Solved TSB 02-7-6 4.0L SOHC Timing Chain Rattle

[S1L1K0N]

Ford did two basic TSB's for the engine. They always did the front tensioner and check valve first, hoping that would fix the noise. The timing cassettes have to lose(wear) quite a bit of plastic guide material before it causes any noise.

Do the two tensioners, yes no special tools are required for those. If you have any kind of valve train noise afterwards, I would be worried. Good luck,

Thanks for the reply!

I purchased the Explorer from a Ford dealer (a rural dealer) and after explaining the TSB to them (and the fact I just picked the Explorer up on Friday) they've verbally agreed to let me have the 2U3Z-6D256-CA kit for free. Am I correct in assuming this kit contains the primary jackshaft tensioner, as well as the two camshaft (front and rear) tensioner's? Does it also contain the oil check valve? Does the timing assembly have to be removed to replace the oil check valve? I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I am leary of having to re-time the engine, even after borrowing the special cam locking tools from Ford. The dealer wants to quote me on doing the work themselves, so once I get an answer I'll be sure to post it on here.

Can the rear tensioner be replaced without removing the engine, looking back through the posts, this seems to be a bit of a grey area. I've also read that the front tensioner (camshaft) can be replaced without removing the upper intake - are these people referring the the camshaft tensioner, the jackshaft tensioner or both? Thanks again.

***EDIT***
The dealer quoted me $600 Cdn for the labour. This only includes the front of the engine. I checked with another dealer in town and the parts kit is $230 Cdn. I told them I'd get back to them, they said I could still have the parts for free regardless of whether or not I had the work performed by them.

I'm undecided on whether or not I should just attempt it myself...

 

[CDW6212R]

The cam chain tensioners and check valve don't affect the timing. Changing the jackshaft tensioner requires removing the entire front cover and and all front parts. It may be possible(doubtful) to change that tensioner without taking the jackshaft chain off of the two gears. I wouldn't and didn't even consider that. Once you get that deep into the engine, doing the front cam cassette and setting the timing is very little work.

Buying the parts separately versus in "kits" is no big deal(savings). Just buy what you need, as you need it. Do the cam chain tensioners and check valve, and see what you get first. One of the TSB kits includes the front tensioner, check valve, and gaskets for the upper intake. The rear tensioner is about $25 or so, a 20 minute task(pull the right inner fender).

 

[S1L1K0N]

Just buy what you need, as you need it. Do the cam chain tensioners and check valve, and see what you get first. One of the TSB kits includes the front tensioner, check valve, and gaskets for the upper intake. The rear tensioner is about $25 or so, a 20 minute task(pull the right inner fender).

It didn't dawn on me that the front and rear cam chain tensioners could be ordered seperately. Does the same hold true for the check valve, and if so does anybody have part numbers? The part#'s in this thread refer to the primary tensioner kit (the jackshaft parts/front timing cover area) or the camshaft chain cassettes (post 77). The more reading and re-reading and googling I do, the more I'm convincing myself it won't be so bad to tackle this myself... LOL

 

[CDW6212R]

The real hardest part of the task is handling the TDC while performing the timing work. The crank has no magic timing mark to line up. The TDC tool can be moved while in place, affecting the timing by several several degrees. If you do the job, take lots of extra time to be sure that you are comfortable with where the TDC is at, before tightening the cam bolts. I wish that there were better timing marks for the crank, if the balancer has spun on itself(which is not uncommon with old age), the timing ends up off a bit.

I suggest that the owners of trucks which achieve great fuel mileage have an engine timed very well. Good luck,

 

[S1L1K0N]

My free 2U3Z-6D256-CA is available for pick-up tomorrow - I hope this contains the two cam tensioners, and the oil check valve, as well as the primary/jackshaft tensioner. I'll try and document all the parts in it for anybody else lucky enough to have to go through this process. Stay tuned for more exciting timing assembly parts

 

[S1L1K0N]

The kit 2U3Z-6D256-CA contains the primary chain tensioner and guide, a crankshaft sprocket, primary timing chain (jackshaft chain), new gaskets for the timing cover and new nuts/bolts for the assembly. It does not contain the cam tensioners, cam guide cassettes, intake gaskets or oil check valve.

My local Ford dealer is having a hard time finding the oil check valve, does anybody have a part # for it (does it go by a different name)? They are able to find the cam tensioner, cam guide cassettes and intake gaskets. Thanks.

 

[CDW6212R]

The check valve is included in one of the two TSB's, Ford parts should be able to find the part number for it. The check valve is a long plastic "stick" about 4" long. Search around on here, I believe that you can find a list of most all of the part numbers, and many pictures. Search for "timing cassettes" and "tensioners."

 

[S1L1K0N]

They managed to find the cam tensioner upgrade kit. The part number is YL2Z-9E473-AA, and it contains the front cam tensioner (which is probably the same as the rear?), the oil check valve (looks like a jeweller's screwdriver without a head), intake gaskets as well as a brass plug (with a torx head) and a small circular gasket. At first we were trying to find the individual parts, but then one of the guys in back said they had a 'kit' on the shelf. It cost $109 before taxes. Looks like I've got all the parts I need (until I break stuff tearing this thing apart) but it's doubtful that I'll get a chance to work on it until next week (possibly next weekend). Thanks for all your info, I'll keep you guys updated...

 

[CDW6212R]

Wow check out that mark up. My cost was under $50 for that I believe, two years ago. The rear tensioner is much different, it was about $30. Try Torrie at the Fast Parts Network website, they often are cheaper than my good price here. Don't pay retail, so few Ford parts customers do that we can avoid that, knowing better. Regards,

$43 and shipping, copy the part # and paste it there;
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=318

 

[S1L1K0N]

One more question. There were no destructions for the cam tensioner, where does the oil check valve go, is it pretty obvious once the valve cover is removed?

That's a huge difference in price, and right now the Canadian dollar is at par with the American, so there's nothing to figure out in regards to exchange. I've got time to take the parts back and order those ones, thanks for the tip!

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes take any free parts which they may provide. I have heard worse price stories than that, usually farther away from the US.

The upper intake has to come off to get at the check valve and front cam tensioner. There is a plug in the inner side of the head near the corner, next to the tensioner. That is the plug which is provided with loctite on it, in the kit. The plug comes out and you drop the check valve in, add new plug. Hopefully you will not discover a check valve already in the passage.

The cam tensioner needs 42lbs.ft. of torque, just R&R the two parts. Feel the difference in compression resistance between the old and new parts. The spring inside is what wears out.

 

[badgett]

X goes under the knife this weekend in my garage. Time to get down to business. Wish me luck !

 

[Lars Jonsson]

Hi!

Fantastic forum!! I just finished reading all the posts and i just want to say, try getting this repair in Sweden!

To get the big work with the engine removal they wanted to charge me about 4700 US $ !!

So now i dont know what to do. Do i dare to by the car i was planning on bying? It´s a -99 Explorer Limited with 120000km on the counter.
Can i hope not to hear that rattling sound?
What are the odds that it does not need to be fixed?

Please help me out. I really would like to buy the car since i had a -97 XLT a couple of years ago and i really liked it.

PS.
The winter is coming, and the snow about to fall soon. I really need to by a car soon since im starting to freeze my family jewels off in the morning, riding my harley to work..

Best regards, Lars Jonsson. Sweden.

 

[CDW6212R]

Welcome Lars, and try to learn what service work may have been done to the timing chain etc. already. Id guess that far less than a third of the SOHC's don't have troubles before 120,000 miles. The parts for all of the upgrades is about $200, including the rear cassette which usually is okay. Skip that one unless necessary. Make a list of the parts in these threads, there are several threads about this. List the parts and the names, then see about where you might find a mechanic to do the work. The tool kit is usually over $150. The labor is always the expensive part, the whole job when not pulling the engine(rear cassette) is a long full day of work. A novice or backyard mechanic should plan to spend a good two days of work on it. Good luck,

 

[S1L1K0N]

I started the teardown last night after work. I got up to the part where the balancer/crank pulley needs to be removed. I started working in earnest around 5:00pm yesterday and worked 'til 1:00 am. I'm going back out shortly, so wish me luck

The existing plug for the oil check valve, does it look like an inverse torx head? If so, what do you call the socket?

So far the only thing I broke in disassembly was the hose tee for the PCV valve at the back of the upper intake... I hope that's all I have to replace

 

[CDW6212R]

Is that screw in plug just a torx bit, I've forgotten what it looks like? Is it just like the intake bolts, those are torx bit heads?

How bad is that PCV valve "T"? That can only be had from Ford as a PCV valve assembly for about $45. I needed just the PCV valve so I bought a $2 part at Autozone etc. If you have to replace it, then either buy something new from a parts store, or get it used from a salvage yard. It won't be easy to find used. Take your time,

 

[S1L1K0N]

Is that screw in plug just a torx bit, I've forgotten what it looks like? Is it just like the intake bolts, those are torx bit heads?

How bad is that PCV valve "T"? That can only be had from Ford as a PCV valve assembly for about $45. I needed just the PCV valve so I bought a $2 part at Autozone etc. If you have to replace it, then either buy something new from a parts store, or get it used from a salvage yard. It won't be easy to find used. Take your time,

The 'tee' won't attach to the PCV valve anymore, more than half of the plastic shroud on the tee is busted. I bought a universal tee and some hose, hoping I can rig something up.

Does the balancer/crank pull have to come off to get the timing cover off? Whenever I try to use the puller all I end up doing is turning the engine over, is there a safe way to keep the motor from turning? I've removed all the bolts for the timing chain cover but I can't get it to budge, and of course the balancer is still attached.

The upper intake bolts are torx (T30) so I'll have another look for that little plug... Thanks for your help, if it wasn't for this site I'd be stressed right out! I'm off to Canadian Tire to get a bolt extractor as one of the bolts that hold down the thermostat housing broke off

 

[CDW6212R]

The crank bolt has to be loose before removing the balancer, have you done that yet? That bolt is harder to loosen and tighten than the balancer work. I managed to do mine alone, with a very large screw driver lodged in the flexplate teeth. That task is much easier if one person will hold a pry bar or screw driver in the teeth of the flexplate.

Take a great deal of care with the balancer removal. Mine worked with the radiator in place, but many will be too long for that. The main thing to watch is the crank bolt depth when cranking on the puller. The crank bolt will need to be close to snug to begin, with say three threads out from snug. The bolt doesn't engage enough threads to pull the balancer in one pull. Pull the balancer the first few threads distance out(the bolt will stop it from coming out more), then you must remove the puller and reposition the bolt and puller. Mine took three steps to get the balancer completely out.

Maybe a Special Ford puller might work better or faster, but I believe the slow process that I went through is typical, others have done the same thing. Good luck with that broken bolt, that's the normal kind of thing which slows down a project like this.

 

[S1L1K0N]

The crank bolt has to be loose before removing the balancer, have you done that yet? That bolt is harder to loosen and tighten than the balancer work. I managed to do mine alone, with a very large screw driver lodged in the flexplate teeth. That task is much easier if one person will hold a pry bar or screw driver in the teeth of the flexplate.

Take a great deal of care with the balancer removal. Mine worked with the radiator in place, but many will be too long for that. The main thing to watch is the crank bolt depth when cranking on the puller. The crank bolt will need to be close to snug to begin, with say three threads out from snug. The bolt doesn't engage enough threads to pull the balancer in one pull. Pull the balancer the first few threads distance out(the bolt will stop it from coming out more), then you must remove the puller and reposition the bolt and puller. Mine took three steps to get the balancer completely out.

Maybe a Special Ford puller might work better or faster, but I believe the slow process that I went through is typical, others have done the same thing. Good luck with that broken bolt, that's the normal kind of thing which slows down a project like this.

I used an impact wrench and the crank bolt came out with no problem. I've got the radiator already removed, and this puller that I've 'borrowed' has a pretty long center bolt on it. I guess I'll just have to find a way to brace the pulley while using the removal tool - just wanted to see if there was an easy way to get it done.

I guess that means the pulley has definitely got to come off to get the timing cover off.

The bolt extractor I bought was garbage, bolt is still stuck, along with a broken drill bit in the hole I was trying to drill out! How's that for luck

To top it off, the front cam tensioner kit must have been installed already as when I removed the tensioner I could see the oil check valve in the passage... My rattling symptom is between 2500-2900/3000 RPM, hot or cold, so I'm now praying that it's the primary/jackshaft tensioner and not the rear one

 

[CDW6212R]

The holding power on the balancer to be able to turn the puller bolt is not much. You can likely use the TDC tool, very carefully, don't hurt the tool. Or you could jamb the flexplate teeth like I mentioned, a second person is best, you'll be there again when tightening the crank bolt.

How does the old tensioner feel compared to the new one? My front tensioner was weaker than my new one, and the check valve was in mine already also.

Broken bolts usually come down to patience and very good drill bits to sacrifice. Take your time drilling, making the hole centered and straight is the big key to it, and watch the metal particles.