Front end clunk - bushing failure?

[SHUMAX]

Good news! Yes, I would replace the drivers side, too. The new passenger joint will put more stress on the old drivers side joint. As cheap as they are, I try to replace them in pairs.

Glad it was resolved so easily!
Shumax

 

[dont slow down]

Yes I will be ordering another soon, I just wanted to replace it to see if that was in fact the problem. It was a bit of a pain getting the old one out, the lower nut was in a awkward position to work on.

 

[SHUMAX]

I agree. I had a ratcheting wrench and a box end on the outside. Helped, but still a bit of a pain. I used an impact on the top to run it down and then snugged the last bit by end so as to avoid destroying the joint. Amazing how much noise those things can make when they are bad...

 

[1995E]

I went to the dealer to do diagnostics and they said my sway bar links need to be replaced. What should I expect to pay with parts and labor? They quoted me 375. However, I saw some youtube videos and it seems pretty easy to change. Should I go motorcraft for the links or should I buy aftermarket?

 

[SHUMAX]

The links themselves are under $50 for both - Moog parts, which are better as they have grease fittings. Last time I looked, OEM was even less. This was from RockAuto. So, what is your time worth?

The process is not that hard, just a bit tough to get to. You need a 10mm to hold the end of the bolt and I THINK a 17mm to turn the nut. If you have an impact, you can buzz the top nut right off. The bottom is tight and I could not get my impact in there with even a bunch of swivel sockets.

Process took me 30min. using an impact on the top bolt to loosen.

Good luck!
Shumax

 

[dont slow down]

It took me about 2 hours to change mine, mostly because I didn't have an impact gun and spent most of the time trying to get the lower nut off because it is in a right spot. I wouldn't pay that much to change those, its a fairly straight forward job if you have the tools.

 

[1995E]

The links themselves are under $50 for both - Moog parts, which are better as they have grease fittings. Last time I looked, OEM was even less. This was from RockAuto. So, what is your time worth?

The process is not that hard, just a bit tough to get to. You need a 10mm to hold the end of the bolt and I THINK a 17mm to turn the nut. If you have an impact, you can buzz the top nut right off. The bottom is tight and I could not get my impact in there with even a bunch of swivel sockets.

Process took me 30min. using an impact on the top bolt to loosen.

Good luck!
Shumax

What grease should I use with my grease gun? I heard lithium grease eats away or hardens the rubber. Also, I keep seeing Mevotech Sway Bar links online, anyone ever used them? Should I go OEM, Moog, or Mevotech? Thanks!

Edit: Also, what are the torque specs for the top and bottom bolts?

 

[SHUMAX]

I would use Moog or OEM. I have always used high temp wheel bearing grease. I believe the torque spec is 50lbs. Frankly, you will be hard pressed to get a torque wrench on them - maybe the top. Doubt the dealer does, either. I would get the nut snug and then turn another 3/4 turn and be done with it. If it loosens up it will knock and you will know it.

 

[JT138771]

Mine was sway bar links as well.

 

[RandyH2]

Strut mount bearings went bad on mine, both sides. I can't help but think the vibration I have had from day one promoted premature wear on everything in the front suspension- "normal" by Ford definition or not. Either way, I am out ~$400 tomorrow.

 

[SHUMAX]

Mine came back. Threw the towel. New strut bearings go in tomorrow. Did yours have a metal on metal clank over bumps at medium speeds and then a clunking at lower speeds?

 

[Sixonemale]

Mine came back. Threw the towel. New strut bearings go in tomorrow. Did yours have a metal on metal clank over bumps at medium speeds and then a clunking at lower speeds?

We may as well try to consolidate the front end noises and their root causes:

· Sway bar link – loud clunk when driving on driveways or parking lots, no noise on highway

· Lower control arm bushing – creaking noises caused by driving over uneven surfaces, can happen when driving and turning at the same time over a speed bump, no noise on highway

· Strut mounts – Almost a metal on metal clanking noise that is semi unbearable and can be isolated by rocking the steering wheel back and forth in parking lot driving less than 5 mph. No noise on highway

· Ball joints - clunking going over small bumps and when you come to a dead stop and pull back out. No noise on the highway as far as I know

Obviously this list is somewhat subjective because I've only experienced replacing the lower control arm and and it's bushing as well as a strut mount, so I know what noise they each produce fairly well. I included the sway bar link and ball joints and wrote down what others had experienced, therefore, if anyone has any comments feel free to edit this list.

 

[RandyH2]

Strut mount bearings went bad on mine, both sides. I can't help but think the vibration I have had from day one promoted premature wear on everything in the front suspension- "normal" by Ford definition or not. Either way, I am out ~$400 tomorrow.

Curious to know what yours ends up costing, out the door... Maybe add it to this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...p-repair-costs-please-list-your-costs.449954/

 

[SHUMAX]

We may as well try to consolidate the front end noises and their root causes:

· Sway bar link – loud clunk when driving on driveways or parking lots, no noise on highway

· Lower control arm bushing – creaking noises caused by driving over uneven surfaces, can happen when driving and turning at the same time over a speed bump, no noise on highway

· Strut mounts – Almost a metal on metal clanking noise that is semi unbearable and can be isolated by rocking the steering wheel back and forth in parking lot driving less than 5 mph. No noise on highway

· Ball joints - clunking going over small bumps and when you come to a dead stop and pull back out. No noise on the highway as far as I know

Obviously this list is somewhat subjective because I've only experienced replacing the lower control arm and and it's bushing as well as a strut mount, so I know what noise they each produce fairly well. I included the sway bar link and ball joints and wrote down what others had experienced, therefore, if anyone has any comments feel free to edit this list.

The sway bar links make a metal on metal clanking sound, not a thump. At least not for me. They are most noticeable at lower speeds.

Also, my control arm bushing clunked and thumped over rough road and also in conditions you described.

I believe you are right on the strut mounts. I will know tomorrow after mine are replaced.

Good summary.
Shumax

 

[RandyH2]

Got mine back with the new strut mount bearings. The steering is nice and tight, suspension feels tight. BUT the vibration is back! I guess it will vibrate down the road until the something gives, again.

 

[SHUMAX]

Got mine back with the new strut mount bearings. The steering is nice and tight, suspension feels tight. BUT the vibration is back! I guess it will vibrate down the road until the something gives, again.

What's the vibration that you are experiencing - speed when it happens, accel/decel/coast, etc. feel in steering wheel, only, or in the seats, too?

Is the rattling/clunking you heard now gone?

 

[RandyH2]

The clunking is gone and the front end really does feel like a new car. Sadly, my car as new had a vibration at all speeds, more noticeable at 40+mph felt throughout the vehicle including in the seats and steering wheel- very similar to flat-spot tires except it never goes away. I immediately noticed it in the steering wheel driving home from the dealership. Only a guess, but perhaps the vibration wore the needle bearings and other bushings, etc., until there was sufficient slack in the system to allow the vibration to continue without transmitting it through the rest of the system.

 

[RandyH2]

In other words, I fully expect the suspension bits to fail again and likely sooner as the other parts are already worn. The Explorer has a potential high maintenance issue looming so I will hopefully sell it this Fall.

 

[Sixonemale]

The clunking is gone and the front end really does feel like a new car. Sadly, my car as new had a vibration at all speeds, more noticeable at 40+mph felt throughout the vehicle including in the seats and steering wheel- very similar to flat-spot tires except it never goes away. I immediately noticed it in the steering wheel driving home from the dealership. Only a guess, but perhaps the vibration wore the needle bearings and other bushings, etc., until there was sufficient slack in the system to allow the vibration to continue without transmitting it through the rest of the system.

I'm assuming you have done this, but if not, I would start with the simple stuff and get your tires balanced and have your rims checked to ensure none of them are bent.

 

[peterk9]

I assuming you done this, but if not, I would start with the simple stuff and get your tires balanced and have your rims checked to ensure none of them are bent.

See his posts on page 9 of the following thread; http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/is-this-vibration-normal.313947/
Apparently the vibration came back at some point. Others have had the same issue and I still don't consider it as being 'normal' as some have suggested. Never had the issue on my 2011.

Peter