My Rear End is Being a ..."Rear-End"...

[Hogitall]

Hello All-

My 1998 Explorer XLT, 4-Door, 4.0 SOHC, auto trans, 2 wheel drive, Rear Axle Code 42 and from researching it, is a "C"onventional not a "non-slip" 4:10:1 ratio Rear End - with a mere 312,000 miles on it has decided to take a rest during a very busy schedule that I am in the middle of currently by either shearing a rear axle or...well..let me just describe what has happened instead of giving my opinion of what did. It's had the "whine" noise for a while now. My "a while" being probably over 100k miles and last night it got steadily louder and louder within about 5-6 miles range and as I pulled off into a parking lot there was a loud " bang" ..."grind..grind"...so of course I stopped. As I tried to move forward it would go for about 10 feet and then start slipping and making a loud grinding noise and would not "go" for lack of a better term. It would coast but wasn't grabbing..just slipping. It was a little bit better grab in reverse so I managed to get it parked. When I got it home (had it towed) and I removed the differential cover, pieces of what appear to be a bearing fell out or were at least in the bottom of the housing. I will try to post the pics I took. I am a "only if I have to"..mechanic" when it comes to the major stuff that in the last year has replaced my entire A/C System, brakes Master cylinder, I do my own tune ups, not oil changes because it's so cheap just to have it done, etc. So I am willing to give this a go and am wanting your opinion(s) on to what the extent damage has been done and if it is even worth it to fix. Again...it has 312,000 miles of which all but 25k are mine. I change the oil every 5k (not synthetic I might add) and while it will require some front end work and shocks soon...is a pretty sound vehicle still. I would like to keep it so is it just a bearing(s)? and/or axle shaft(s)? and/or is the entire rear end needing replaced? I am reluctantly willing to spend up to about $1200 to have it repaired but if i can save half of that, I will do it myself. And if I do what all do I need to buy? (Not tools just parts) ....Thx.

 

[IZwack]

Easiest approach at this point I guess is to get a junk yard axle.

But if you want to repair what you have: you'll need a new set of ring and pinion gears, and a master install kit. You'll also need a few set of tools (dial indicator with a magnetic base probably being the most important) if you don't already have them. If the carrier is dead, you'll also need a new one and probably a new set of spider gears (31 spline, not 28). While you have the axle shaft pulled out, dont forget to replace the axle seals and bearings at the end of the tubes.

 

[Hogitall]

It doesn't appear that the pinion gear or even the cluster is badly damaged. I also showed the pics to a friend that is more of a mechanic than myself and he was surprised how well the gears looked. He was of the thinking that maybe a bearing went to pieces and threw an axle shaft out of alignment and possibly sheared the end of an axle...sheared the splines on it...? If I am recalling correctly.
Also, I don't really want to rebuild the entire rear end myself, ie, reset all the gears. I am willing to replace bearings, seals and even the axle shaft(s) if needed. Beyond that I will probably take it in to have done and just bite the bullet on cost. Or weigh whether it's worth doing at all...

 

[IZwack]

Yeah I was jumping to conclusions put the pics up and lets have a see.

 

[Hogitall]

Easiest approach at this point I guess is to get a junk yard axle.

Is it difficult to replace the entire axle and differential? What does it entail? Special tools? I was quoted $600 for a used one from a junkyard..

 

[Hogitall]

Easiest approach at this point I guess is to get a junk yard axle.

Is it difficult to replace the entire axle and differential? What does it entail? Special tools? I was quoted $600 for a used one from a junkyard..

I can't see where to attach pics...ugh. Maybe I'm too new..?

 

[IZwack]

Call around - the junk yards here have axles for like ~150 complete (but you have to remove it from the vehicle). As to swapping axle assemblies, its all bolt on and you can do it in one day, two at most.

How to post pics: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=147920

 

[Hogitall]

I have found a shop to replace the rear end for a reasonable price and am going to let them do it. Thanks for the information!

 

[alohamonte]

just curious what a reasonablep price is since my rear diff has been whining for a few thousand miles now

 

[andrewlcarson]

Same problem with mine. I have had the whine for a while now and I am taking it to a transmission shop to let them see what the real problem is. I asked for a differential change price and its going to run me around $500.

 

[gmanpaint]

Swapping the rear axle is more of a physical pain than a mental one.

Readers digest version:
Remove E-brake cable ends, rear drive shaft. Set vehicle on jack stands and remove wheels. Remove brake line on Drivers side at the junction. Disconnect the rear sensor on the top of the diff. Unbolt the U-bolts on the axle. Either unbolt, or leave the shocks on the plates. Remove the axle (note the centering pin function on the leafs).

To install newer axle, reverse the directions, replace dif fluids, & bleed the brakes

Air tools= 2-4 hours. Hand tools= 4-6 hours.

You can do this and save big shop charges!!

 

[Baddecision93]

Swapping the rear axle is more of a physical pain than a mental one.

Readers digest version:
Remove E-brake cable ends, rear drive shaft. Set vehicle on jack stands and remove wheels. Remove brake line on Drivers side at the junction. Disconnect the rear sensor on the top of the diff. Unbolt the U-bolts on the axle. Either unbolt, or leave the shocks on the plates. Remove the axle (note the centering pin function on the leafs).

To install newer axle, reverse the directions, replace dif fluids, & bleed the brakes

Air tools= 2-4 hours. Hand tools= 4-6 hours.

You can do this and save big shop charges!!

I have asked this before in other threads and at the risk of threadjacking for a moment here, how do you stop from losing all brake fluid in the lines when you disconnect the brakes?
I'm not so much concerned with the lines as the master cylinder....I believe the brakes are separated through a valve so is it just physically impossible to drain the master cylinder when you disconnect the rear brakes?

 

[gmanpaint]

how do you stop from losing all brake fluid in the lines when you disconnect the brakes?

The fluids will eventually gravity bleed out. Bleeder kits have plastic threaded connectors that you can screw on the lines, and then plug the tube hole with a vac cap.

 

[bobflood]

I have asked this before in other threads and at the risk of threadjacking for a moment here, how do you stop from losing all brake fluid in the lines when you disconnect the brakes?
I'm not so much concerned with the lines as the master cylinder....I believe the brakes are separated through a valve so is it just physically impossible to drain the master cylinder when you disconnect the rear brakes?

I clamp a pair of vise grips on flexible hose as close to the end you open up as possible. Have done this for years with no ill effects; some folks, however, think it damages the hoses. You can drain the master reservoir through a brake line; half your brakes may work for awhile, but eventually air will get in both sides and compromise all braking.

 

[IZwack]

Its also a good opportunity to flush and replace the brake fluid so let it all drain out and go through the bleeding process.

 

[Baddecision93]

Someone else, I believe it was on here, said I should just use a 2x4 or something similar and "jam" it into place so it would hold the brake pedal down.
The idea I guess is that once you depress the brake pedal it moves the rod inside the master cylinder and as long as you don't let that back in until everything is reconnected and you can pour more fluid in the MC and then release the pedal and it will draw in fluid as opposed to air.

That make sense or is it just one of those good in theory kind of ideas?

 

[IZwack]

Fluid will bleed out even if the MC is depressed. But on another thought, if you are swapping out the axle, you don't have to disconnect the brake calipers, just use zip ties to hang them to the chassis and bolt em onto the new axle. However, as I stated in my previous post, this is a good opportunity to flush out and replace all of that old, rusty brake fluid.

 

[bobflood]

Swapping the rear axle is more of a physical pain than a mental one.

Readers digest version:
Remove E-brake cable ends, rear drive shaft. Set vehicle on jack stands and remove wheels. Remove brake line on Drivers side at the junction. Disconnect the rear sensor on the top of the diff. Unbolt the U-bolts on the axle. Either unbolt, or leave the shocks on the plates. Remove the axle (note the centering pin function on the leafs).

gman: My question - why do you remove any brake lines to replace axle? Can't you just remove calipers from axle and hang them out of the way? Or is there a part/all of a brake line in the way that has to be disconnected to remove axle? May be facing this job myself, but haven't scoped out details yet. Thanks!!

 

[Baddecision93]

I'm bringing my first gen confusion into this mess with my threadjack, sorry.

You 2nd gen guys can totally keep the lines hooked the calipers.

However, Mr. Drum Rear brakes doesn't have the luxury .
Sorry for clouding the OPs question.

 

[gmanpaint]

The pass side brake line is attached to the axle. Either remove it from the axle and hang the calipers, or disconnect the line and reuse the other brake line on the donor axle, if it has it.

See the junction box and the line on the axle tube.