Air Box | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Air Box

topo4u2

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 11, 2002
Messages
125
Reaction score
0
City, State
Ontario Canada
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 XLT
Has anyone had any problems running there air filter whether it be stock or K&M open under the hood especially in winter? Any computer or sensor problems? How about when it rains?
I really want to try this on my 95 but can't afford a K&M right now. Has anyone left the stock filter with success? It is easy to remove the section of air box that holds the air filter on the 95 but it also leaves the filter open to the elements.

Thanks.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I would not run the stock paper filter without the airbox, it's too fragile. Any of the cotton filters are fine open under the hood.
 






Has anyone out there run a stock air filter under the hood wide open after they took out the housing that supports it????
 






It has been done yes. There is no reason too however.
All you need to do is open up the factory box, you can drill holes in it, that will increase your airflow by removing SOME of the restrictions.

HOWEVER the paper element is a huge restriction in itself, and the K&N style filter should be the FIRST upgrade to any induction.

When it comes to intake you are only as good as your smallest bottleneck........
The first bottleneck in your intake is the factory inlet, followed by the ducting to the airbox, then the filter itself, the MAS sensor is restrictive but not as much as the air silencer and intake tube, then finallythe throttle body.

Also doesnt do you any good to open up all this intake and ignore the exhaust. You will get to a point where you are feedinfg the engine more air then it will ever need and then you need to focus your attention elsewhere.

Just remember you want a smooth path for the air to flow, you want to grab the coolest air possible, and you want to make sure that the factory restrictions are removed.
 






I can attest to do no good to increase intake but not exhaust. I can't afford the exhast now, but I did noticed that every intake mod leading to the throttle body (I haven't ported the intake manifold yet) has led to extra low-end HP and torque. My 1/4-mile ET is about the same, but what changed was my 60' and 330' times everytime. I did get better fuel economy anyway, and it does pull harder, but I need exhaust before I do anything else.

Go ahead and fix the other restrictions before thinking about open element filters. If you want open-element filtration, either buy the full kit (K&N, KKM, or MAC), or make one that uses a cotton-gauze filter. Paper sucks.
 






do most people here run their K&N, kkm or mac in the winter time? im in buffalo.. where it gets pretty cold.. is it ok to use my mac in the winter? or should i put back my original airbox?
 






Good Question jjsong,

I would like to know myself on that one. I only live a few miles from New York State.
Thanks for the great replies on the air box dilema. I will have to save up for a K&N filter.
 






I know I live in Texas but....I've never had a problem with the engine running too cold, even starting it up on single digit mornings. You just need to let it warm up a bit longer before you drive, and it helps to have the stock degree thermostat.
 






OKay with the open element under the hood you will need to give it a few extra minutes of warm up time on those really cold mornings, just so the throttle body does not get iced over and the thermostat has a chance to open and get some coolant flowing through the heater core. I live in CO, it gets cold as *^it here but it is not nearly as humid as the east coast. I have been running a open element/cold air induction setup for the last 5 years and never once had a problem.

The pre-heater hose that comes off your pass side exhaust manifold and goes down to the vacuum controlled flapper valve's purpose is to keep the MAS and TB from icing over. Obviously when you ditched the airbox you ditched this hose and valve. My 4.0L only takes like 3 minutes at 2200 RPM to reach 180 degree's, then the thermostat open. In the first 30 seconds or so I would say it is already warm enough under the hood to keep anything from icing up.

So thats the long version. I do not see a reason to put the box in just because of the cold, I never did, and I have never had any problems, even when I stay up in the mountains for a week or two during the winter and it;s SUPER COLD, she still tunrs right over and she still takes 3 minutes at 2200 rpm's to get my hands warm....
 






Back
Top