IFS Dana 35 Yoke Conversion

[cmax13007]

I am in the process of rebuilding my dana 35 IFS diff with new gears. I have noticed that the yoke has seal groves warn into it. I could just sleave it but want to go to a u-bolt style yoke.

Questions:

The current yoke looks like it has a cup with a little weight, probably used for balancing the differencial. First is that what it is used for and is it neccessary??

I have found a new dana 35, 26 spline yoke that utilizes the u-bolt stile for the 1310, but it will need a difference pinion seal since it has a smaller seal ID. Any ideas or suggestions???

Later tonight I will post pictures!!

CMAX

 

[cmax13007]

The new yoke seal will not work since there is 1mm (.040) of difference from the stock seal OD. I will need to find a seal that is if not exactly the same only a few thousands off (.001-.010max). Lastly, I still have not check to see if this new yoke will even fit my new pinon shaft (4.56 gears). Anyone done a similar mod??


CMAX

 

[IZwack]

I would return that seal. I once had to replace the rear seal on my brother's Explorer and man the MotorCity brand sucked royally, it was exactly as you described it, larger OD :shifty_ey.

 

[CDW6212R]

I noticed the few choices for yolks for the D35 the other day. You can change the u-joint type/size, but I didn't see any dimensions other than spline counts.

Are you sure that the old yolk is worn too much? I just got a used D35 rebuilt and my many told me that they don't have issues with them here. Good luck,

 

[cmax13007]

The guys at bronco graveyard are great people. If it does not work I can return it no questions asked. I will be returing the seal since it does not fit the D35.

I could sleave the old one but would rather fix it right. The old yoke also uses those wimpy straps, and I want to run a u-bolt style yoke. The old yoke has a 1310 u-joint yet it woundnt hurt to upgrade, if possible with the stock drive shaft. Later to be replaced with the superlilf dual cardon drive shaft.

Anyways, I am at work today and have everything here. I am going to see if there will be any problems with this new yoke. I will update in a few hours.

CMAX

 

[cmax13007]

I have found out a lot today. A second check on the the new pinion is to find what bearings the D44 uses for the outer pinion bearing, if it is the same as the D35 then all is good.

The next step is to find a new seal with the right outer diameter of 70mm!! Same if not close inner diameter.


CMAX

 

[gijoecam]

For the seal, you could call a place like Applied Industrial in Belleville (although they have satellites all over the Detroit area) or Motion Industries. Another good place is Joint, Clutch and Gear in Belleville off I-94 and Middlebelt. (Actually Ecorse Rd. between Middlebelt and Merriman) Give them the numbers off your old seal so they know what came out of it, and the dimensions of the seal you need and odds are they'll be able to get one that'll work fine. The seal's the easy part.

For the yoke, the guys over at Joint, Clutch, and Gear might be able to get you pointed in the right direction. There's a couple of old-timers that work there that really know their stuff.

-Joe

 

[cmax13007]

Stock IFS Dana 35 Seal Dimensions:
BORE: 2.7480" = 69.7992mm
OD: 2.7510" = 69.8754mm
SHAFT: 1.8420" = 46.7868mm
WEIGHT: .0700 lbs
WIDTH: 0.4260" = 10.8204mm

Needed Seal Dimensions:
BORE: 2.7480" = 69.7992mm
OD: 2.7510" = 69.8754mm
SHAFT: 1.4960" = 38.00mm

Using SKF's aftermarket applications website I was able to look up pinion seals for different vehicle applications. After multiple attemps I finally stumbled on a 1989 Ford Bronco II front axle seal. The front axle is a dana spicer 28.

Seal Dimensions:
BORE: 2.7500" => +.002"
OD: 2.7540" => +.003"
SHAFT: 1.5520" = 39.4mm
WEIGHT: .1080 lbs
WIDTH: 0.5900" = 14.986mm

Everything is perfect and within a few thousands of an inch, which is acceptable. The shaft OD also fits perfect on the new seal.

SKF's Part Number: 15502
Timken's Part Number: 4244 (see pics below)

The last test is to see if in will install without any problems! I'll post photos of the install.

If all works out will any body be interested in a kit offered from broncograveyard?? They said they would put one together to make things easier for purchasing.

CMAX

 

[AMMO_HOOAH]

This is awesome cmax now I'm tempted to swap out mine for one that uses the 1330 u-joint so it'll match up to the f-150 front drive shaft I've got in. Am I reading your first post right that a yoke off of a D30/44 works like this one --->D30/44 Yoke

 

[gijoecam]

How did we ever get by before the internet?? Remind me to send Al Gore a Christmas card this year... On recycled toilet paper, of course...

To answer one of the original questions, that little weight is there to balance the yoke assembly. However, if you remove the driveshaft, I would have the whole assembly re-balanced as an assembly. Any good driveline shop can do it. Take them the yoke from both ends, and the shaft and they'll get it spot-on.

-Joe

 

[CDW6212R]

So the yokes are not internally balanced? That would be dumb, and explain any/all vibrations from changing driveshafts. I had my new front shaft built and balanced, and the front yoke did not come out of the diff. to balance it with the shaft.

The yokes should be balanced by themselves. Regards,

 

[gijoecam]

Aaack, yes... I'm thinking of the rear... It's likely that the front was installed as an assembly... the rear CV joint would have been bolted to the t-case on the assembly, and the whole front axle and driveshaft would have come in as an assembly. I can't see them pushing u-joints together on the assembly line...

The front yoke would have been balanced by itself, I suspect.

-Joe

 

[cmax13007]

This is awesome cmax now I'm tempted to swap out mine for one that uses the 1330 u-joint so it'll match up to the f-150 front drive shaft I've got in. Am I reading your first post right that a yoke off of a D30/44 works like this one --->D30/44 Yoke

It should not be any different, well maybe the seal would be different. Not sure! Did you ever try it?? Sorry, I have not been around in a long time. Trying to get back here and start up a good offroading shop for explorers. I'll be in touch.


CMAX