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someone on here used to make spacers. i think you can even do a body lift of some sort. i am actually curious how many options there are for this particular vehicle and how high you can go.

however my sport would be the best choice to drive on the highway because it gets 23+ mpg on the highway vs. the lifted explorer that gets 8 mpg in town.

if i can take out the 9" rear and put my 8.8" with 4.56's in before then. i haven't driven it in 4 months. it just sits in my apartment parking lot. i work 40+ hours a week and go to school 30 hours a week as well so i am booked as far as having time to do other things outside of work and school.

i am in.

if you are just lifting it for show, then use the tuff country drop brackets. if you are going to be wheeling it then i would go with the skyjacker drop brackets. i had superlift drop brackets break on me. skyjacker makes the best drop brackets.

i've done it. it's easy. pm me if you have any questions. i can walk you through it.

i have subscribed to this thread. i want to see how you disconnect the rear axle.

wow man you are doing everything possible for this rig. like i have said before, keep it up. you are inspiring alot of us to work on our own junk.

svo, that is a toyota chassis.

i will changing my 4.56's and 37's to the 5.13's and 37's.

good luck if you want to attempt that.

if i recall right you can get the throttle body from jegs.

that's what i was thinking about.

what is are you running in the ttb dana 35 on a first gen explorer or ranger for a locker?

thank you guys for all your help.

does anyone know if a full spool will work for daily driving on the street? or would it only be good for off-road driving only? help please!!

i am very disappointed with my luk dial-a-clutch. i am fixing to get me a centerforce dual friction clutch.

looks good man.

if i were you i would just wait to get the right plug. i tried it on one of my trucks one time and ended up having to run all new speaker wire to all the doors.

sounds like you got the 1350 case. explorers and rangers for 94 were 1354's.

that's the joys of buying the cheap stuff. you will have to go to a pro audio shop. i had the same problem. the plug in the first picture is for your speakers. as for the 6 to 5 wires, red to red, black to black, yellow to yellow, orange to orange. as for the white on the deck i don't know where...

check the float, that has been my demon when my fuel gauge doesn't work.

i second what pollarican said. i should have just said do the bearings, rotors and pads all at the same time. it will cost money but you will at least know you are good for a while.

the shaking is probablly your rotors being warped.