- Im thinking, after looking into it, your 98 ranger setup may be the way to go! Itd cost me ~150 to get the driveshaft made a double cardan, and I don't even know if thatd work for sure, so I would be better spending a little more to do the locking hubs deal. Now im curious... would the hub locks off the IFS fit a solid axle? SAS is in the future for this truck after college... and if the solid axle I scavenge runs 27 spline shafts as well this may be a worthwhile upgrade!
 






The BIIs that I saw all seemed to have a double cardan in the back, single in the front. (but they do run the same U joints so I could add in the double cardan setup from the rear - id just have to get the shaft shortened again)

- Im thinking, after looking into it, your 98 ranger setup may be the way to go! Itd cost me ~150 to get the driveshaft made a double cardan, and I don't even know if thatd work for sure, so I would be better spending a little more to do the locking hubs deal. Now im curious... would the hub locks off the IFS fit a solid axle? SAS is in the future for this truck after college... and if the solid axle I scavenge runs 27 spline shafts as well this may be a worthwhile upgrade!

There is a guy swapping a Dana 30 into a sport trac in the off road projects section that machined the D30 knuckles to accept the Ranger style unit bearings so it should be possible but maybe uncharted territory. However if you are going to the trouble of the SAS why skimp on hubs, go D44. Just my opinion.
 






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