1992 Explorer 5.0 swap thread | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1992 Explorer 5.0 swap thread

Yes the project is still moving forward. But at a snails pase. I really do not have any real updates due to I need to pull the trans back out to have it gone thru and seal the motor up for the final fitment.
 



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I'm glad I found your thread.. along with Jamie's and a few others I should have a lot of info if I can convince myself to do this swap on my 93. Luckily I have an entire 97 5.0 Explorer that I have owned since 60K miles.

Couple questions I had though.. do I have to retain the emissions from the 97 truck? i.e. the extra sensor and lines going to the fuel tank and the EGR system. My state does not have emissions testing and I was wondering if it is possible to omit these while doing the swap.

Any info you can share would be greatly appreciated!
 






I'm glad I found your thread.. along with Jamie's and a few others I should have a lot of info if I can convince myself to do this swap on my 93. Luckily I have an entire 97 5.0 Explorer that I have owned since 60K miles.

Couple questions I had though.. do I have to retain the emissions from the 97 truck? i.e. the extra sensor and lines going to the fuel tank and the EGR system. My state does not have emissions testing and I was wondering if it is possible to omit these while doing the swap.

Any info you can share would be greatly appreciated!

if you want to keep the cehck engine light off, yes, you will have to retain all that. having already modded the vehicle myself for this instance, its not that hard to rewire the frame harness and add the fuel pressaure transducer to the factory first gen tank. took me all of a couple hours to do :)
 






Are there any other pics of the work you did on the tank? Or if you wanted to pm to explain it a little more in detail that would be great!

I see you're a wizard when it comes to harnesses.. wink wink lol
 






He is the Harry potter of electrical harnesses ;-). Sorry Russell I had to do it
 












So has there been any progress on this swap. I am thinking of doing a 5.0 swap. I like how it looks as if this swap will not have to have a lift. My 94 EX is a 4 door Auto tranny auto transfer case auto hubs. I am going to swap everything over to manual control when I do the 5.0 swap. I Really really do not want a lift at all. I also will not run any emissions except for evap canister and catalytic converters. Im just starting to absorb the info for doing the 5.0 swap, mainly looking for more info on hardware and hard parts. Im not too worried about wiring and all of that. Hope this gets updated with the final fitment soon.
 






So sorry I have not been working on this. My line up with jobs got a little hectic. JPX took a back seat for a while.. Now I am going full speed ahead on this.

So Now that I have figured out my motor placement I pulled every thing back out. My transmission is currently apart getting all new clutches and bands, Motor is apart as well getting all new seals.

This weds and thurs I will be doing the final bolt in, hopefully.
 






Also just went through and fixed all the broken picture links
 






Well guys the motor is just about ready.. I can start my final fitment...

here is the pics of the motor.
(lost photos)
 






Got the motor in for final fitment last night and ill let these two pictures speak for themselves :D

(lost photos)
 






Made
some more progress this weekend. Kept the dummy 4R70W installed, but got the final fitment of the driveline dialed in and in place. Things completed:

Transmission crossmember rewelded and modified.
1356 electric transfer case cut down, modified, and installed in vehicle (for fitment)
frame modified to clear 1356

that was pretty much it, but again, got the final fitment of the engine down!

JPX sitting ready for all the work to occur!
hypuhepy.jpg



Clay, our resident welder, cutting, welding, grinding on the crossmember
gatamyqu.jpg



crossmember halfway through modification
uge7u8um.jpg



this is me grinding on the 1356 case to make clearance between the frame walls and body
metuhehy.jpg



at the end of the day, this is how the transfer case is sitting...it's tight under there, but nothing rubs
erevybus.jpg

tyjupy8u.jpg

ju5yma9a.jpg

yge8epyd.jpg
 






Great work, it looks like you've got plenty of space, shade, and clothes to weld with. Keep at it.

BTW, how close in strength are the 1356 and BW4406 again, I've read it but forgot?
 






I can let kris answer that question about strength, but what I remember, the 1356 is damn near bullet proof. as far as space, the idea was to get the motor as far back and as low to the ground as possible - the james duff 4wd motor mounts, in 'stock' form, sit the motor very very high...we modified them to drop the motor about another 2 inches than where james duff designed them at - doing so, we had to notch out the mustang dual sump oil pan and grind on the drop bracket, but in doing so, we got this thing super close to where we wanted...so far back in fact, if we had another 3/8" of clearance, we could run a stock mechanical fan and stock 4.0 radiator in stock location :eek:
 






I wish the shade helped more it was still 100 degrees in the shade
 






I wouldn't call the 1356 bulletproof but for this size explorer that case is overkill for a chain driven case. An atlas isn't as wide and is gear driven. It would fit very good but I wanted electric shift.
 






I wouldn't call the 1356 bulletproof but for this size explorer that case is overkill for a chain driven case. An atlas isn't as wide and is gear driven. It would fit very good but I wanted electric shift.

Thanks, I too was after an electric shift case. I went with the one that for the 2nd gens will run with the V6 controls.:thumbsup:
 






This is awesome, it's inspiring me to do it to mine. I wish I knew more about swaps though, the most I've done really is just pull the motor out and down to the shortblock.

I don't have friends that can cut up oil pans and weld specific things like that :( Would this be more of a bolt in thing with Advanced Adapters motor mounts and a body lift?

Keep up the good work guys, this is going to be sweet! I love how you matched it up to the exterior, can't wait to see it sitting in it's home driving down the road :thumbsup:
 






The bolt on adapters help in some ways and then you have to still have to cut and weld. If you did use the kits you need about a three inch body lift to avoid cutting and welding but some of that will still need to be done
 



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The bolt on adapters help in some ways and then you have to still have to cut and weld. If you did use the kits you need about a three inch body lift to avoid cutting and welding but some of that will still need to be done


Our swap is a bit different from all the others in the fact that we are trying to retain a factory look/build quality while modifying everything as much as possible to sit that motor as low and far back as possible. We even modified the James Duff mounts out of the box to suck the motor even closer to the engine crossmember (hence the notch in the oil pan) - as far as "bolt in", the james duff motor mounts can be used as is, it just keeps the motor about 2.5" higher than where we have it. James Duff designed these mount to accommodate the 4wd, but at the price of jacking the motor way high up, and they even say you have to have a body lift
 






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