Removing internal components from front hub

[flyinpaw]

Hi guys, my first post, I've been lurking for a while. I have a 94 XLT 4x4 with 185,000 miles. I have 2 questions, 1) Can I remove the internal components from my stock front hubs and safely drive the truck? I need to drive it before I can do a hub rebuild or replacement with manual hubs. 2) Is there any specification for the end play of the front axle? I think I need to replace the spindle needle bearings and the u-joints inboard of the steering knuckle because I can wiggle the end of the axle about 1/8 inch on both sides. I'm troubleshooting a grinding noise and clunk that occurs sometimes when I turn tightly. I removed the hubs and found two of the three small knubs were broken off the left cam assembly. I believe the 4x4 was working properly before disassembly, I tested it this winter and all seemed okay. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[little x]

I would guess that your u-joint is binding sometimes while turning tightly and that the extra stress caused by the binding u-joint is what broke the hub.

I think the only way to drive it would be to pull off the axle and reassemble it without the axle in it (might as well change the u-joints and put the axle back in then and be done with it).

It's not to hard.
You remove the spindle nut.
Take the rotor off.
Take the spindle off.
Pull the axle.
Replace the u-joints.
Put it back together.

I'm in the middle of a DIY write up here right now http://explorerchic.proboards82.com/index.cgi?board=doityourself&action=display&thread=1170194974

 

[EMG7895]

As long as the big spindle nut has the lock key in it and is tightened properly, it doesnt matter whats out side of it. The side to side play is normal, dont worry about it.

 

[knob]

I've got a set of manual WARN hubs with all the hardware needed to convert from auto to manual if you're interested? Just pulled them off father in laws X to convert those hubs back to AUTO. PM if your interested.

 

[flyinpaw]

Little X, EMG, and Knob,
Thanks for your replies. The grinding and clunks occured intermittently in 2x4, not 4x4. I hope my front axle, differential, and driveshaft weren't spinning in 2x4. I switched to Warn manual hubs and I hope this cures the problem. I think the problem was caused by Knucklehead Auto Repair jamming the hub back on without aligning the cams properly. This caused the hub to be part way through the engagement sequence and it would attempt to engage the front axle when I turned tightly. I looked at changing the front spindle bearings and axle u-joints a few years ago after I did the job on a 91. The roadblock was the wheel speed sensor for the front ABS on a 94. It overlaps the spindle and didn't look easy to remove. Since this was preventive maintenance, not a needed repair, I didn't do it. If I need to do the job, do you have any advice on removing the wheel speed sensor? Little X, I tried your link and could'nt get to the website. Knob, thanks for the offer but I already spent the $$.

 

[cloaked_chaos]

I've got a set of manual WARN hubs with all the hardware needed to convert from auto to manual if you're interested? Just pulled them off father in laws X to convert those hubs back to AUTO. PM if your interested.

If he doesn't want it, how much are you looking to get for them? One of my auto hubs went bad (I'm not sure why yet because I haven't checked yet) but I wanted to change to manual anyway.

 

[DeRocha]

Little X, EMG, and Knob,
Thanks for your replies. The grinding and clunks occured intermittently in 2x4, not 4x4. I hope my front axle, differential, and driveshaft weren't spinning in 2x4. I switched to Warn manual hubs and I hope this cures the problem. I think the problem was caused by Knucklehead Auto Repair jamming the hub back on without aligning the cams properly. This caused the hub to be part way through the engagement sequence and it would attempt to engage the front axle when I turned tightly. I looked at changing the front spindle bearings and axle u-joints a few years ago after I did the job on a 91. The roadblock was the wheel speed sensor for the front ABS on a 94. It overlaps the spindle and didn't look easy to remove. Since this was preventive maintenance, not a needed repair, I didn't do it. If I need to do the job, do you have any advice on removing the wheel speed sensor? Little X, I tried your link and could'nt get to the website. Knob, thanks for the offer but I already spent the $$.

ABS sensor
The Sensor is an aluminum cylinder Pressed into the steering knuckle. Do not attempt to remove it since it will be destroyed in the process. You will however need to removed the ABS sensor support bracket which the sensor passes through.

2 bolts, 1 of which is hidden.
6mm 12pt 1/4"drive
3/8" drive sockets are too wide and will not fit.

Caution using a 6pt, or 1/4 socket may STRIP the bolt). I couldn't find this socket so used a 1/4 6pt socket. The passengers came off fine. The drivers side stripped. I used several differently sized drill bits to Erase most of the head (Don't drill into the Knuckle!). I then used a cold chisel and hammer to pop off the head. I then removed the ABS Sensor bracket, put it in a vise and used vise grips to unscrew the broken bolt (it came off easy).

The spindle
The lip of the spindle (which passes through the steering knuckle) will give you the most grief (unless you live in a dry climate) I had tried the "Tapping" method, but after 2 hours of beating the crap out of the spindle with a dead blow rubber mallet it didn't move. I then used a hammer to drive several screwdrivers as wedges between the spindle and steering knuckle. You can't just drive them in, but you have to walk it around the perimeter of the spindle Multiple times until you have enough clearance to drive one in a little. It took about 1/2 hour+ per spindle but it worked. I have since found the ideal method of using a slide hammer.. You put the hub axle nut back on and a few pulls later the spindle is out..

Check your U-joints. After removing the spindle the Stub Axles will just pull out through the knuckle (remove rubber boot P-side). You may need to raise/lower the T Beam to line things up so it will slip right out... The joint should move freely. Both of my outer u-joints on the stub axles were toast. The lube was gone with only a rusted set of needle bearings left. The inner U-joint was fine, but all U-joints were replaced..

Spindle removal

 

[flyinpaw]

De,
Thanks for your post. I'm hoping I don't have to do the spindle bearings and front axle u-joints, but if I have to your info will be invaluable.

 

[Makahveli]

ABS sensor
The Sensor is an aluminum cylinder Pressed into the steering knuckle. Do not attempt to remove it since it will be destroyed in the process. You will however need to removed the ABS sensor support bracket which the sensor passes through.

2 bolts, 1 of which is hidden.
6mm 12pt 1/4"drive
3/8" drive sockets are too wide and will not fit.

Caution using a 6pt, or 1/4 socket may STRIP the bolt). I couldn't find this socket so used a 1/4 6pt socket. The passengers came off fine. The drivers side stripped. I used several differently sized drill bits to Erase most of the head (Don't drill into the Knuckle!). I then used a cold chisel and hammer to pop off the head. I then removed the ABS Sensor bracket, put it in a vise and used vise grips to unscrew the broken bolt (it came off easy).

The spindle
The lip of the spindle (which passes through the steering knuckle) will give you the most grief (unless you live in a dry climate) I had tried the "Tapping" method, but after 2 hours of beating the crap out of the spindle with a dead blow rubber mallet it didn't move. I then used a hammer to drive several screwdrivers as wedges between the spindle and steering knuckle. You can't just drive them in, but you have to walk it around the perimeter of the spindle Multiple times until you have enough clearance to drive one in a little. It took about 1/2 hour+ per spindle but it worked. I have since found the ideal method of using a slide hammer.. You put the hub axle nut back on and a few pulls later the spindle is out..

Check your U-joints. After removing the spindle the Stub Axles will just pull out through the knuckle (remove rubber boot P-side). You may need to raise/lower the T Beam to line things up so it will slip right out... The joint should move freely. Both of my outer u-joints on the stub axles were toast. The lube was gone with only a rusted set of needle bearings left. The inner U-joint was fine, but all U-joints were replaced..

Spindle removal

I'm having the hardest time getting the axle spindle off, is a slide hammer going to work better than the screw driver method? Does it help to heat it while you do it?

 

[DeRocha]

I'm having the hardest time getting the axle spindle off, is a slide hammer going to work better than the screw driver method? Does it help to heat it while you do it?

The slide hammer is the preferred method and works like a dream! A few easy pulls and the spindle will be in your hand... most autoparts stores carry them as a free rental (just leave a deposit)

 

[Tony H]

IF th ePlay you are talking about is at the axle. As in you grab the Spline of teh axle and move it in and out, That is normal. Many times when you want to put the Spindle nut back on, you have to pull the axle toward you to give you room to put the Snap ring back on.

It does sound like Hub issues.

Go get the Slide hammer and spindle Socket, It's so much easier then beating the Spindle with screw drivers and chisels.
You can be there for hours trying to get the rusted mating surface to let go vs three pulls on the slide hammer.
(http://www.ozarktools.com/suspension.htm) Look for W83009 for the spindle removal and # W1271 for the install of the 'new' Manual Spindle nuts.