HHO: Is it alchemy? Or will it improve gas mileage on a ’99 4.0 SOHC Explorer? | Page 42 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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HHO: Is it alchemy? Or will it improve gas mileage on a ’99 4.0 SOHC Explorer?

So, without using a dyno, how, exactly, would one scientifically and analytically analyze the change in fuel economy due to adding an HHO generator to the system??? Fuel mileage tracked by the driver on an open road in an uncontrolled set of operating conditions, no matter how 'accurately' they are tracked, are estimates at BEST. You might *think* you drive the same ever time, but as humans, it's just not possible... there are far, far too many variables outside our control to get an accurate result. It's just not possible.

So, again, how would you propose one obtain factual, accurate data on the effects of an HHO system on an engine's efficiency without a dyno??

I think you are missing the point...if I am wrong please let me know. We don't care about scientific analysis. Yes I agree that nobody drives the same every minute of every day, but we are not trying to convince anyone that HHO works. If I spend consistantly between $22 & $25 in gas every week and I drive the same mileage every week and if I install an HHO generator and I start spending say between $15 & $18 a week...I'm happy! It's not a windfall just 7 bucks, but it's 7 buck in my pocket!

Now, if I were marketing a complete system to you & making claims of fuel savings, then as a consumer you should DEMAND scentific proof to justify what your hard earned dollars are paying for and to ensure you are not buying "Magic Elixir"

But the critical difference is that the airplane and the microwave, and the horseless carriage were all based on sound scientific principles, not some high school science experiment someone cooked up in a garage after a high school electrolysis experiment. (airplane = bernoulli's principle, microwave = Percy Spencer's magnetron research for Raytheon, horseless carriage is ultimately based on fire... a cave-man principle)

But again, they were all based on an idea. The Cray Super Computer took up entire rooms to do less than what my laptop can do.
Are you not trying to sell us on the presumption that it somehow works??

I am selling nothing since I don't know that it works. I will do my own reseach, testing & documentation. I will not monitarily benefit from your attempting your own trials or acceptance of my research should I succeed.

More importantly, when "I" feel that this is not a viable solution for me, I will be the first to admit that if it is, it was not within my reach. I cannot & will not undermine the potential of others who may have success where I fall short.

Ok I'm off my soapbox now!
 



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Forgive me if I say anything that has been already been discussed but I have not been following this thread for some time, I'm responding to Cabrera's PM.

This is my 5th version of My HHO. I have never tried using it on my Explorer so I don't have any information on fuel economy change. The reason I have not tried it is because I determined through bench testing my units that they will not produce enough Hydrogen to make a noticeable difference in fuel economy.

I actually stopped working on this months ago. I realized that I have hit a wall and no matter how well the HHO is built and what voltages/amperage used the Hydrogen output will not increase unless additives are added to the electrolyte. In my research I found that to get the best output KOH (Potassium Hydroxide) needs to be added to distilled water. Lab grade KOH is not available locally, and must be ordered, which in cures a shipping expense which in my mind nulls the effect of saving a few dollars a week on fuel.

Here Is the Gen

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJKVd5wnoVk

IMG_0070-2.jpg


IMG_0072-2.jpg


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJKVd5wnoVk
 






42 pages an no legitimate results, And I'll tell you why.

Thank you Gijoecam for actually know why the dyno testing is important. Apparently nobody has ever heard of a rolling road dyno. Funny high school and college kids have been doing this for 20 years to tune there vehicles yet not a single soul with HHO has Really? 42 pages of, I'm trying this, tried that, on my 5th kit, ect ect.

It's is clear that people who do this do not know how a computer on the car determines how much fuel is to be injected. This is why you have sensors on the vehicle. These are the people that still by the 30hp chips that are nothing more than a 25 cent 4.7K Ohm resister to plug into the IAT sensor to try to fool the computer.

The whole theory and it's just that because will not see any testing to show the Air fuel ratio differences with the system on. For this systems therorized effect of making your car use less fuel the computer would have to magically demand less fuel and run the engine leaner than it is programed to do (Won't happen on a OBD-2 vehicle period. Your computer will put the car in limp home mode when it goes dangerously lean over any prolonged period of time and you will throw check engine codes such as lean bank 1 or lean bank 2. How do you guys not know this info?

There is a limit to how lean the engine can be run, as lean operation can significantly reduce the power output due to a reduction in the volumetric heating value of the air/fuel mixture.

Hydrogen has very low ignition energy. The amount of energy needed to ignite hydrogen is about one order of magnitude less than that required for gasoline. This enables hydrogen engines to ignite lean mixtures and ensures prompt ignition.

Unfortunately, the low ignition energy means that hot gases and hot spots on the cylinder can serve as sources of ignition, creating problems of premature ignition and flashback. Preventing this is one of the challenges associated with run-ning an engine on hydrogen. What does that mean?

When you turn these kits on your engine knock sensors go ape sh*t and the knock count goes through the roof. This is a FACT!! HOW do you guys not know this! This is something a dyno also measures is knock count. Did you know for ever degree of knock your computer pulls 3 degree's of timing? Do you know ever degree of timing is 3hp lost?? So your actually loosing power with these kits that's why the claims of fuel economy is laughable.

Do you also not know detonation cause damage to your engine?? and shortens it's life. If you did not know knock is detonation. Also why the dyno testing is important to measure the knock count and ignition timing, this is stuff that a 18yr old civic owner knows for crying out loud.

More facts that totally destroy all the techno babble of these systems, These are not theory.

Small Quenching Distance
Hydrogen has a small quenching distance, smaller than gasoline. Consequently, hydrogen flames travel closer to the cylinder wall than other fuels before they extinguish. Thus, it is more difficult to quench a hydrogen flame than a gasoline flame. The smaller quenching distance can also increase the tendency for backfire since the flame from a hydrogen-air mixture more readily passes a nearly closed intake valve, than a hydrocarbon-air flame.

High Autoignition Temperature
Hydrogen has a relatively high autoignition temperature. This has important implications when a hydrogen-air mixture is compressed. In fact, the autoignition temperature is an important factor in determining what compression ratio an engine can use, since the temperature rise during compression is related to the compression ratio. Hmm what does this mean, simple the normal gas engine does not have the compression ratio to properly and safely burn hydrogen gas without pre-ignition/detonation. How is this a secret?

Low Density
Hydrogen has very low density, why is this a problem? power output, is reduced. Will happen every time you slap one of these on the rollers.

Next a FACT! also easily proven on a dyno test. Feel free to ask any chemical engineer about these numbers they are nuts on accurate.

Air/Fuel Ratio
The theoretical or stoichiometric combustion of hydrogen and oxygen is given as:
2H2 + O2
= 2H2O
Moles of H2 for complete combustion
= 2 moles
Moles of O2 for complete combustion
= 1 mole
Because air is used as the oxidizer instead oxygen, the nitro-gen in the air needs to be included in the calculation:
Moles of N2 in air
= Moles of O2 x (79% N2 in air / 21% O2 in air)
= 1 mole of O2 x (79% N2 in air / 21% O2 in air)
= 3.762 moles N2
Number of moles of air
= Moles of O2 + moles of N2
= 1 + 3.762
= 4.762 moles of air
Weight of O2
= 1 mole of O2 x 32 g/mole
= 32 g
Weight of N2
= 3.762 moles of N2 x 28 g/mole
= 105.33 g
Weight of air
= weight of O2 + weight of N (1)
= 32g + 105.33 g
= 137.33 g
Weight of H2
= 2 moles of H2 x 2 g/mole
= 4 g
Stoichiometric air/fuel (A/F) ratio for hydrogen and air is:
A/F based on mass:
= mass of air/mass of fuel
= 137.33 g / 4 g
= 34.33:1
A/F based on volume:
= volume (moles) of air/volume (moles) of fuel
= 4.762 / 2
= 2.4:1
The percent of the combustion chamber occupied by hydro-gen for a stoichiometric mixture:
% H2
= volume (moles) of H2/total volume (2)
= volume H2/(volume air + volume of H2)
= 2 / (4.762 + 2)
= 29.6%

Now what do all these numbers mean as a most will confused by all of this.

As these calculations show, the stoichiometric or chemically correct A/F ratio for the complete combustion of hydrogen in air is about 34:1 by mass. This means that for complete combustion, 34 pounds of air are required for every pound of hydrogen. This is much higher than the 14.7:1 A/F ratio required for gasoline.
Since hydrogen is a gaseous fuel at ambient conditions it displaces more of the combustion chamber than a liquid fuel. Consequently less of the combustion chamber can be occupied by air. At stoichiometric conditions, hydrogen dis-places about 30% of the combustion chamber, compared to about 1 to 2% for gasoline.

So what does that mean? It means it does not work like you guys claim or all the other water4gas and every other person or company selling or promoting these systems.

As with gasoline engines, unburnt fuel can seep by the piston rings and enter the crankcase. Since hydrogen has a lower energy ignition limit than gasoline, any unburnt hydrogen entering the crankcase has a greater chance of igniting. Hydrogen should be prevented from accumulating through ventilation. What does this mean, You need crackcase ventilation that's if you were using a system that actually worked, ALL and let me repeat this ALL this bubbler systems are pure junk. You can put all the time and money into you like your injecting it wrong and unsafely and you do not have the power in a cars battery or altenator to make any real significant volume and thank god for that because you would just damage your motor anyways.

Now having said all that can you actually use hydrogen in a internal combustion engine to get better fuel economy, yes can you get it from this low flow cheesy bubbles, the answer is hell no. You can add all the plates you want it's not going to produce enough with your meager 13.45v from your cars battery Period.

Second the disadvantage of central injection is that it is more susceptible to irregular combustion due to pre-ignition and backfire. The greater amount of hydrogen/air mixture within the intake manifold compounds the effects of pre-ignition. Why would you add something to your car that is adding detonation?

Detonation also increases Exhaust gas temps, and engine operating temps, This it's why I laugh when these scam sites try to say it reduces emission when it actually increases NOX output.

The combustion of hydrogen with air also produce oxides of nitrogen (NOx):
H2 + O2 + N2 = H2O + N2 + NOx DUHHH! How is this a secret??

Do a emissions test surely you cannot say you can't afford to do that? If multiple facts are a lie how much truth is in the rest??

None of these systems are hydrogen fuel cells nor is your none modified internal combustion engine designed to burn the addition of hydrogen efficiently or even safely.

Why is it that these simple fact never appear on 42 page thread. Please feel free to disprove any fact that I have stated. Better yet find one single solitary piece of evidence not testimony or some company selling these fact dyno or emission test because not one site has a real one. Then you can prove me wrong.

The sad truth 90% of the proponents of these kits don't know jack about how the combustion process actually works or about the details of the modern internal combustion engine.

So if you like detonation, higher emissions, higher exhaust gas temperatures, higher engine oil temps, the risk of hydrogen gas in your crankcase igniting, cooked 02 sensors, shorter sparkplug life, increase carbon build up on valves, piston tops, then use away in ignorant bliss my friends. You will not find one ASE Certified master mechanic who will dispute these facts.
 






Forgive me if I say anything that has been already been discussed but I have not been following this thread for some time, I'm responding to Cabrera's PM.

This is my 5th version of My HHO. I have never tried using it on my Explorer so I don't have any information on fuel economy change. The reason I have not tried it is because I determined through bench testing my units that they will not produce enough Hydrogen to make a noticeable difference in fuel economy.

Now to me, this is an honest FIRST HAND observation. MustangP51 is not quoting theory he is stating his observation & results. I respect that because he "ACTUALLY DID THE WORK".

What I cannot understand (and it really puzzeled me) is why someone with no vested interest would dedicate so much effort & time to make long & involved posts like dvldoc does. In speaking to other members totally outside the subject matter, we assumed he was a Navy corpsman due to his handle. Then I noticed the small link under his signature.

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/bilalgtp/Ad-300x250-001copy.jpg

Which is for this company?

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/

Who sell Alcohol Water Injectors to improve performance hence the preoccupation with the dyno.

Are you a dealer for DevilsOwn or are you Billal Muhammad the owner of DevilsOwn?
Either way at least now I can understand your obsession.

Better yet find one single solitary piece of evidence not testimony or some company selling these fact dyno or emission test because not one site has a real one. Then you can prove me wrong.

Quite honestly, our drive is not to "prove you wrong" we are trying to improve our gas mileage. If we are persuing a pipe dream, then let us smoke it in peace!
 






The whole theory and it's just that because will not see any testing to show the Air fuel ratio differences with the system on. For this systems therorized effect of making your car use less fuel the computer would have to magically demand less fuel and run the engine leaner than it is programed to do (Won't happen on a OBD-2 vehicle period. Your computer will put the car in limp home mode when it goes dangerously lean over any prolonged period of time and you will throw check engine codes such as lean bank 1 or lean bank 2. How do you guys not know this info?

There is a limit to how lean the engine can be run, as lean operation can significantly reduce the power output due to a reduction in the volumetric heating value of the air/fuel mixture.

Hydrogen has very low ignition energy. The amount of energy needed to ignite hydrogen is about one order of magnitude less than that required for gasoline. This enables hydrogen engines to ignite lean mixtures and ensures prompt ignition.

Unfortunately, the low ignition energy means that hot gases and hot spots on the cylinder can serve as sources of ignition, creating problems of premature ignition and flashback. Preventing this is one of the challenges associated with run-ning an engine on hydrogen. What does that mean?

Thank you for gracing us with your knowledge on the subject, however you are wrong about a few things. Hydrogen burns about 10% cooler then gasoline therefore with the correct EMS Engine Management System Hydrogen by itself will not cause pre-ignition. The majority of the time Pre-Ignition is caused by carbon deposits, not the cylinder walls. Since Hydrogen burns much cleaner then gasoline my guess is that there will be less carbon deposits in the engine so there will be less pre-ignition.

You also expect me to believe that on every engine 1 degree of ignition retardation = a loss of 3hp? Please get over yourself.

You will not find one ASE Certified master mechanic who will dispute these facts.

I am a FAA certified Aircraft Mechanic, Airframe/Powerplant and I dispute some of these facts.
 






Thank you for gracing us with your knowledge on the subject, however you are wrong about a few things. Hydrogen burns about 10% cooler then gasoline therefore with the correct EMS Engine Management System Hydrogen by itself will not cause pre-ignition. The majority of the time Pre-Ignition is caused by carbon deposits, not the cylinder walls. Since Hydrogen burns much cleaner then gasoline my guess is that there will be less carbon deposits in the engine so there will be less pre-ignition.

You also expect me to believe that on every engine 1 degree of ignition retardation = a loss of 3hp? Please get over yourself.



I am a FAA certified Aircraft Mechanic, Airframe/Powerplant and I dispute some of these facts.

Aircraft engines and auto engines are different, in so many ways especially on things like compression stroke fuel delivery ect. I never said hydrogen burns hotter than gas it said it pre-ignites early in the combustion process. I don't know what's not clear about that.

Hydrogen has very low ignition energy. The amount of energy needed to ignite hydrogen is about one order of magnitude less than that required for gasoline. This enables hydrogen engines to ignite lean mixtures and ensures prompt ignition.

Unfortunately, the low ignition energy means that hot gases and hot spots on the cylinder can serve as sources of ignition, creating problems of premature ignition and flashback. Preventing this is one of the challenges associated with run-ning an engine on hydrogen. What does that mean?
Are you saying this basic chemical fact is wrong?? Have you ever measured the EGT's on a vehicle with these systems to see if they rise or fall, I have.

The quote above has Zero! to do with burning temp in the combustion chamber, when you raise the temperature of the combustion chamber with pre-ignition you create more NOX which is what makes carbon deposits. You can get detention the exact same way by adding propane injection to a vehicle they actually have enough flow and psi to audibly here the knocking. These systems do not nor ever will. Non can even create 1psi of pressure.

Second yes on the average vehicle the PCM demands pull around 3 degrees of timing for every degree of knock, I'm pretty sure I've dyno tested and tuned enough vehicle to know this by now. It's actually pretty darn common knowledge, it's in almost ever GM PCM. Pulling time is a way to reduce damage to the engine. Just like when you do a dyno tune you can see how your knock count and ignition timing. The fact that you say do you expect me to believe that basically proves the point. You can ask any tuner about the knock vs ignition timing feel free.

Does not common scenes dictate that you use all these kinds of test to tune you supposed HHO generators considering this is what everyone who tunes there vehicle does. Plenty of engine management computers out there and add on's that allow the scanning and changing of many aspect of how your engine runs. You have high school and college kids tunning EVO's WRX, and everything else under the sun, are you guys telling everyone 43 pages later, 6 yeas later nobody has any simple test to very efficiency like the vehicle fuel being reduced when the system is on via the computer., EGT's, ignition timing, air fuel ratio. This thread can be check next year and none of these will be done even by the.

Feel free to play with it all you like, the old devils done on this one.
 






Thank you for gracing us with your knowledge on the subject, however you are wrong about a few things. Hydrogen burns about 10% cooler then gasoline therefore with the correct EMS Engine Management System Hydrogen by itself will not cause pre-ignition. The majority of the time Pre-Ignition is caused by carbon deposits, not the cylinder walls. Since Hydrogen burns much cleaner then gasoline my guess is that there will be less carbon deposits in the engine so there will be less pre-ignition.

You also expect me to believe that on every engine 1 degree of ignition retardation = a loss of 3hp? Please get over yourself.



I am a FAA certified Aircraft Mechanic, Airframe/Powerplant and I dispute some of these facts.
:bsnicker::bsnicker:
Sorry Im not smart enough to argue this one:confused: I was however thinking about the title of this thread. So I guess this is really the thread to argue about this. So maybe the HHO guys that are actively perusing this should start another thread to share ideas and not argue the points. What I dont understand is some of the smartest people in this thread spend so much time replying with write ups of why it wont work instead of helping to find a solution. Since I have nothing useful to add or say I think I will pack it up.
 






Josh, its easier to talk about something than to do something.
 






I want to thank Josh for passing on to me his tank...It was extremely generous of him. I am going to endeavor to proceed with the experiment and hopefully collaborating with the more experienced users here we can make more headway!:thumbsup:
 






Whether HHO works or not would depend on altering the air/fuel(gasoline) ratio and timing of the engine. the rarity of someone altering the PCM programming makes this idea very hard for most. The key would be how the programming is changed, how much the A/F(gasoline) can be lowered(timing changes too), and the actual results.

There are so few people who have a clue about how to measure fuel use usefully, that results are hard to trust. Dyno testing with a non moving vehicle doesn't tell much. The best PCM programming comes from on road tuning. That's how the results of the HHO testing have to come, or else they are not reliable. It's doubtful that this is going to work, but it's still a nice thought. It just seems so unlikely now, that not much is going to be done in the future with it.
 






I do have a question for you. Josh gave me his tank and shortstack had suggested the following
^^^^^^ that looks good, with all those being +- +- +- +- +- ect, you might have heat/amp problems, i would have at least put 2 N plates, looks awsome though hope to see some results :thumbsup:
I'm in the process of revamping his tank and a wanted to ask you where would be the best location for the neutal plates? Also I got his tank which the plates are wired. I also have instructions for a similar tank, but it is wired differently. Which is correct?
the A TANK
A%20Tank.jpg



Or the B TANK

B%20Tank.jpg


My main concern is of course safety and Hydrogen production. Any suggestions would be immensly appreciated!
Thanx
 






Not getting much response on this thread anymore. Heres an Explorer question:

I have a 2002 Explorer Sport Trac which I know has a MAF sensor instead of a MAP sensor. Now does this have MAF sensor uses a voltage signal to the vehicles computer or does it have a MAF sensor that uses a frequency signal to the vehicle computer?
 






MAF is voltage, 0.0 to 5.0 volts.
 












Ok,

It appears that the ECU and all the sensors on the newer vehicles will be a PITA. My initial testing will be on a 1974 VW beetle. Using this car has both advantages & disadvantages.
On the plus side, it's a basic internal combustion engine. No electronics. On the negative side mileage calculation will have to be done old school. Miles/Gallons used. I will be driving the same route and driving style, but of course this is far from a controlled environment and it will be an estimate.
Next vehicle will either be a 1984 XJ6 or a 1986 BMW. Both have a little more electronics but no OBD2 port. Both cars do have onboard computers which calculate mileage.
Ultimately I will have my Sport Trac set up on this. Once I can enhance the electronics. The plus point is in VA (of at least Hampton Roads) We do not need emissins testing for inspection (unlike NJ where I came from which was almost as bad as California). I've seen people here remove their cats & pass safety inspection!
 






Question:

My Explorer Sport Trac has 3 O2 Sensors (There are 2 upstream, and 1 downstream after the cat)
Should I put extenders on just the 2 on the downpipes after the manifolds or all 3?
 






Question:

My Explorer Sport Trac has 3 O2 Sensors (There are 2 upstream, and 1 downstream after the cat)
Should I put extenders on just the 2 on the downpipes after the manifolds or all 3?

The O2 sensor that is downstream from the cat is for the OBD2 test for cat efficiency - it doesn't have any effect on fuel injector timing. The two sensors upstream are used to monitor and adjust fuel / air ratio(s).
 












After some testing I abandoned the traditional "Wet Cell" design for 2 main reasons.

1. Asthetics. No matter how pretty you make it, it still comes to a container filled with water ( & electrolyte) that gets HOT! The engine compartment, as we all know, is not the coolest place on a Trac.

2. Size. The Tracs don't really have much room under the hood. Placing this unit there is difficult. I did find that we have room in front of the radiator, behind the grill. It gets great airflow and it is normally useless space.

Additionally, problems like overheating, current leakage and a host of other dangerous factors make the open bath type impractical.

I did learn a lot from the design. Again I want to thank Josh for his contribution. I had to take it apart to make changes and I will eventually use it on my riding mower

So that said I build a new "Dry Cell".
It is made with plates that are Precision cut 3" X 7" Corrosion Resistant High Moly Stainless Steel. The plates were cross hatch and rotary sanded and then cleansed in an Ultrasonic cleaner at 40,000 Hz leaving them microscopically clean. The plates were sealed between high temperature 1/16" thick EPDM gaskets. The end plates were manufactured from 1/2" high grade, high temperature Cast Acrylic. The end plates measure only 4-3/16" X 7-3/4". They are held in place with 1/4" X 20 Zink plated bolts.

Next phase is to do bench testing on this unit for capacity. After that I will have to fabricate some electronics to make adjustments to the ECU

SO... in short here it is.

You remember the old wet cell

0718091601.jpg


I made the new hotness.

0811090913.jpg


0811090913a.jpg


Now the fun begins.
 



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You are going to have some type of electrolyte in your "dry cell" right?
 






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