Solved TSB 02-7-6 4.0L SOHC Timing Chain Rattle

[S1L1K0N]

The holding power on the balancer to be able to turn the puller bolt is not much. You can likely use the TDC tool, very carefully, don't hurt the tool. Or you could jamb the flexplate teeth like I mentioned, a second person is best, you'll be there again when tightening the crank bolt.

How does the old tensioner feel compared to the new one? My front tensioner was weaker than my new one, and the check valve was in mine already also.

Broken bolts usually come down to patience and very good drill bits to sacrifice. Take your time drilling, making the hole centered and straight is the big key to it, and watch the metal particles.

I couldn't feel the difference between the existing front cam tensioner and the replacement - so I guess that's a good sign.

I'm going to have another go at the balancer shortly, with that out of the way it shouldn't be much to remove the timing cover? I've got all the bolts removed and everything is out of the way of it already.

I'll come back to the bolt once I start re-assembling the engine, I was hoping to have it back on the road by Monday morning

For everybody else that's trying this, patience is key!

 

[CDW6212R]

There are five bolts going into the bottom of the timing cover, oil pan bolts, did you get those already?

I would have been more pleased if you had a weak old tensioner. That suggests that the issue isn't the tensioner, but a timing cassette. My tensioners were both weaker than the new parts, one barely, the rear was much softer. Good luck,

 

[S1L1K0N]

There are five bolts going into the bottom of the timing cover, oil pan bolts, did you get those already?

I would have been more pleased if you had a weak old tensioner. That suggests that the issue isn't the tensioner, but a timing cassette. My tensioners were both weaker than the new parts, one barely, the rear was much softer. Good luck,

The five bolts on the bottom were sneaky, but I found them. I still can't get the pulley off though, the tool I borrowed from Part Source doesn't seem to fit this engine so well. The two smaller bolts that secure the puller to the balancer on either side of the middle are too short. The pulley recess is too deep, so I'll have to find one with longer bolts. I can just barely get the two bolts in, which I learned isn't enough to get the pulley off.

No luck in getting the broken bolt out, just a lot of busted drill bits. I'll see what they have at Parts Source tomorrow that may help me out, as I have to go there to return the crankshaft pulley.

Is there any way to tell if the cassettes are damaged by looking at them? From what I can see, the plastic is intact... Thanks for all your help!

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes the plastic should shows some signs of wear if they have gone away. Hopefully they haven't because even if you fix those, any plastic could be in the oil pump, and at least in the pump pickup. That would require dropping the pan at a minimum, which is not easy to do.

Yes I do recall that my puller was very close to having too short of bolts also. They are cheap quality bolts(cheap kit), so often I/we scrounge up spare grade 5 or better bolts. If you cannot get a puller with the right bolts quickly, just take the bolts with the right threads to a hardware store and buy a couple of grade 5 or better, longer bolts. Regards,

 

[S1L1K0N]

Yes the plastic should shows some signs of wear if they have gone away. Hopefully they haven't because even if you fix those, any plastic could be in the oil pump, and at least in the pump pickup. That would require dropping the pan at a minimum, which is not easy to do.

Something I am all too weary of - I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Yes I do recall that my puller was very close to having too short of bolts also. They are cheap quality bolts(cheap kit), so often I/we scrounge up spare grade 5 or better bolts. If you cannot get a puller with the right bolts quickly, just take the bolts with the right threads to a hardware store and buy a couple of grade 5 or better, longer bolts. Regards,

The bolts seem to be metric, M8 1.25 - the ones in the kit were 80mm, but it looks like I need longer ones, and I haven't been able to find any at any nearby store. (Home Depot, etc.). I've got to keep hunting though as at this point I feel like I'm too close to button it all up and take it somewhere...

 

[S1L1K0N]

I got the right bolts, they are M8 1.25 and have to be at least 90mm long (the ones in the puller kit were only 80mm). I had to insert a 1/4" extension bar into the hole in the middle of the pulley as the removal bolt on the puller didn't go right against the crank.

The primary tensioner was really weak, after I installed the new one, the chain tightened right up. I didn't bother with changing the gears and chain, I'd be at it for another month at this rate... Because I didn't remove the chains, I didn't have to re-time the engine, which saved me from hunting down the special camshaft holding tool.

I've got the front timing cover back on, but because I had to rig up a way to get the balancer off (I followed the advice of the guy on page 4 or 5 in regards to the 1/4" extension bar), I need to figure out a way to get the balancer back on. I'm all open for suggestions! Maybe by the weekend it'll be running again

 

[Space Truckin']

I need to figure out a way to get the balancer back on.

Don't forget that is a torque-to-yield bolt and is designed to be used only once and then replaced. It is not a shelf stock item so it usually takes a day or two for the dealership to get one.

 

[S1L1K0N]

Don't forget that is a torque-to-yield bolt and is designed to be used only once and then replaced. It is not a shelf stock item so it usually takes a day or two for the dealership to get one.

There was a new crankshaft bolt with the jackshaft/primary timing chain tensioner kit. It included the new tensioner, guide, crank and jackshaft sprockets, chain and two different timing cover gaskets (paper and metal).

The problem I have is that the supplied adapter that is supposed to thread into the crank isn't long enough - the Ford specific puller must have longer and thinner bolts which go down into the middle of the crank - the balancer on these 4.0L's are really, really deep.

 

[CDW6212R]

The old crank bolt is used to remove the balancer. As mentioned, you leave the bolt in the crank so that the puller pushes against the crank bolt. You start with the bolt almost in all of the way. From just loose, back it out a few turns, then attach the puller and pull the balancer out that few turns distance. You can feel the puller stop pulling the balancer when it pulls to the crank bolt.

Then you remove the puller, and loosen the crank bolt another few turns, etc. Do it slowly, only about 1/8" at a time to start with. There aren't many threads engaged by the crank bolt when the balancer gets close to being out.

To put it in do not use the new bolt, either use some proper installer, or the old bolt. Most people use the old bolt after tapping the balancer on just enough for the bolt to reach the threads. In that case you use the old bolt to get the balancer just near snug, then you remove it and use the new crank bolt.

It is good to know that the front timing chain tensioner was loose, that suggests that you may not yet have any chain guide debris in the engine. Those tensioners have some kind of basic spring inside of them. Those do not last as long as engines parts should last, they are very critical to the life of the timing chains.

 

[S1L1K0N]

The original crank bolt it too short once the balancer is off. I got a tip from 'loadie' to put the balancer in the oven @ 250 for 30 mins. Balancer slid right on - great trick!

Still fighting with that busted bolt, about half drilled out but I must have spent nearly $80 on bits! The hole isn't perfectly straight either (goes off to the side a little bit) so I'm just about at my wits end.

The only thing I know for sure is that if I put the thermostat housing together with only 2 bolts, it's going to leak like a sieve.

Everybody else that's going to try this, be prepared to spend way longer than you think you'll need too!

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes I feel you about the bolt, and the time spent. I've usually had an extra vehicle to lean on. Good luck,

 

[Kean_SHO]

Does the balancer/crank pull have to come off to get the timing cover off? Whenever I try to use the puller all I end up doing is turning the engine over, is there a safe way to keep the motor from turning? I've removed all the bolts for the timing chain cover but I can't get it to budge, and of course the balancer is still attached.

I am doing this job right now. I found that there is a washer or spacer stuffed in the center of the harmoic balancer. I stripped out 2 set of bolts on the puller before i realized what was happening. I stuffed a long 1/4" bolt down the center (where the crank bolt goes), put the flat adapter on the end of the puller, and it came out like butter.
Also, I had my dad holding the balancer with a strap wrench to prevent it from rotating while i operated the puller.
PS. thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread (and the ones like it). The information here has helped me countless times already on this project.

Edit- sorry, if i had scrolled down i would have seen this was already answered.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, the idea of a strap wrench is excellent. Finding a use for those is harder than using one.

Filling the crank hole isn't a bad idea, if the rod/bolt etc. is strong enough and won't hurt the threads.

 

[S1L1K0N]

I am doing this job right now. I found that there is a washer or spacer stuffed in the center of the harmoic balancer. I stripped out 2 set of bolts on the puller before i realized what was happening. I stuffed a long 1/4" bolt down the center (where the crank bolt goes), put the flat adapter on the end of the puller, and it came out like butter.
Also, I had my dad holding the balancer with a strap wrench to prevent it from rotating while i operated the puller.
PS. thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread (and the ones like it). The information here has helped me countless times already on this project.

Edit- sorry, if i had scrolled down i would have seen this was already answered.

It's reassuring knowing that I'm not the only one going through this! I'm close to being finished now, the lower intake is on, just the remaining odds and ends. I'm not going to put the fan and shroud on until I check for leaks.

The balancer is way deeper than it looks, I stripped one set of bolts as well before I put a 1/4" extension bar down the center. Try the oven trick when you re-install it, it works great.

 

[S1L1K0N]

Hey everybody, it's all put back together and (knock on wood) running great. The rattle is completely gone - it's the first time I finally like the motor isn't going to explode when it gets up to 2500-3000 RPM. A big thank you to everybody on here, especially Don (CDW6212R) and 'loadie'!

Just a reminder, the ignition coil sequence is 123, 564 - I originally had it 123, 654 (I only glanced at the sequence before re-connecting the wires) and I nearly gave myself a stroke when the motor fired up and started bucking and knocking. At least it was an easy fix.

Everybody else doing the tensioner(s) and the timing work, good luck and make sure you read this thread COMPLETELY and refer to it often!

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, we are glad to hear that you have made it better. Hopefully that will last for a long time for you. Regards,

 

[loadie]

I learn't everything I needed to know from this site!

Now I need to replace the exhaust. I lost one of the catalytic converters!

 

[foxy]

Guys,Do you realize how much it's going to cost me in ink and paper alone just to print off all this info ??

 

[04xplr]

Fitch Fuel Catalyst

Deleted

 

[Lars Jonsson]

Explorer in Sweden

Hi, and Thank You Don!

I just bought a -99 Limited Explorer. But now i´m nervous!
The seller claims to have changed the tensioners but yesterday, the day after i bought the car, i heard some kind of slight rattling sound. Maybe rattling/ticking sound. It could be a chain sliding against metal kind of sound.

The seller claims to have done the repair in about three hours and the only thing that had to be removed was the wheel to get access to the tensioner. (Well not only the wheel of course, you know what i mean.)

Since i have quite a long way to the nearest auto shop with any knowledge i wonder if there is something i can do myself to check if its ok?

Should i be worried???


Best regards, Lars Jonsson in Sweden.