lift kits. which one for me?

[turboranger91]

last night, i got a fantastic deal on a set of pro comp m/t with only about 2000 miles on them. i got my tax return back and want to get a lift. now, i was looking into the rough country 4", but upon asking around, i've determined that that may not be the lift for me. most say that it's a great lift for occasional mild off roading. however, i'm looking to do a bit more than that. lately, we've been going out every weekend at a few local spots. a few of them are pretty rugged. so, here's the question that i ask to the more experienced members here.

which kit should i get for what i'm wanting to do? not into super hard core stuff and i'd like to keep the lift at 4-6". also, i don't want to spend $1500 either. that's the main thing i liked about the rough country lift was the price point. for what it was, $600 was a great deal. i've already got the shackle lift and i've got a set of f-150 seats that i'm going to install this weekend, and i've been running 31's for a while now. they do fine, but i need more clearance.

any advice, suggestions, web links, pictures, etc... is greatly appreciated.
i've looked into sky jacker but they're just too damn proud of their kits, lol.

 

[Tbars4]

...Click on the "How to" in my signature...It has links to lots of info including lots of pics..

 

[turboranger91]

did a bit more digging. i found another lift that i think might be a viable option.

the superlift 5.5" lift. part# k491
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SLF-K491&N=700+115&autoview=sku

 

[Tbars4]

...:scratch:...I didn't see extended Radius arms in that package...

 

[turboranger91]

...:scratch:...I didn't see extended Radius arms in that package...

is that something i need?

sorry, i don't know a ton about suspensions, but i do appreciate the help.

edit* copied from the superlift website:



New pre-set coil springs provide lift. In the introduction we discussed how negative camber is induced (the tops of the tires lean outward) as the vehicle is raised. Superlift uses new axle pivot brackets, laser-cut from .25” steel plate, to lower the inboard ends of the axle beams and restore camber. New camber alignment bushings, available from your Ford dealer or local alignment shop, may be needed to precisely “dial-in” camber angle. Caster angle must also be addressed. Caster correction is handled by your choice of either lowering the stock radius arms at their frame (rear) end attaching points, the route taken with our Standard Series system, or by replacing the stock radius arms entirely with our extended length Superunner Long-Arm radius arms.

The Standard Series method replaces the factory radius arm brackets with longer brackets laser-cut from .25” plate steel. The Superunner Long-Arm radius arms offer caster correction plus additional benefits. The arms are considerably longer than stock, and increase the amount of usable bind-free suspension extension travel. This makes it easier for the tires to travel independently and stay in contact with the road or trail surface. The longer arms also reduce the degree of caster change the vehicle experiences as the suspension goes through its travel cycle. These factors combine to improve overall driveability and ride quality. You’ll experience a noticeable difference both on- and off-road.

We offer two different products to correct steering linkage angle; on most lifted TTB Fords simply installing our dropped pitman arm alone will result in satisfactory steering characteristics. The dropped arm, used in conjunction with our industry award winning Superunner steering linkage upgrade, delivers optimum steering traits; click here for more info. Superunner Steering System Even in stock form, the Ford TTB steering seems somewhat vague. On off-camber or less than ideal driving surfaces, it takes continuous corrective steering input to keep the vehicle pointed straight. When the vehicle is raised, these inherent tendencies are magnified, creating two areas of concern: 1) Minimizing tie rod angles, 2) Keeping the tie rods’ arc of movement in phase with the axle beams’ arc of movement. These two factors “make or break” driveability. When this geometry is incorrect, it causes excessive toe-in / toe-out variations as the suspension travels, resulting in the TTB Ford version of “bump-steer”. Superlift offers two methods to correct steering. Our dropped pitman arm reduces some of the additional steering linkage angle created by the increased ride height. Our pitman arm, used with our Superunner replacement steering linkage system, addresses both problems. The new steering system uses a centerlink to further reduce tie rod angles, and the new tie rods are more proportional in length to the axle beams. The result is steering linkage that is more in phase with the suspension.

The most popular and least expensive method of rear lift is via blocks. Add-a-leafs, and different height blocks are available for all applications; most applications have replacement rear spring options available as well.

*(also refers to 1993-1997 Mazda B-series pickups)

 

[1993fordexploere]

togh country is a good lift. only problem is its a 4 inch lift and it only lifts the back like 3 inches so you would have to add shacles to lvl it. personally if i was on a budget i would by shackles and f150 coil seats (which makes a 2 inch lift) then do a 2-3 inch bl. then you get 4-5 inches of lift(which clears 33's) for about $350-$400 bucks.

shackles about $65.00 ( these actually can lift you between 1 12 inches to 2 inches) or if there are dif ones search "war153 shackles"

http://www.tellico4x4.com/product_info.php/products_id/6362

coil spacers are explensive so go and get f150 coil seats from a ford dealership. they lift you 2 inches in the front. they are about $30.00 i think.

then a body lift.
http://www.4-wheel-drive-lift-kits.com/792-pa-1990-94-2--ford-explorer---body-lift-kit.html

or

http://www.4-wheel-drive-lift-kits.com/793-pa-1990-94-3--ford-explorer---body-lift-kit.html

hope this helped!! and make sure no matter what lift you get gte a allignment!!!!

 

[turboranger91]

togh country is a good lift. only problem is its a 4 inch lift and it only lifts the back like 3 inches so you would have to add shacles to lvl it. personally if i was on a budget i would by shackles and f150 coil seats (which makes a 2 inch lift) then do a 2-3 inch bl. then you get 4-5 inches of lift(which clears 33's) for about $350-$400 bucks.

shackles about $65.00 ( these actually can lift you between 1 12 inches to 2 inches) or if there are dif ones search "war153 shackles"

http://www.tellico4x4.com/product_info.php/products_id/6362

coil spacers are explensive so go and get f150 coil seats from a ford dealership. they lift you 2 inches in the front. they are about $30.00 i think.

then a body lift.
http://www.4-wheel-drive-lift-kits.com/792-pa-1990-94-2--ford-explorer---body-lift-kit.html

or

http://www.4-wheel-drive-lift-kits.com/793-pa-1990-94-3--ford-explorer---body-lift-kit.html

hope this helped!! and make sure no matter what lift you get gte a allignment!!!!

thanks for all the input. i've already got a set of 2" shackles on the rear now. i picked up a set of coil spring seats last weekend from the junk yard. i'll be installing them this weekend. i probably will end up installing a body lift at some point, but i don't want that to be the only lift i've got. i am trying to stay as inexpensive as possible, but i've got a good bit of money set aside for this project. i definitely want a good suspension lift.

keep in mind, guys... this is my very first 4x4 and i've only had it a few months. i'm fairly new to all the 4x4 stuff, but not vehicles in general. i'm pretty mechanically inclined, and would feel confident installing the lift myself. an alignment at the end is a complete given. i like my new tires too much to just eat them away driving to work and back. lol.

 

[1993fordexploere]

all i have is 4 inch tough country with 33's im almost 6 ft and half to pull myself in lol. with new tires and the lift im sitting atleast 6 inches over stock probaly a little more

 

[turboranger91]

that looks really good. i looked up the 4" tough country lift and it says that shocks are not included. exactly which shocks would i need to get?

 

[1993fordexploere]

that looks really good. i looked up the 4" tough country lift and it says that shocks are not included. exactly which shocks would i need to get?

you can add them with the order. just add them. lol the total comes to like
$7xx.oo. lol it says max tire size will be 31x10.50....you can run that stock lol...

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/248504.html

 

[turboranger91]

you can add them with the order. just add them. lol the total comes to like
$7xx.oo. lol it says max tire size will be 31x10.50....you can run that stock lol...

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/248504.html

the site says $567 and then they add $114 for shocks. do they charge shipping? if so, than i'd be better off going with the same kit from 4wheelonline.com for $722.

 

[1993fordexploere]

the site says $567 and then they add $114 for shocks. do they charge shipping? if so, than i'd be better off going with the same kit from 4wheelonline.com for $722.

i think its free shipping for prices over a x amount of dollars. idk though

 

[kxexplorer]

1993fordexploere, your x looks great. Are those 33x10.50's?

might check this link out for cheap lift. Look at glfrederick's post

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234001&highlight=cheap+lift+flex

 

[4x4junkie]

did a bit more digging. i found another lift that i think might be a viable option.

the superlift 5.5" lift. part# k491
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SLF-K491&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Stay away from Superlift. Their brackets like to crack.

Tuff Country isn't too bad, but if you think you'll be playing pretty hard, Skyjacker is really the only one that seems to really hold up well (James Duff makes a fairly decent kit too, but IMO, I still don't think it's quite as good as Skyjacker either).

 

[turboranger91]

Stay away from Superlift. Their brackets like to crack.

Tuff Country isn't too bad, but if you think you'll be playing pretty hard, Skyjacker is really the only one that seems to really hold up well (James Duff makes a fairly decent kit too, but IMO, I still don't think it's quite as good as Skyjacker either).

is it a spot that i could weld some additional steel to strengthen it up or is it just junk?

i've done a ton of reading over the last several days, and that kit (superlift 5.5" # K491) looks like the best option at this point. i can't even find one from skyjacker (other than the 2" coil springs). like i said, i'm willing to spend a decent bit of money... i mean, i don't want to get raked over the coals in pricing, but i also don't want a kit that's going to fail on the first creek crossing. lol.

 

[BLOODBANE]

I did a write up on how to gusset the Superlift bracket. Check here if you buy the SuperLift Kit....http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230697&highlight=fix+SuperLift+brackets
After doing this fix I haven't had any problems(and yes I wheel mine pretty hard)

 

[turboranger91]

would i be correct in assuming that it'd be the same for the 5.5"?

 

[turboranger91]

just out of curiosity, what is the compatibility of ranger parts to explorer parts (lift kit wise)?

 

[Four0Sport]

if youre looking for a skyjacker lift then yes, you want to look it up for a Ranger as they dont list it for Explorers. for the most part you can use any ranger lift up to 1997, the only difference being rangers are spring over axle (while explorers are spring under) and the lifts for the rear usually consist of blocks or AAL. if youre lifting your vehicle anything more than 2" then you want to make sure you get a lift kit that has new rear leaf packs for a lifted vehicle.

 

[tommygun]

anyone use the BDS system?

and spring over rear with a add a leaf?