Joining the bandwagon, my 4L OHV build

im far enough in this to not turn back, so ill start this thread now.

starting with a truck that hasent been driven in 2 years before i got it. so its really dirty, ticks, needs some help.
im going for a mild top end rebuild. just a nice cleaning and new parts, upgraded performance parts. with a nice coat of paint to finish it up.
update: turned into full rebuild


parts list:

• 2643 ANCHOR - drivers motor mount (rockauto)
• 2641 ANCHOR - passenger motor mount (rockauto)
• SP432 MOTORCRAFT - spark plugs (autozone)
• WR4062 MOTORCRAFT - plug wire set (rockauto)
• KS2358 FELPRO - full gasket set (autozone)
• PR422 DNJ/ROCK ENGINE - pistion ring set (rockauto)
• m328 MELLING - high flow oil pump (summitracing)
• 432217 VISTA-PRO - ready rad radiator (summitracing)
• E71531 DAYCO - upper radiator hose (autozone)
• B71532 DAYCO - lower radiator hose (autozone)
• 200-87684 DAYCO - heater-to-thermostat hose (autozone)
• 200-87715 DAYCO - heater-to-water pump hose (autozone)
• 58390 A-1 CARDONE - reman waterpump, they sent a 97tm (rockauto)
• 300-942 DORMAN - water pump pulley (rockauto)
• 300-004 DORMAN - power steering pulley (autozone)
• 49237 GOODYEAR - belt tensioner (rockauto)
• 5968 HAYDEN AUTOMOTIVE - idler pulley (rockauto)
• 49-410-8 COMP CAMS - camshaft (summitracing)
• R1092 SEALED POWER - rocker arms (rockauto)
• VS1630 SEALED POWER - valve springs (rockauto)
• sev-2027 SI VALVES - exhaust valves (sivalves.com)
• sev-2028 SI VALVES - intake valves (sivalves.com)
• UP94172S ULTRAPOWER - timing chain kit (rockauto)
• 25053 CRANKSHAFT SUPPLY - reman crankshaft with bearings (rockauto)
• 70mm 94/95 Mustang GT Cobra 19/24lb MAF (ebay)
• ebay link - 90tm/93tm cylinder heads
• ebay link - matched set of injectors
• EF link - modded stock throttle body
• GM3115200 chevrolet HHR electric fan from EF member
• FAN-PWN-V3 SPAL fan controller from EF member
• 1633S-1 JBA - headers and y-pipe used from EF member

later upgrades: 200amp alternator, underdrive/overdrive pulleys. maybe other stuff as i get ideas

 

[YBCold]

what about jacking the car up and removing the wheels to get to it? torch and PB blaster?

 

[Anime]

The Y-pipe to manifold bolts are pretty strong, so even ones that have rusted in there for 150,000 miles will come out if you clean up the threads, soak then with spray penetrant/liquid wrench every hour so it gets down in the manifold threads, and have a good shot at them with an extension bar and long enough breaker bar. I'd suggest a 3/8" rather than a 1/2" drive so you don't snap it, but even if you do, the Y-pipe will come off and you can drill what's left of the manfold out. Or not and just get aftermarket headers and a Y-pipe.

Looks like a great truck and a fun project. I would have suggested an engine/engine bay degrease and cleaning before pulling it in and taking it apart though.

Oh and that starter...is that a rebuild? It looks brand spanking new.

 

[Xeek]

jd, i was at sears. i couldnt find one. they all cut at a right angle. i need the handle perpendicular to the cutting wheel.

ybcold, this is with the wheels off, wheel wells off. :/


anime, i new a new(used) set of jbas with y-pipe so im not worried about cutting the stock ones up. ive tried a breaker bar also. if it wasnt for the rain id continue drilling a hole through the bolts til they snapped. i got halfway on one last night.

engine was degreased some. i dont care i like getting dirty

starter is refurbished, installed juneish(?) by the one and only jd. you shouldve seen the old one. and jd, this one was just as dirty when i took it out. it cleaned up nice since it wasnt X,x..,x.. year old grease

 

[Xeek]

the rocker arms. along with a sawzall i got tonight for $48.29, fun tool

 

[Brandon96]

Can I get some details on those rocker arms? I'm unfortunately forced to run stockers for the time being

Edit - I see they're RockAuto's but when you get the chance can you compare them to the OEM's? I was hoping to save up and get those without having to get new length pushrods.. Are the cupped on the Pushrod side?

 

[Xeek]

ill take a picture for you. but yes they are

maybe ill try and take the cover off and yank one off and take a pic of em both

 

[Brandon96]

Crap.. by pushrod side.. I meant to say valve side. My fault!!

 

[Xeek]

honestly i have no idea which side is which, i just know theres a cupped area lol
i havent taught myself that far yet. everything i know comes from google searches and history/discovery/science channels etc. i didnt learn **** in school


pic:

 

[Brandon96]

haha, that's exactly how I'm learnin.. kinda. Just take it all apart, learn as you go, and put it all back together again. As long as you have 1-3 bolts/nuts/screws/pieces left over your doing great!

In the picture, the right hand side is the pushrod side, the left hand sits atop the springs and taps down on top of the valve. They appear to exactly resemble the stock rockers though. I've been getting mixed messages regarding the exact specs, whether or not they match the stock dimensions or not. I guess I'll give them a call. The only thing I see is the valve side is not as smooth as the OEM ones.. Hmm not sure why

Do me a favor and hang on to your old OEM rockers, I'm gonna make sure they are the same specs as mine, and I might buy the ones that are in decent shape, if any, from you if that would be cool..

 

[boominXplorer]

If you need the trans cooler hard line I have one off a 99 that might fit.

 

[Xeek]

you said the left hand side doesnt look as smooth? i didnt capture it in the pic due to the dof but its smooth with fine scratches. the middle section is what looks rough to me. its still smooth tho
cupped side=pushrod, 'arm' side=valve in valve springs, hole in middle=hold all 6 together on a bar, middle flat spot=?,
and where do the lifters fit in this?

ill be keeping EVERYTHING i take off, just incase anyone wants to buy something. so yea, ill let you know. i may try and crack em open before i remove the engine just to look


boomin, ill keep you in mind, thatll be wayyy down the road once its going back together





i wish i could find a manual for the engine. itd be nice to look at it and learn. i found a nice detailed pdf for a a4ld tho

 

[Brandon96]

Middle flat spot I think is where they cut them off the mold when they cast them, or it's a balance weight.. I unno, I think it's irrelevant. The lifters are at the other end of the pushrods, they actually seat in the block itself and roll along the camshaft.

 

[Xeek]

counter weight sounds plausable. i think today if its not crappy again ill try and cut into the exhaust more and when i get mad at them for not coming off ill open the valve covers lol
i need to further grind down the butterfly shaft in the tb also. sounds like a plan.

 

[Anime]

Yikes..from Rockauto those Sealed Power rockers are $12.45 EACH. $149 for 12.

Complete new rocker assembles from Ford, with rockers, shafts, springs, bolts, etc. are $85 through Tousley Ford. $170 total.

Just sayin'. I know it's bucks, but rockers seem to be a big issue on the 4.0's so I think it's worth spending the dough.

Also it's not the rockers that will cause you to need different length pushrods than stock, it's the cam. You can kinda get away with stock length ones with a 410 cam, but a 422 cam needs the longer ones for sure, along with the head work, double springs, etc. etc.

Oh and if you can break the bolts on the manifolds, just use a 1/2" breaker bar and go ahead and snap 'em. Heck of a lot faster than cutting up in there.

 

[Xeek]

i paid $149.15. extra 3 day shipping too. i had found a coupon and ended up paying less then the parts with no shipping included lol
ford parts and a nice price considering you get everything. but being its the ford parts that keep wearing out im glad i spent it on these.

i got the 410 so i should be ok but jd has the measuring tool so may as well measure just to make sure. you never know




payday is coming. more stuff will be coming soon after. its KILLING me that i cant drive my truck. and i want to hear the engine so damn bad lol

 

[jd4242]

It is the rockers alos.some come at different ratio. Like delta cams grinds one side so it sit lower on the spring.the hole on those look way bigger than delta.if they use the same rods i might switch to them.im off tomorrow but im nose deep in this gear/axle swap,but if i got time ill try and stop bye and check out the progress. Ill say you have learn and came a far way since the starter!! Haha most would have thrown the towel in!! Keep up the good work bro!!

 

[Xeek]

i hear you on the axle. i wanna be doing that myself after this is done. that starter was a pain in the ass lol. got oil/crud in my eye taking it off. had to get the garden hose it burned so bad. then i sprayed the hell out of the bottom of the truck and cleaned the starter after(which is why it looks new). said to myself 'see if you get oil in my eye again you female-dog' lol

believe me, ive thought about quitting but im a very, very patient person. i just stop and think about itll never be complete again if i stop then i get my ass back to work lol
also the thought of hearing the first engine ive ever built fire up for the first time keeps me going

i have everyone to thank on here for all the info on getting me to what i know now and i hope to learn even more.

 

[jd4242]

^hahaaha i got a metal shaving in my ear and had to go to the ER i swore i would never work on it again but hey that was 3 years ago and many motors ago!!!!

 

[Brandon96]

...the thought of hearing the first engine ive ever built fire up for the first time keeps me going...

thats for DARN sure! Amen Brother!

 

[jd4242]

thats for DARN sure! Amen Brother!

Not the first ive heard but pulln up next to another X and them swearing i got a v8 or anyone swearing it brings a smile to my face EVERYTIME!!