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Solved 5R55S servo cover popped off.

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
Progress, I got the cover off using some oil filter locking pliers I bought for the body lift. I found that the piston rod has broken away from the cylinder head right where it is swedged together.

Now if I put just the piston rod through the case until I feel it push against the band, I feel a very slight wiggle to the bore by a few thousands of an inch. It is wobbly, but not terrible at all.

Should this be a friction fit with pretty much no wiggle?

With that said, should I just go with the modified replacement?
 



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I also plan to drop the pan and change the filter. Is the gasket normally replaced? Should I try to drain the torque converter? The tranny fluid is rather dark, and according to the OP’s records it looks like last service was almost 80K miles ago (drop pan, inspect, refill)

Anything else I should/can do from underneath?
 






The servo separated? The shaft broke off from the round disk area? I would suggest getting the aftermarket servo with O rings. The question is which thing broke first. Did the servo cover move out of position then cause the servo to twist & break or did the servo break, and cause excessive force to push the cover out of position? Either way, you'll need a new servo so just get the one with O ring seals.
 






The servo separated? The shaft broke off from the round disk area? I would suggest getting the aftermarket servo with O rings. The question is which thing broke first. Did the servo cover move out of position then cause the servo to twist & break or did the servo break, and cause excessive force to push the cover out of position? Either way, you'll need a new servo so just get the one with O ring seals.
Yes, the shaft broke off of the round disk area. The shaft will slide into the bore easily, and I can feel resistance as I come into contact with the band's actuator. If I push a bit more it feels like I'm pushing against a spring's force which I assume to be the band moving.

I'll get the upgraded servo with the o ring seals, I also need to replace the o ring seal on the cover as well.

Thanks.
 






So far it sounds like good news since there's no damage to the notch on the case for the snap ring or the bore. On a side note, it was mentioned earlier in this thread that you're an engineer. Do you work with software such as 123D Design, Autocad or 3D printing?
 












So far it sounds like good news since there's no damage to the notch on the case for the snap ring or the bore. On a side note, it was mentioned earlier in this thread that you're an engineer. Do you work with software such as 123D Design, Autocad or 3D printing?
Yes, I work with AutoCAD, I don't do much 3D, but I'm a pretty good flatland (2D) drafter.

Here's a screenshot from my Lightbar design and front LED bar mount. I also designed and fabricated all the mounts for my roof rack.

View media item 54024
 






Progress, I got the cover off using some oil filter locking pliers I bought for the body lift. I found that the piston rod has broken away from the cylinder head right where it is swedged together.

Now if I put just the piston rod through the case until I feel it push against the band, I feel a very slight wiggle to the bore by a few thousands of an inch. It is wobbly, but not terrible at all.

Should this be a friction fit with pretty much no wiggle?

With that said, should I just go with the modified replacement?
Yes, the shaft broke off of the round disk area. The shaft will slide into the bore easily, and I can feel resistance as I come into contact with the band's actuator. If I push a bit more it feels like I'm pushing against a spring's force which I assume to be the band moving.

I'll get the upgraded servo with the o ring seals, I also need to replace the o ring seal on the cover as well.

Thanks.
@domct203
If it will help you, here's the two servos scanned from the ATSG Ford Manual.





Not a transmission expert, but I figure they mean the band must be fully relaxed to remove the pump during disassembly. I have not done this job yet myself on this particular transmission, but see that the band is kept in place by struts, one of which bears against the adjustment screw and the other against the servo piston shaft. In any event, loss of position of the strut (s) seems inevitable when the piston breaks, as yours did. Perhaps @BrooklynBay can answer this one, it's troubled me for awhile now. I see you've posted pics earlier, maybe I will learn more. Good luck! imp
 






The strut is held in place by the tension of the servo piston. I would think that the strut would fall out when the servo is broken or removed but it seems like there's still enough tension from the adjusting bolt to push it into place without the strut falling out on the servo's side. I'm sure that the strut could fall out, but it seems like it's possible to replace the servo without it falling out from reading posts from other members which replaced it.
 






The strut is held in place by the tension of the servo piston. I would think that the strut would fall out when the servo is broken or removed but it seems like there's still enough tension from the adjusting bolt to push it into place without the strut falling out on the servo's side. I'm sure that the strut could fall out, but it seems like it's possible to replace the servo without it falling out from reading posts from other members which replaced it.
Well then, it looks like I am not out of the woods just yet.

I guess at this point it may be best to drop the pan and check for that strut. It’s raining today, so that will have to wait until the next decent weather day.

If I don’t find the strut in the pan I’ll order the replacement servos right after the holidays.

If I do find that strut in the pan I guess I’ve got my work cut out for me.

You guys have been a great help so far, let’s hope this continues to go well for my Explorer.

Oh, one more question. I’ve been reading threads and watching videos on dropping the pan and I see mixed opinions on replacing the pan gasket on these transmissions. My intuition tells me to replace it regardless, what say you? At this point, I’d say it’s worth the piece of mind.
 






The rubber gaskets are replaceable if they aren't dry rotted. There are metal inserts where the bolts go through to prevent the rubber gasket from getting too compressed if the bolts are made too tight. Those inserts fall out if the gasket is old, so it might be an indicator to replace the gasket if you see this happen. Use a torque wrench when you tighten the pan bolts. A long nose needle nose pliers or one of those new designs with multiple hinges might come in handy for reinstalling an apply strut if it fell out.
 






I will definitely use a torque wrench, and a new gasket.

A long nose needle nose pliers or one of those new designs with multiple hinges might come in handy for reinstalling an apply strut if it fell out.

That sounds interesting, could you post a link to an example?
 






13 in. Long-Reach Compound Joint Pliers. Today is the last day that you could use a 25% off coupon.

64108_W3[1].jpg
 












The strut is held in place by the tension of the servo piston. I would think that the strut would fall out when the servo is broken or removed but it seems like there's still enough tension from the adjusting bolt to push it into place without the strut falling out on the servo's side. I'm sure that the strut could fall out, but it seems like it's possible to replace the servo without it falling out from reading posts from other members which replaced it.
@BrooklynBay
Exactly what I had in mind. Have heard many times of the struts falling loose. Since they are located along the bottom side of the clutch drums, they would likely fall onto the top of the valve body, IMO, but not positive. I have not yet had the pleasure of seeing the means employed to locate the movable strut on the piston rod with my own eyes. imp
 






I don't think that the brand of the gasket makes a difference. I've used Felpro gaskets in the past which cost more than the no name brand gaskets, and they leaked. Don't use any silicone on rubber gaskets. It will cause a leak. You could get original Motorcraft gaskets if you want to keep everything OEM.
 






Thanks for the tips. I used to always use Fel-Pro ‘back in the day’ wasn’t sure if they were still worth the money.

I plan to drop the pan this weekend and pull the filter, temps should be in the high 40’s. Guess I’ll need to drop the valve body to visually check for the strut?

I’ve also read that I should replace the band adjustment lock nuts as well. I see that they have a built in seal.
 






Ok, I’m stuck trying to get the servo cover back on. I just can’t seem to push it in far enough. I’ve loosened the band adjuster, and can push the servo itself in to what I think should be far enough. If I really push on the cover it seems to be getting stuck in the opening? I’m being very careful to make sure I’m pushing straight as to not tilt the cover.

Any ideas?
 






I got it. I lubed it up good this time and gave it a good shove. Now I’m just making sure I have the snap ring in good.

I’m taking my chances that the apply strut did not fall out.... I started cracking loose the pan and I got to a bolt that felt way too spongy when trying to loosen. Last thing I need right now is a broken pan bolt. If all goes well I’ll get to that in the spring.

Going to set the band adjustment and fill her up.

Wish me luck!
 



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I got it. I lubed it up good this time and gave it a good shove. Now I’m just making sure I have the snap ring in good.

I’m taking my chances that the apply strut did not fall out.... I started cracking loose the pan and I got to a bolt that felt way to spongy when trying to loosen. Last thing I need right now is a broken pan bolt. If all goes well I’ll get to that in the spring.

Going to set the band adjustment and fill her up.

Wish me luck!
@domct203

Good luck! If the band strut fell out, you would be able to feel that as the adjustment screw would turn inwards forever, I think. If it did fall out, operation would reveal that particular clutch drum is not being held, and the servo piston would bottom in it's hole. (I think). imp
 






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