Heated Mirrors

[massacre]

Hello,

I bought some OEM heated mirrors for my 94. It did not have heated mirrors from the factory.
I did some searching on here and seems that the consensus is that the rear window defroster switch provides timed power to the mirrors.
In looking at my wiring diagram, it appears that there are 2 different fused circuits, 1 for defrost grid and 1 for mirrors, in Limited and EB models.
I need to dig further, as the heated mirror circuit has 540, 541, 542 circuits for the mirror motors, the non heated has these circuits too. Heated has 2 additional pins, 1 is 57 circuit(common ground circuit for door) and 1 is circuit 59 which is power to the heater pad.
The connectors are different, but it looks like an O2 sensor connector, which I have spares of. I can repin the door side of the mirror harness to match. I plan to tie the 57 ground circuit into the common ground of the door, and I have some extra pins somewhere and a crimp tool so that should not be too hard to accomplish. Choosing where to take the power from is the question.

In chasing the defrost grid circuit, I am finding circuit # 185 at the grid,which quickly changes to 186. This circuit travels through a few connectors until it reaches the defrost grid timer switch.
Manual shows that on the EB and Limited, as well as the other models, the connector at the defrost switch is exactly the same, with the exact same circuits. 5 wires, cuircuits are 19, 57, 298, 688, and 186 exact same between the Limited/EB and non Limited/EB. Even the wire colors are the same : LB/R, BK, P/O, GY/LB, BR/LB, respectively. Same wire gauge and everything.

So I guess i’m Looking at this switch and guessing that the factory wiring is a little different than I thought. I don’t have a limited to look at but I was chasing some other circuits and I did find a circuit that went up to the overhead console. Is the heated mirror switch located in the overhead console on the EB/Limiteds? I never had one so I have no idea.

What i’ll Prob end up doing is just going to my fuse box and seeing if that space is open where the limiteds get their power from, then feed both heated mirrors from that, but I would like a timed switch for that circuit. I don’t want to melt the defrost switch by putting the additional load of 2 heated mirrors, so maybe I can find a switch and just install it on the dash somewhere? To be honest I have a CDL so I never use the rear view mirror anyways. I could prob live with disconnecting the rear defrost grid at the switch and simply replace that with the mirrors.

I need to think on this some more but was wondering if anyone here has done this and how they handled it. Thanks for any feedback and have a nice day!

 

[massacre]

Basically decided to go to my green parts explorer and rob the switch and connector for the defroster. Then I can mount the switch in a convenient place.
Also I remember seeing that 8 pin connector somewhere, I have a few old 90s Ford harnesses laying around maybe I can find one.

Edit- I found a similar one but it is also the male connector, looks like it goes to power distribution box. Harness is a mark/conti lincoln engine harness.
I know I have something i’ll Report back

 

[Kesp4.0]

I've got nothing to add but good luck. I have a NOS heated mirror I plan on replacing the original passenger mirror with but I'm only going to cut the connectors off of them (the old one and the new one) and add the original 3 wire connector to the new heated mirror and just not use its heat capability. Stick a convex blind spot mirror over the "heated" script and be done with it. I'll be keeping up with this to see what you do

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Long post, not sure if you figured out where the mirrors get their power.

It is timed and off the same switch as the rear defrost.

 

[massacre]

I’m debating on just getting (2) 6 pin weatherpack connectors (only 5 pins used) as a last resort, but i’m hoping I can find the right parts.

 

[massacre]

Long post, not sure if you figured out where the mirrors get their power.

It is timed and off the same switch as the rear defrost.

Sorry about the long post, thanks for this info

 

[massacre]

So I think I finally figured out how I am going to tackle these mirrors.

The non heated mirrors come with 4-pin connectors, but only use 3 pins.
Heated mirrors use 8-pin connectors, but only use 5 pins. I looked and looked and went through all my harnesses and found a couple female 8-pins that match the heated mirror 8-pin but mirror side is also female. Male 8 pin to match that is hard to find apparently, since none of my harnesses have it. I found a picture of one online not for sale but just a description. So I have given up on the idea of just installing the right connector and installing pins and being done.
I thought about splitting the harness, into (1) 4-pin connector and (1) 2-pin connector, and putting the mirror motor wires on the 4 pin and power and ground for the the heated mirrors on the 2-pin. This would make it a little easier to diagnose some problems, plus I could unplug the heated portion without losing the motor function.

Decided against that, since I am harvesting connectors from my harnesses so I needed to go with what I have available. I found (2) 8-pin connectors, both male and female sides but they are rectangular instead of round which is no big deal. But these 8-pin connectors use the “big” terminals, the OBD-I system uses both “big” and “little” sized male and female terminals. The little ones will not work in a big terminal connector.
So I took the connectors apart and between those plus some other connectors, I have 10 female and 10 male terminals, with prob 5-6” of wire on each terminal. So all I have to do is splice in the 20 wires, 10 on each side, 5 male and 5 female.

But then I started thinking about it- that is 20 butt connectors, which is not really my style, that seems kinda amateur hour-ish.
So I ordered some new terminals. 12 male and 12 female, in case I mess up. I already have the crimping tool for these terminals so I would have to disassemble the stock 8 pin heated mirror connector, removing those terminals. Then cut off the little terminals from the stock heated mirror wires, strip and install the new big male terminals on them and install into the connector. Then do the same with the other side of the connector, using the big female terminals. Then match everything up on the re-pin and then run the extra power and ground wires for the heated part, grounding the ground and connecting power to the rear defrost switch.
That is my plan for now, ordered the terminals and when they come in I will update with pics.
I also got a used pass heated mirror, will have to see how it looks when it gets here tomorrow. I will use the better looking mirror, but remove the dumb “things are closer than they appear” glass and install heater and reg glass in it so I can back up the damn truck.
I despise that type of mirror, should have always went with reg mirror with separate convex instead. I can back up a 5500 gal tanker easier than I can my 1st gen. Lmao

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Check with Bandit Customs in Texas about wiring and connectors. They turn hohum explorers into custom optioned ones and both Kris and Russell are longtime members here.

 

[massacre]

Thanks for the reply
I already ordered the terminals, once you see the pics I think you’ll get what I’m trying to do. Sorry for the wall of text I can try and post some pics tomorrow

 

[massacre]

Terminals don’t fit, I may have to modify them or just return them and look into other options. I’ll get there, it’s just hard when you can’t have the part in your hand before ordering.

 

[massacre]

I am getting the terminals to fit, and ordered the male side since the other co was out of stock. Hope to have this wrapped up soon. Once I get both sides in front of me I can take some pics as I go.

 

[CDW6212R]

As I recall, the heated mirrors just have one extra wire, and terminal. That's the one wire you need to add into the OEM door wiring connector, and run to the closest defrost wire. I've had three Limited's, and lots of time rewiring my 99. The 95-01 mirrors are a direct bolt on to the 91-94's, I'd hunt those nicer mirrors, and wire up the puddle lights to.

This is my 99 truck with my 93 Limited body(rear clip on it). So this is a 1991 front left door, on a 99 with the 99 Limited mirror.

 

[massacre]

Thanks for the reply.
I have the mirrors already. Stock non heated 1st gen mirror uses 3 wires, stock 1st gen heated mirror uses 5. The extra 2 are power and ground for the heater.

 

[CDW6212R]

Okay, the extra ground is like the extra power circuit built into the Limited model. If the 1st gens have the same large black ground wire going into the doors as the 12ga I'm familiar with in the 2nd gen, you can tap into that as you suggested before. I don't recall whether the old 93 mirrors I had were 4-wire connectors or six. You can use either, but I recall the connector being the same one for any mirror, just different numbers of terminals inside. I have swapped countless terminals in OEM connectors, you can find a suitable OEM connector if the original ones don't have enough terminals. No need to buy aftermarket stuff that is often not as good.

 

[massacre]

Yup thanks
I harvested a couple of OEM connectors from some old harnesses I had around.
Just waiting on new terminal pins so I can crimp them on and install them into the connectors.

 

[massacre]

Pins came in, the male pins seem to fit fine into the connector with no modification.
Maybe tomorrow I can get some pics of what I am trying to do.

 

[massacre]

Tonight while my coolant is draining I decided to remove the door panel and start checking this job.
I found the stock connector and removed the stock mirror. I need to install new terminals on the yellow, blue and red wires on the door side, as well as run 2 new additional wires (power and ground) into the cab. I see the convoluted rubber grommet/conduit that goes in between the door and the door jamb that all the door wires run through.
Do I have to remove the parking brake assembly to access the cabin side of that wire passage? Removed kick panel but cannot see the other side to fish the 2 additional wires through? I want to install the drivers mirror with the 2 additional wires and then connect them under the dash at a later time.
Thanks i’ll start removing the parking brake pedal assembly

 

[massacre]

Was able to remove bolts and slide parking brake pedal assembly down enough to access the wiring ports for the drivers door. Looking for a coat hanger now lol

 

[massacre]

Was able to get the mirror installed, new terminal pins on wires and connectors repinnned and matched to each other. Mirror moves up down left right. Haven’t hooked a battery up to the mirror yet to see if the heated part works. New connector even mounts in the stock location. The only thing is the stock connectors have weather seals on them and the ones I used do not. I do have some seals but they are round and the connector has squares. I may try those plus some tape to try and keep it dry.

I took some pics but they need to be gone over and edited but I tried to get decent shots to show what I was doing. My garage is a cave so the lighting might be crappy.
I’m happy with the job so far, I need to go back in and make some small adjustments but the mirror motors are functioning at least. Also still need to put the parking brake assembly back together and run the ground wire and connect the heated mirror power to the defroster switch.

 

[massacre]

The purpose of this mission was to get the mirror installed and motors functioning, and (2) wires run for the heated portion of the drivers side mirror. One power and one ground.
Once I was able to establish a connection between the cabin and the door, I tried fishing a coathanger through the rubber door accordion, with not a lot of success. I didn’t want to remove the grommet. Well I did remove the grommet and i’m glad I did because that was the key to success as being able to bend and manipulate the rubber door accordion made it possible. Once I removed the grommet I was presented with this:

Then I stuck a coat hanger through from the door side but I had to round the end to keep from getting hung up on the accordion bellows haha. That looked like this:

Then I was able to fish the two wires (taped together) from the cabin up, and at an angle from behind where the kick panel goes (with parking brake assembly removed and moved out of the way and the rubber membrane/gasket pulled away from the inside of the door jamb), through the grommet hole on the outside of the door jamb and through the eyelet of the end of the coathanger. Taped it together and it pulled through like butter.

And then put the grommet back in