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Finding and bypassing the amp on a 93 explorer

Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by reko323, June 18, 2011.

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    1. reko323

      reko323 New Member

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      Hey so i got a new stereo for my 93 ford explorer and i have all the things i need and am going to bypass the amp. The only problem ios i don't know where it is or how to get to it. So if any one knows where the amp is and how to get to it on a 93 explorer that would be great.
       
      Last edited: June 18, 2011
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    3. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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      It's not a lot of fun... Go in through the back hatch and start peeling back the plastic panel on the passenger side. It's all attached with friction carrot connectors except a few screws which hopefully are not too corroded. It is roughly over the top of the back right wheel well. You may have to remove the back seatbelt mount... I did mine on a 2-door so I cannot say precisely what level of torture you are about to deal with.

      Have band-aids handy, there are sharp edges in there. You know there is a bypass harness and all that good stuff, so once you get to it, and get the connectors off the amp, it's 2 minutes there and then getting it all put back together again. It's a hellish place, but I'm not sure where else they could have put it that would be any better. That back side is just about the only place for a subwoofer if you plan to haul anything that takes up the back space.
       
    4. reko323

      reko323 New Member

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      Thank you do you think that it is just under the floor panel near where the spare tire is? because that where someone told me it was and i wasn't sure. I also don't want to do all that and it not be there.
       
    5. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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      I looked at my book which covers all 94 explorers, and it is behind the panel over the right rear wheel well. Is it there for the 93 too? I should think so, but not having a 93 to verify against, I'll have to stick with 'I think so'. You could check the audio threads, that's how I found out where it was.
       
    6. cloaked_chaos

      cloaked_chaos Elite Explorer

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      The real question is: Why do you think you need to bypass the stock amplifier?
       
    7. dragon40226

      dragon40226 New Member

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      he is trying to put a new amp in, more bass.
       
    8. Jason94sport

      Jason94sport Well-Known Member

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      Behind the passenger side rear panel. All X's up to 2000. And it's not hard at all.
       
    9. reko323

      reko323 New Member

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      Where did you get the book id love to get one for my 93, and ill check those threads. Also i need to bypass the amp im not getting a new one i just talked to guys about audio like soundfx and stuff and they say bypass the amp unless i get subs or powerful speakers because the stereo has an amp thats good enough so bypassing it makes it sound better.
       
    10. reko323

      reko323 New Member

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      Jason 94 sport, its not hard? like do i need to take up the carpet stuff in the back or undo what screws? and where are the screws?
       
    11. reko323

      reko323 New Member

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      Roadrunner how do i get to the audio threads.... Sorry im new at this haha
       
    12. cloaked_chaos

      cloaked_chaos Elite Explorer

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      I left the stock amp fully functional for my door speakers, and just unplugged the wire for the stock sub. I have an aftermarket headunit and in my opinion it sounds a lot better with the amp than without it.

      For my subs I ran RCA from the back of the headunit through the wire channel along the bottom passenger side door frame, and power wire in the upper channel above the passenger side (some trimming required but not noticeable when installed). I ran my negative power line from one of the bolts connected to the cargo hooks. For the remote turn on I tied into the blue wire leading to the stock amp.

      I hid the rest of the wire underneath the rear seat under the carpet. With the seats up, you don't see a single wire. With the seats down you see a few inches of wire leading between the 60/40 seats.
       
    13. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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      No problem, just click on the Explorer logo at the very top of the page to get to the root or top of the threads. Scroll down through the categories and look for the Audio and Navigation group.

      It may be easier to get to on a 4-door explorer, it's a complete pain on a 2-door, that's the only experience I have. There are screws holding the panel at the base, and you may have to roll the carpet back a little to see them.

      Do you have to bypass the amp? I assumed so when I did it. I figured the HU speaker outputs was made to power speakers, not another amp. But, that's just me, I didn't want to risk being wrong and having to buy another HU. If you go through the amp, I think you will have to figure out the power enable for the amp, some other details. Someone who has done it can surely help you if you go that route.
       
    14. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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      I'm using the factory schematic book, they are on ebay... not cheap, it may be $30. But, it covers every wire by size and color, every connector, splice and device and it is much easier to use than a one page drawing. If you like that, there are 2 other books that cover body/chassis and powertrain. Yes, you could be in for $100 in manuals. But, these are the books Ford uses at their dealerships, good stuff.

      Well, this topic is a good example. You can get a schematic from the Autozone site, or a Chiltons manual, but it probably won't include the power amp or sub-woofer amp because they are options and they don't want to spend the time or paper to include them. The factory book covers them across several pages, wire by function.
       
    15. cloaked_chaos

      cloaked_chaos Elite Explorer

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      I did not bypass my amp. My headunit outputs 17 watts per channel, which is fairly typical. I tested hooking my speakers directly to the headunit, and it just wasn't enough for me.

      Ford did a pretty good job of picking the speakers for the premium audio system. I have two explorers that came with the premium audio and I have not had any problem with the stock speakers or stock amp. On the same note, I have had to replace every single speaker on my explorers that did not come with the premium audio.

      The stock amp is specifically designed to power the speakers that came with it. As far as I know, (not 100% certain) both the standard and premium stock headunits output an amplified sound level instead of line level. This allows them to hook the headunit directly to the speakers for the standard audio, and to the amp for the premium audio. This is why hooking an aftermarket headunit to the stock amp works fine. Since an aftermarket headunit in most cases will output more power, the amp just reaches it's peak amplification with a lower volume setting on an aftermarket headunit than with the stock headunit.

      To turn on the stock amplifier, most aftermarket headunits will come with a 12v remote amp power wire, which is blue in most cases. Just hook this wire to the corresponding wire on the stock wiring harness.
       
    16. reko323

      reko323 New Member

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      How do i know if i have a premium system? mine is a 93 explorer the radio has dnr printed on the cassette door? i don't know if that is important? and it is just cassette no cd
       
    17. reko323

      reko323 New Member

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      Also does anyone who has done this already (roadrunner) do you have to take off the seaztbel;t thing thats in the way? and what things do i take off like what screws and where are they?
       
    18. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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      The DNR is Dolby Noise Reduction, and yes, signifies the Premium sound package. (There is an even higher level that adds a JBL subwoofer).

      Yes, on my 2-door I had to remove the shoulder seatbelt anchor, it's a big torx, but I don't know the size. I also had to remove my window latch, but that is a 2-door chassis feature. On a 4-door, I don't know what else you need to remove. I just kept taking stuff off until I could bend the plastic panel away far enough to get to the connectors.
       
    19. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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      I have read many people run through the amp. I did not know this when I did my install, except maybe I read one thread on someone doing it, and since I could only afford one headunit, I decided to play it safe (knowing what I knew at the time) and bypassed it.

      Today's sound system concepts... excuse me... (engage old man rant mode)
      I completely appreciate the new features of today's headunits. My entire collection fits on a tiny thumbdrive and even though my HU (Kenwood) also has a CD player, I haven't had a reason to use it yet. iPod capable, and adjusting for inflation, cheaper than the HU's of the 70's (my younger days).

      But... 17 watts per channel is really pretty soft. Old school HU's were 25watt minimum, and 35 was pretty typical. Well, today it doesn't matter so much because everybody is adding amps and subwoofers. So the HU makers now can get away with cheaper internal amps.

      I use my explorer as a utility vehicle. One day it's hauling bags of sand, the next day it has groceries, then maybe grandkids. What do I have to do to get decent sound? In the 2-door there is no space to mount amps or subwoofers. I went to a sound shop and asked them and they said they would have to research it and see how other people solved the problem.

      (Yes, I could mount an amp and subwoofer like the JBL system does... I figure I'm out $300+ to do that and I'm a cheap SOB so that isn't going to work.)

      What would have worked nicely was a high power HU and 4 nice 3-way speakers. I now have a low power HU and 4 nice 3-way speakers.

      The good news... is that when I put $30 Pyle 3-ways in the front doors, I got enough bass to be ok with the set-up.

      (old man rant mode off)

      Have a great day! :D
       
    20. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Back in 5 minutes Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The new HU will be distorted with the stock amp at mid to higher volume. Bypass it by all means.

      Option #2...You can run new speaker wires as well and forget about bypassing all together.
       
    21. Jason94sport

      Jason94sport Well-Known Member

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      That has been my experience. I have done this in 4 1st gens.
      I have done both sport & 4 doors. On the sports you do need to take the seat belt bolt out & the window latch & the few trim clips near the front seat to get the panel off. Or if you get good at it you can bend the panel down after unbolting the seat belt bolt & there's just enough room to get a arm in there to unhook the harness & plug in the bypass.
      On the 4 door it's easier. Less panel to deal with. But it's the same procedure up to the seat belt bolt.
      Remove the hatch door sill. There's 7 or 8 Phillips screws.
      With a trim panel remover pry out the clips that hold the panel. Up the hatch,(2) & around the window(3), & up at the top(2 or 3)
      Remove the seat belt bolt( T47 or T50)
      Remove the coat hook(small hex socket)
      Pry back edge of carpet at the bottom of the panel,(doesn't need much just the edge) there should be another 3 or 4 Philips screws.
      Panel should now pull out & you can lean it across the hatch.
      BTW easier to put seats down when doing this.
       
    22. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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      ^^^^^ This is exactly how mine went. Jason has a mind like a trap... I would have never remembered to mention the coathook, but yeah, that needs to come off too... well done, Jason.
       
    23. cloaked_chaos

      cloaked_chaos Elite Explorer

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      You are talking apples and oranges here. The 25 and 35 you are quoting is peak power, not rms. If you want to talk peak power, my headunit is 200 watts (50x4), but that is not a realistic number.


      When I bought my newest explorer, it came with new wires ran from the headunit to the speakers. I removed these.

      I only recommend using the stock amp if you are using the stock premium speakers. If you have aftermarket speakers then by all means bypass the amp, but you will still need to add an amp in the system for them to sound decent. I listen to my music at extremely high volume (hence the need for two 12" subs and a 1200 watt amp) and the stock premium door speakers connected to the stock amp do not start clipping until past the point at which I cannot hear the noise coming from the person sitting next to me trying to talk/yell to me.
       
    24. Jason94sport

      Jason94sport Well-Known Member

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      I have never seen a 1st gen with these speakers still working. And I looked at a lot.
       
    25. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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      My stock premiums... well, maybe someone abused them. They buzzed badly at moderate volume.
       
    26. huntman58

      huntman58 Active Member

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      Any one know of any amps that will fit in the stock location?

      I would love to remove my after market one and replace it with one I can fit back there need at lest a 3 channel but would love a 5 channel better or one 4 channel and one sub amp thanks and do not mean to high jack but thought I would ask it here for a fast response possibly.

      Now the panel removal is not hard I had no directions or even saw one done but jumped in and just worked slow and careful and got it done in no time. Did remove the stock amp and ran all new wires for my HU and speakers and sub. The sub is in an old QLogic box were the JBL would be in the side panel. MTX I believe also makes a sub set up for the same area. I also believe you can get threes with an amp also already attached to.

      Ya and I am an old fart also roadrunner LOL. Got to have it load to get past the bad hearing LMAO.
       

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