New Transfer Case or New Car?

[mranderson214]

Hello Everyone,

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this situation. So I have a 2002 Explorer XLT, V6, and just about 200,500 miles.

Recently I started having trouble with my transfer case and the transmission shop says I need a new transfer case because the "spline?" inside of it is worn down. The repair cost is $1,200 for a remanufactured transfer case with a 1 year/12,000 mile warranty.

I've had the truck for over 6 years now, and by this point I know it inside and out. It's been more than good to me. I've been up to date on all maintenance: oil changes, transmission fluid changes etc. I've replaced brakes, shocks/springs, tires, wheel bearings, sway bar links, tie rods, thermostat housing.. and the list goes on. By this point the only problems I have with the truck are the issue with the transfer case and the common issue where the fuel gauge randomly drops to E and recovers itself automatically (or after restarting the engine). It's showing its age a little bit with some mild rust in some places (mostly unnoticeable).

Currently, I can't necessarily afford to go buy a brand new car, but I know this car isn't going to last me forever. What are some of your opinions.. Should I invest the 1,200 to have a new transfer case put in, or try to invest in a new car? I kind of know which one I'm leaning towards, but would like some input from some forum members. Thanks!

 

[Mesozoic]

I mean, it's a Ford, so why can't it last forever? I've got several old Fords, including one that is 45 years old that I still rag on.

I would find a junkyard t-case in good shape and swap it in. Might cost you between $100-250, hopefully. A reman unit should be around $1200, but $350 of that is core charge so you get that back with your old one.

 

[4X4Bauer]

Assuming you haven't already, you've got the engine and transmission to worry about. There's always the possibility of head gasket failure, and then the infamous timing chain guide going bad. Look at the rust on your car. Get under it and look at the rust on the body, then the frame. Frame rust is easy to take care of, but body rust is different. Eventually it'll eat away at the metal. Another option is finding a low mileage, rust free explorer with a blown engine/tranny and taking all of your good parts and putting it on there. Just an idea.

 

[mranderson214]

I mean, it's a Ford, so why can't it last forever? I've got several old Fords, including one that is 45 years old that I still rag on.

I would find a junkyard t-case in good shape and swap it in. Might cost you between $100-250, hopefully. A reman unit should be around $1200, but $350 of that is core charge so you get that back with your old one.

Thanks for the advice. That's good that you have a 45 year old Ford! I'm not sure if the $1,200 was with or without the core but I'll inquire about that. I'm not sure of many junkyards around me (Buffalo, NY), but I'll ask around too. Thanks!!

 

[mranderson214]

Assuming you haven't already, you've got the engine and transmission to worry about. There's always the possibility of head gasket failure, and then the infamous timing chain guide going bad. Look at the rust on your car. Get under it and look at the rust on the body, then the frame. Frame rust is easy to take care of, but body rust is different. Eventually it'll eat away at the metal. Another option is finding a low mileage, rust free explorer with a blown engine/tranny and taking all of your good parts and putting it on there. Just an idea.

Thanks for the reply. If I could get another year or two out of this car I'd be grateful, and I think it'll make it too honestly. Most of my rust is under the car/frame. I think this is due to a combination of age and the road salts used during the ridiculous winters where I am. The body rust is minimal; you wouldn't even notice it unless you were intentionally looking for it. Just a few little patches here and there in somewhat hidden locations.

I was told by two transmission shops that the transmission is in great shape. I had the car for 6 years and got it used, so I'm not sure if the person before me might've put in a new transmission at some point; or if I still have the original one. The engine, well it's still good. It gets tuned regularly and oil changed etc. idles smooth, drives smooth and still fast for a truck that's over 13 years old with 200K.

 

[Mesozoic]

Thanks for the reply. If I could get another year or two out of this car I'd be grateful, and I think it'll make it too honestly. Most of my rust is under the car/frame. I think this is due to a combination of age and the road salts used during the ridiculous winters where I am. The body rust is minimal; you wouldn't even notice it unless you were intentionally looking for it. Just a few little patches here and there in somewhat hidden locations.

I was told by two transmission shops that the transmission is in great shape. I had the car for 6 years and got it used, so I'm not sure if the person before me might've put in a new transmission at some point; or if I still have the original one. The engine, well it's still good. It gets tuned regularly and oil changed etc. idles smooth, drives smooth and still fast for a truck that's over 13 years old with 200K.

It's almost always more cost effective to stick with what you got and repair it than replace it with another used vehicle. A used vehicle is simply wrought with potential issues that haven't surfaced yet.

 

[boominXplorer]

Does it still drive? What are the symptoms you are having. If its an AWD truck just pull the front driveshaft.

 

[mranderson214]

It's almost always more cost effective to stick with what you got and repair it than replace it with another used vehicle. A used vehicle is simply wrought with potential issues that haven't surfaced yet.

Exactly. At this point, I'd rather stick with what I know than to get something else that may be even worse. I know what I've done to this car, but idk what was done to the other used cars out there for sale.

 

[mranderson214]

Does it still drive? What are the symptoms you are having. If its an AWD truck just pull the front driveshaft.

Thanks for the reply.

Yeah, it still drives.

Its 4x4. Basically if I go above 50mph or so (5th gear?), when I let off the gas to slow down, or apply the brakes; 75% of the time I'll get a loud drilling sound from what appears to be the transfer case. Occasionally this sound is accompanied with a surging of the speedometer and tachometer which will both dip and then recover within a matter of 1-2 seconds. I usually can stop the sound/symptoms by putting it in Neutral to slow down, or applying the gas again to speed back up. Very rarely, if I shift into Reverse, I'll get that same drilling sound and the car wont move. This is usually resolved by shifting into any other gear (P,N or D) and back into Reverse.

Other than this, the car drives extremely smooth around the city if I keep it to 40mph or less.

 

[Mesozoic]

Thanks for the reply.

Yeah, it still drives.

Its 4x4. Basically if I go above 50mph or so (5th gear?), when I let off the gas to slow down, or apply the brakes; 75% of the time I'll get a loud drilling sound from what appears to be the transfer case. Occasionally this sound is accompanied with a surging of the speedometer and tachometer which will both dip and then recover within a matter of 1-2 seconds. I usually can stop the sound/symptoms by putting it in Neutral to slow down, or applying the gas again to speed back up. Very rarely, if I shift into Reverse, I'll get that same drilling sound and the car wont move. This is usually resolved by shifting into any other gear (P,N or D) and back into Reverse.

Other than this, the car drives extremely smooth around the city if I keep it to 40mph or less.

I'm in agreement with the idea of pulling the front driveshaft. I would at least do that to see if the noise diminishes/goes away. The local junkyards should be able to source you a t-case in good condition as well. I used to live in Troy, NY during my college years and found loads of junkyards with all kinds of gems sitting out there for dirt cheap!

 

[mranderson214]

I'm in agreement with the idea of pulling the front driveshaft. I would at least do that to see if the noise diminishes/goes away. The local junkyards should be able to source you a t-case in good condition as well. I used to live in Troy, NY during my college years and found loads of junkyards with all kinds of gems sitting out there for dirt cheap!

Thanks for the tip. Honestly, I know a decent amount about cars but the transmission/transfer case/drivetrain are the things I know the least about. Is changing the front drive-shaft usually cheaper? And if that's connected to the t-case, do you think that will take care of the issue of that "spline?" as well?

 

[Mesozoic]

Thanks for the tip. Honestly, I know a decent amount about cars but the transmission/transfer case/drivetrain are the things I know the least about. Is changing the front drive-shaft usually cheaper? And if that's connected to the t-case, do you think that will take care of the issue of that "spline?" as well?

The transfer case output is usually a splined shaft with seal around it's perimeter and the driveshaft is typically a female yoke that slides onto the output shaft of the t-case. If the output shaft is sheared or splines distorted, I would definitely just find another t-case from the junkyard, but your front driveshaft will need to have the yoke replaced. In that case it's critical to find a reputable driveline shop in the area that can weld and balance a new one on for you. A new driveshaft would also work, or even a junkyard unit in a pinch. I would probably opt to pull the front shaft out and see how things roll at that point. You may be able to drive with RWD, which will yield better fuel economy in any case.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

I agree with the above. Get a nice used case from a junkyard for under 300 bucks and toss that in.

 

[mranderson214]

The transfer case output is usually a splined shaft with seal around it's perimeter and the driveshaft is typically a female yoke that slides onto the output shaft of the t-case. If the output shaft is sheared or splines distorted, I would definitely just find another t-case from the junkyard, but your front driveshaft will need to have the yoke replaced. In that case it's critical to find a reputable driveline shop in the area that can weld and balance a new one on for you. A new driveshaft would also work, or even a junkyard unit in a pinch. I would probably opt to pull the front shaft out and see how things roll at that point. You may be able to drive with RWD, which will yield better fuel economy in any case.

Thanks for explaining that to me. The shop seems to be well known and they seem reputable. A few people referred me to them so I assume they'll take care of the front driveshaft yoke as part of the job, but it wouldn't hurt to ask them just in case.

As part of trying to diagnose the issue when it first started, I disconnected the transfer case control module behind the glove compartment which made the truck back wheel drive only. Unfortunately I didn't notice any difference except that its *slightly* better (less frequent symptoms) with the module connected, so I reconnected it.

 

[mranderson214]

I agree with the above. Get a nice used case from a junkyard for under 300 bucks and toss that in.

Thanks for your input. I'll try to find a junkyard in my area which may have a transfer case.

 

[mranderson214]

Just an update.

I noticed that the problem hasn't been as much as before I took it to the transmission shop. This past weekend I took it in to another shop in my area for a second opinion.

They recommended that I do a "Transmission Tune" which is basically, dropping the pan, changing the fluid, and changing out gaskets(?). I explained that I had just had the fluid changed about a month ago. But last time they didn't actually drop the pan, they opened up the drain plug and let the fluid drip out and then pumped it back in.. This new shop recommends dropping the pan when they do it so they can see if there's anything "in" the pan..

Based off the symptoms I've described, they feel its some (minor) problem in my transmission. I'm planning to go back later this week for them to do the $80 transmission tune. Originally when the issue came up, I thought it was the transmission and not transfer case because the drilling/buzzing sound would happen sometimes when I shifted into reverse from park. I didn't think the transfer case had to do with that gear change at next to 0 mph.

The Transfer case are transmission are the two things that I honestly know the least about on cars. What do you guys think? Is it believable that my transfer case is fine and that its a minor problem with the transmission?

Thanks,

 

[mranderson214]

The problem is still ongoing. I was able to get/upload a recording of it.

https://youtu.be/Vz6udFH-_yA

The sound happens when I slow down above 40-50mph. Excuse the purple tint, my phone camera does that sometimes in low-light settings.

 

[Mesozoic]

In order to fully isolate the front driveline potentially being a cause of the issue I would physically remove the front driveshaft and test drive it. If the noise continues I would then look into disengaging the CVs from the front axle entirely and again, test drive. It's going to be a process of elimination, but at least those tests you can perform yourself. The transmissions in the V6 vehicles seem to have issues more than the V8 variants, so I wouldn't rule that out, but it seems that the driveline should be inspected first since it is much cheaper to repair and often the cause of noises.

 

[mranderson214]

In order to fully isolate the front driveline potentially being a cause of the issue I would physically remove the front driveshaft and test drive it. If the noise continues I would then look into disengaging the CVs from the front axle entirely and again, test drive. It's going to be a process of elimination, but at least those tests you can perform yourself. The transmissions in the V6 vehicles seem to have issues more than the V8 variants, so I wouldn't rule that out, but it seems that the driveline should be inspected first since it is much cheaper to repair and often the cause of noises.

Thanks for the reply. If you don't mind me asking, how do you go about removing the front driveshaft? I don't have a garage or lift, so I'm working with a parking lot and a (good) jack. Is this something that I might need to have them test in a shop?

 

[mranderson214]

I just spoke with the shop and they claimed that one of my tires has a different thread depth on it so it was sending the 4x4 crazy and putting a strain on everything. They said when they put the spare on they didn't feel anything.. I'll be getting it this afternoon. I'll test drive it and update back.

I've never known 4 tires of same size and thread pattern but 1 with less thread would cause these ridiculous sounds and symptoms.