A4LD stuck in forward, even while in neutral and reverse.

[adhahn]

I guess I should have been clearer when I ask how to unstick the cluch pack. What I ment to ask is how to unstick the pack WITHOUT taking the transmission apart.

Also, I have not updated after taking my Explorer off jackstands and driving it.

It drives and shifts fine in "D". No slipping after cleaning the valve body, but it still tries to move forward even in "N" and "R", and you can feel the engine loaded down trying to move the vehicle forward against the parking pawl while in "P".

That is why I was wondering if a stuck clutch pack might break loose by chaining the vehicle to something while in "N" or "R" when the clutch pack is not supposed to be applied, and bouncing or jerking forward against the chain?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Everything is internal, so you can't do anything from outside of the transmission.

 

[Crawlinbronc]

Yeah if its like mine, then them clutches and steels are junk, needing replacement. I did order my alignment tool and Sonnax hoot-en-dooter from Transparts USA, Do you get a commission BrooklynBay?! Kidding, they seem very prompt on getting parts out. I assume the Sonnax part has instructions with it? If not, I'm sure I can figure it out... Famous last words, right?

 

[Crawlinbronc]

Ahh, finally. Update

Here is the update I promised. Finally got the tranny put back together. Used my alignment tool from www.transpartsusa.com, side note, I had to take a brake hone to the inside of the tool to get it down over the input shaft. When building this tranny details,details, details! Wow pay attention to the small things and get it right the first time. I'm trucker trash so I worked on mine on weekends, and I guess I forget things in a week. Its not cool pulling things back apart to make sure I did something right. I know its not the right way to do it, but we gotta do what we gotta do...! any ways, my brother and I got it stabbed today, hooked it all up and took it out for a hot lap. Runs good and shifts good. No complaints here. Time will tell if I did it right. So my many thanks to Brooklynbay, Glacier991, and all the others out there who are so knowledgeable on sploders. Now I might have time to cruise the rest of the website to see what else is out there!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update!

 

[richieintransit]

Hi guys, I have an a4ld in my uk ford transt which i assume is the same,? I have the exact same problem, I have never taken a gearbox apart but might give it a go, I think it's my clutch stuck on due to water in the gearbox, has anyone managed to free one off without stripping the gearbox yet!? where can I get parts from and what is the pump tool for? why does it need lining up and to what? and can this not be done without a special tool? if not what does the tool look like and if anyone has pictures of stripping and building a gearbox then I'd be very grateful, thanks guys
Richie B uk

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! There was a variation of the A4LD which you could call a missing link in the UK Ford Transit vans. It was some sort of early version of an A4LDE. Take a look at this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239416

 

[richieintransit]

Hi Brooklyn
I have seen that thread but my gearbox is not an a4lde it's a a4ld as my transit is a pinto petrol! I do also have one the same as andy with a diesel engine which is the a4lde/E not sure which E it is!!
What I'd really like to know is has anyone got a trick up their sleeve to unlock the clutch without stripping the box? like dragging the van back or something!! or is it stuck for good!
I have seen some pics of the clutch ring thingys (sorry I have no idea on the technical names!!) they look like a ring with a waffle effect on with teeth in the middle! how many of these are in the box as on youtube videos it looks like there are a lot of them, do you know a good place where I could get these online, would ford sell them??
I was thinking of drilling a small hole in my sump to use as a drain plug and see if any water comes out, how do I tell if the torque converter is ok,? will it lose drive or slip if the tc is faulty???
thanks for reading
Richie

 

[BrooklynBay]

Don't drill any holes other than in the pan to install a drain plug. The TCC solenoid engages/disengages the torque converter. The internal clutch packs are hydraulically controlled by the valve body. I would suggest that you take a look at the A4LD rebuild sticky on the top of the transmission section.

 

[richieintransit]

hi there,this is an interesting problem as I drilled out the pan and drained the atf, NO water came out which was good, I gave it a day or two to drain, i started her up briefly and it was no longer stuck in gear so this must mean the clutch isn't stuck on?! I then put some new atf in hoping that it would be thinner than what came out and free off whatever has stuck, I started it up in n and it seemed ok, revved up which it wouldn't do before! I then put into reverse but nothing happened, then i went from p to r and it started to go forward again!! OH NO!!
so am I correct in now thinking that this is a sticking valve or something and not a duff clutch? I called a gearbox place and they said if i remove the sump and undo the valve body that parts will get lost if i do it on the van, is this true or are they just trying to stop me fixing it myself! I want to try and fix it while still on the van as gearbox removal would be too hard for me, I'd rather try and fix it on the vehicle if possible, any ideas if there could be something else causing this to happen? all suggestions are appretiated,
thanks
richie

 

[BrooklynBay]

It sounds like the Z link might be slightly bent or the manual slide valve might be worn. You won't lose any parts if you unbolt the valve body just as long as you don't open the screws connecting the rear separator plate to it.

 

[JK080]

hi there,this is an interesting problem as I drilled out the pan and drained the atf, NO water came out which was good, I gave it a day or two to drain, i started her up briefly and it was no longer stuck in gear so this must mean the clutch isn't stuck on?! I then put some new atf in hoping that it would be thinner than what came out and free off whatever has stuck, I started it up in n and it seemed ok, revved up which it wouldn't do before! I then put into reverse but nothing happened, then i went from p to r and it started to go forward again!! OH NO!!
so am I correct in now thinking that this is a sticking valve or something and not a duff clutch? I called a gearbox place and they said if i remove the sump and undo the valve body that parts will get lost if i do it on the van, is this true or are they just trying to stop me fixing it myself! I want to try and fix it while still on the van as gearbox removal would be too hard for me, I'd rather try and fix it on the vehicle if possible, any ideas if there could be something else causing this to happen? all suggestions are appretiated,
thanks
richie

I understand your way of thinking here with the fluid and the process of elimination, thinking that the forward clutches cant be welded together because without the fluid its not wanting to pull forward in all ranges.

But... the torque converter requires fluid to be able to make the connection between the engine and transmission. So when you refilled the transmission with fluid the converter was able to drive the transmission and the problem came back. I am sorry but I doubt there is anything you can do short of removing this transmission and rebuilding it or at least replacing the forward clutch that cant release because the clutches have seized to the steels because of slipping and high heat.

 

[richieintransit]

it's amazing how they can weld together while in the fluid!,

what's the slide valve? where is it and what does it do as i can't find any info about it?
is there a thread on it or the vavlve body on here, can't seem to find much n the a4ld with pictures! does anyone know if there is a rebuild manual online including remnoval of the box?
cheers

 

[BrooklynBay]

That part is designed to move when you shift from P R N OD D 2 1. The hole where the Z link connects could get egg shaped, and the rest of the part could either chip or wear down slightly. Check the sticky thread on the top of the transmission section called the A4LD valve body rebuild diary for more information.