Air conditioning issues remaining after replacing blend door actuator

[Soylent_Joe]

Hello! Yesterday I replaced the blend door actuator in my Ex, the old one had the clicking thing going on when you changed the temperature dial. By following this guide the operation was a success - I didn't break anything and now I can change the temp!

Unfortunately, what I thought was a single issue turns out to have two parts. The other problem that I thought was going to be fixed by changing out the actuator is with the air direction. The air always blows the same ways, not responding to moving the dial (the far right dial) to floor, head and floor, defrost, or anything. The fan speed responds fine. But, at full blast it's real loud but not a whole lot of air is coming out of anywhere. At low speed the amount of air coming out of the face vents is pitiful.

Does anyone have any idea where the problem may lie with this? I'm trying to get the truck ready for a road trip out west beginning in a couple weeks so it would be awesome to have proper A/C airflow.

 

[icepickjazz]

Check these posts. Most likely air recirculation door broke and blocked the air.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284042&highlight=vent+door
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316624

You can also replace the broken part, but you need to take the dash loose. I did it on my 04 and it wasn't that hard. See http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/08/2003-ford-explorer-ac-not-cold-enough/ Replacement part is the fresh air door assembly is needed not just the door and it is only available at the Ford dealer. For Ford Explorer and Mercury Mountaineer 2002, 2003, 2004 & 2005 the part # is 1L2Z18B259AC.

 

[Reklaw]

Since this is a newer thread I had to post.

I replaced the blend door motor back in the fall right after I got my Explorer.
Then I realized my air flow was real bad and by the help of this forum I realized the fresh air door had fallen and blocked the air flow so I opened up the box and just pulled it out for the winter. Of course after I did that I realized that the direction was not changing and I found the actuator on the passenger side that moves that "door" and it was broken off so I glued some plastic on and used a bolt and fixed it. The air was still not being directed as it was supposed to and I realized there was another actuator on the drivers side. I got up in there and figured out that the "door" was broke off inside the box. I let that go for the winter and didn't have any real problems. Now it's starting to hit the 80s in Pennsylvania and my air is not cooling very well. I know part of it could be because I'm always pulling in fresh air and I have to replace the fresh air door. But anyway, the real reason I'm posting.

When looking at the diagrams on fordparts.com I notice that what I have in my 2004 XLS matches the diagrams for dual zone auto temp and I have manual controls in mine. Specifically what I mean is on the diagrams for the manual it looks like the blower sits to the left and the ductwork goes to the right to connect to the plenum but for dual zone auto it looks opposite like the blower sits far right and ductwork goes left to the plenum(that's they way mine is).

So, has anyone else noticed this? And what exactly defines dual zone? I mean of course I have the air blowing through the center console to the back but I don't have auto temp controls.

 

[icepickjazz]

And what exactly defines dual zone?

Dual zone allows for separate temperature controls for the driver and passenger. I've noticed some of the parts sites show all possible part options and are not always vehicle specific. Are you filtering based on your VIN?

 

[Number4]

The issue you are having is caused by the air diverter flap which is behind the stereo.

If you lower the glove box and look up toward where the radio is, you'll see a vacuum actuator. Move the vent selector dial and you'll see it move in and out. Only it's no longer attached to the flap. The actuator over extends and breaks the connection point.

Dash removal is your only option.

 

[Soylent_Joe]

The issue you are having is caused by the air diverter flap which is behind the stereo.

If you lower the glove box and look up toward where the radio is, you'll see a vacuum actuator. Move the vent selector dial and you'll see it move in and out. Only it's no longer attached to the flap. The actuator over extends and breaks the connection point.

Dash removal is your only option.

The guide for the half-fix that icepickjazz posted actually worked fine. There was no way I was trying for the whole dash. However, grabbing the broken door out of the black box doohickey behind the dash compartment was a lot harder than it looked. Even after having it pryed oped with some spudger things on both sides I about tore up my hand trying to pull the thing out. Also, I could never find where to tape up the outside air intake (there was just nothing where they described) so it pulls outside air all the time which is no big deal unless you're driving through those cow fields out in Texas, haha.

 

[Number4]

Also, I could never find where to tape up the outside air intake (there was just nothing where they described) so it pulls outside air all the time which is no big deal unless you're driving through those cow fields out in Texas, haha.

Or behind Cobb County busses in Atlanta stuck in rush hour traffic on 75. Seriously! How does the state get away with busses that billow out clouds of black smoke that engulfs entire cars?

Sooner than later I'm going to have to block off the fresh air inlet.