People that have the Super-runner steering???

[Perry]

I noticed some play in my steering so I was checking it out and it looks like the joint that connects to the pitman arm is no good. It has a lot of play in it and my question is; can you buy a new end or what end does Superlift use in order to replace it???????
I don't want to buy that complete part because it's like $130.00.

Also has anyone come up with or is there another set up better then Super-runnner. I need to try and fix this by the weekend.

 

[Foggman]

I was thinking about getting the super runner steering...what dont you like about it? I have heard good and bad things about it...mostly bad though which is why I have held off

 

[Perry]

What have you heard bad?
This is the first time I have had to do something with mine. After closer observations the plastic bushing on the part that is on the frame is also shot so I'll order that tomorrow. We got the other part off from the pitman arm (not sure what you call them) and it is pretty loose.
I have been happy with mine but then I never did have a stock one on since the lift. I am thinking of maybe seeing if a friend can mill out the ends so I can go bigger tie rods but we will see.

 

[daddy_ja]

i cant stand mine,theres always some kind of problem with it, and to replace even one part of it cost way to much. i say stay away from it!!!!! thank god im going SAS and ditching the set-up.

 

[sn0border88]

there is a system better than superrunner, but be prepared to pay for it. its an equal length crossover system commonly known as "swingset steering" more common in long travel suspensions on IFS prerunners it is made for the TTB and eliminates ALL bumpsteer and other issues with the TTB. more info here.

http://www.giantmotorsports.com/products/steering.php

Also, as for your superrunner steering... couldnt you replace the worn ball joint with a heim?

 

[Foggman]

thats an awsome set up there from Giantmotorsports...a whole lot more than I am willing to spend though...ever thought of getting the supper runner steering and making all the joints heims?

 

[Perry]

thats an awsome set up there from Giantmotorsports...a whole lot more than I am willing to spend though...ever thought of getting the supper runner steering and making all the joints heims?

I am going to take the Superrunner part to a friend that is a machinest and see if he can make it with bigger joints on the end. Another bad design I feel is where they use rubber bushings so if there was a way to use bearings so you could "REALLY" tighten that up to keep any play from happening would help. I also think the tie rods are pretty small in size because I have pictures of them flexing when crawling over rocks.

 

[410Fortune]

Wow, I friggin love mine! Of course I paid $65 for it from a forum member who went solid axle (Thanks Clint)

I replaced the rubber bushings in the idler arm once, and new tie rod ends.
I keep it lubed up, I mean monthly along with the rest of my chasis.

The joint for the pitman arm is built as a piece of the swing arm and you have to replace the whole part OR machine it yourself to use a replaceable rod end, etc.

Perry I have had to re-torque the castle nut on that thing a few times, as it wears.
My pitman arm also has slightly loosened on the steering box a couple of times. I think a locked TTB with 35" tires aired down does not help
The 5.0L power steering pump also pushes my box alot easier (less effort!)
I will not buy the new swing arm from Superlift, instead I will do like you and modify the stock center swign arm.
I was also thinking of replacing the rubber bushings with either brass bushings or true bearings, likely build a new idler arm to make this work.
Keep the bracket on the frame and the tie rods to the knuckles.

I know the Superrunner system is not ideal, but it is far better then the inverted Y setup (depending on how much lift) and was one of the best upgrades I made to my TTB, the bump steer prior on the street and off road could be down right scary.

Let us know what you come up with, it should be farily easy to modiy that sucker to use a replace-able part instead of replacing the entire $130 piece.

 

[Perry]

well tonight I took the part that connects to the frame apart because I thought the bushings were shot and come to find out they are fine and it was just loose so the only problem I have to worry about now is the one that connects to the pitman arm.
Hopefully my friend will be able to get it off and we can get a new one installed.

 

[410Fortune]

Say what now? he is going to machine the center link swing arm right? I dont think you can just replace the joint part of it?

 

[Perry]

Say what now? he is going to machine the center link swing arm right? I dont think you can just replace the joint part of it?

Its the part that connects to the pitman arm. On most vehicles such as on the ends of the drag link you can replace them but on the super-runner it is welded so we are going to see if it is threaded or just welded in. Instead of grinding down the weld he wanted to do it on the lathe so it would be a cleaner job and that would still give us something to weld the new on back to. Hope that helps, I don't know what it's called.

 

[410Fortune]

its welded

 

[Perry]

its welded

I'll try and get pictures for you!!!

 

[Perry]

OK here are the pictures of what is loose or should I say has to much play in it and the only way Superlift will fix it is you buy the complete part for $130.00.

 

[Perry]

Ok here is the plan, on the left is the old part we cut off tonight and on the right is a Chevy tie rod end that we plan on tapping the main piece and using this tie rod. I know it's hard to put a Chevy part on my Explorer, but I feel this is going to be better.

One on the left is the old one and the right is the new Chevy tie rod we plan on using. At least this one has a life time warranty so I'll just replace it. Once we get it going then we will start thinking of a good idea to replace the bushings with bearings so then I can really tighten it up and it should work better then new. We do have to drill out the pitman arm a little but that won't be no big deal.

 

[Infragate]

Having the ability to change the tie rods without going to superlift is a way better deal. I had the same thought in mind when i build my linkage. And bearings instead of bushings is so much more stable. Here is a pic of my linkage. It is completely custom, not 1 part is superlift. I too went with bearings instead of bushings and she rides like a dream.
When you re work your pitman arm for the chevy tie rod, it will have to be tapered to match the tie rod.

 

[410Fortune]

Infragate,

Nice work! Can you show us how you used bearings in the idler arm pivots?



Perry, why the Chevy part? Why not use a tie rod that matches the taper on the pitman arm already? So when you cut the weld on the Superlift part you found a threaded piece inside?????

 

[Perry]

Infragate,

Nice work! Can you show us how you used bearings in the idler arm pivots?

I haven't done anything with the idler arms at this time but if we do then I'll post pictures.

Perry, why the Chevy part? Why not use a tie rod that matches the taper on the pitman arm already? So when you cut the weld on the Superlift part you found a threaded piece inside?????

I have to use a Chevy part to get a big enough threaded end, the one that was in there just slid into the pipe, there were no threads on the pipe section just the tie rod. The Chevy tie rod is 7/8x18 thread and that is the size of die & tap my friend has.
When we cut the Superlift part the tie rod was just put inside the pipe then welded around the edge as in the picture. There were no threads, it just pulled out.

 

[tdavis]

When we cut the Superlift part the tie rod was just put inside the pipe then welded around the edge as in the picture. There were no threads, it just pulled out.

That's disgusting. Seriously, it would of taken a few more dollars, and they could of had it properly threaded so you could replace it.

I knew I didn't like the way that kit was made, and now you've proved it to me.

 

[Infragate]

Infragate,

Nice work! Can you show us how you used bearings in the idler arm pivots?

Thanks alot 410!
Basically the set up was quite simple. I had bored out the housings on a lathe until i got my required inner diameter so my bearings would fit in snug, altho i left a step at the bottom of each housing so the bearings didn't just slide through. i used 5 radial ball bearings in each housing for super strength. each one was sealed of course. Then at the top of each housing i had turned in a snap ring grove so that once all the bearings were inside i could lock them down. Then a bit of measuring and welding and the arm was done. I had to make up some spacers so that they sit centre in the brackets that hold them. There are 2 spacers per housing, one on each side of the bearing packs. They are fastened between the bearings and the brackets that hold the idler arm on each end, this way i could tighten down the bolts and lock the spacers to the inner races on each bearing allowing me to utilize the radial movement of the bearing packs.
If you were to use this idea to replace the superlift part i think it would be pretty easy to do. The only tricky part would be the Tie rod tapered holes, but you could always cut that off the superlift part and weld it to the new part you make.
If anyone would like more info just lemme know, i could make a diagram or something for visuals. I have been running the linkage for a year now and its as tough as nails and i use the truck, lemme tell ya
The Tie rods i used are all standard explorer parts, well moog replacements anyway, this way it is simple to replace em and you don't have to bend over for a replacement part like with Superlift.