33x12.50s on a 2" lift?

[cmhaah06]

Ok, i know this idea has been played with and I know it might not work. I'm getting the tires for free and I so I am willing to try to do what i can to make them fit. So is anybody running a setup like this? Pics would be nice.

I am expecting to have to trim in the front, not worried about that part. if anybody has any suggestions on how to make the trimming go smoothly, I am open to ideas. Pics welcome on this idea as well.

As always opinions are welcome and appreciated.

 

[techieman33]

Just spend the $200 on a 3" body lift.

 

[dangerrangerstx]

please no body lifts. I fit 33s on a stock ranger with cuting. And my friend put 32s on a navjo with cutting

 

[Freshmeat]

I'm running 34x10.50s on 2" lift. Your problem will be with the width of the 12.50s. I believe you can take enough out of the front to clear, but be VERY cautious in the rear and hammer down all the pinch seams in the fender well. My 34x10.50s clear in the back on 15x8s with 4" backspacing, but I don't know how 33x12.50s would do with whatever wheels you choose to run.

Tips on trimming the front:

Take out as little of the inner fender as possible, to keep the mud off the engine and wiring.

I ended up cutting off the bottom 6" or so and zip-tying them to both the fender inner bracing (you'll see it once you get the foam out of the door jamb) and the frame below the A/C (on both sides, there's a hole through the frame- on the driver side it's the hole for the speedometer cable) to keep it out of the way out of the tire. Use strong zip-ties and use two on each connection. I used an existing screw hole to attach to the fender bracing and cut a hole to attach it to the fender. For the front side, just let it rub the poly inner a few times around the yard, see WHERE it's rubbing, and clear it the best you can, but don't cut out all of the angling, as that's what provides a lot of the strength. I didn't look into cutting out all of the angling and tying it up elsewhere because I didn't need that much clearance. Also, be sure to leave at least one of the bolts on the front to add to the stability. Follow those basic instructions and you'll clear the tires while maintaining the stock inner fender for maximum engine protection.

For the fender sheet metal I had to cut through the front bolt hole (out of two) on the back side of the fender and I just lopped off the corner of the front of the fender opening. No big deal.

Go buy a 6# mallet and hammer the piss out of any pinch seams or corners that piss you off. You'll want to knock down the pinch going vertically (this one can slice the tires), as well as the one going horizontally, just to be safe.

Here is mine on its maiden voyage, stuffing the rear tire...

I hope this helps you out. Don't let anyone fool you- it can be done.

 

[techieman33]

please no body lifts. I fit 33s on a stock ranger with cuting. And my friend put 32s on a navjo with cutting

What's so bad about a body lift, yes it's not ideal, but obviously he wants to do this on the cheap.

I'm running 34x10.50s on 2" lift. Your problem will be with the width of the 12.50s. I believe you can take enough out of the front to clear, but be VERY cautious in the rear and hammer down all the pinch seams in the fender well. My 34x10.50s clear in the back on 15x8s with 4" backspacing, but I don't know how 33x12.50s would do with whatever wheels you choose to run.

Tips on trimming the front:

Take out as little of the inner fender as possible, to keep the mud off the engine and wiring.

I ended up cutting off the bottom 6" or so and zip-tying them to both the fender inner bracing (you'll see it once you get the foam out of the door jamb) and the frame below the A/C (on both sides, there's a hole through the frame- on the driver side it's the hole for the speedometer cable) to keep it out of the way out of the tire. Use strong zip-ties and use two on each connection. I used an existing screw hole to attach to the fender bracing and cut a hole to attach it to the fender. For the front side, just let it rub the poly inner a few times around the yard, see WHERE it's rubbing, and clear it the best you can, but don't cut out all of the angling, as that's what provides a lot of the strength. I didn't look into cutting out all of the angling and tying it up elsewhere because I didn't need that much clearance. Also, be sure to leave at least one of the bolts on the front to add to the stability. Follow those basic instructions and you'll clear the tires while maintaining the stock inner fender for maximum engine protection.

For the fender sheet metal I had to cut through the front bolt hole (out of two) on the back side of the fender and I just lopped off the corner of the front of the fender opening. No big deal.

Go buy a 6# mallet and hammer the piss out of any pinch seams or corners that piss you off. You'll want to knock down the pinch going vertically (this one can slice the tires), as well as the one going horizontally, just to be safe.

Here is mine on its maiden voyage, stuffing the rear tire...

I hope this helps you out. Don't let anyone fool you- it can be done.

Just because it can be done doesn't mean it should be done. That thing looks like it flexes about as well as my lowered street truck. Which isn't going to do much for you off road.

 

[dangerrangerstx]

ive seen 36 or 38s on a 1 in lift or stock cherokee

 

[techieman33]

Here's 52" tires with no lift, again just because it's possible doesn't mean it's a good idea.

 

[Freshmeat]

Just because it can be done doesn't mean it should be done. That thing looks like it flexes about as well as my lowered street truck. Which isn't going to do much for you off road.

It outflexed all the mild Jeeps on the trail that day and certainly flexes better than an Explorer with stock springs and shocks. Body lift doesn't increase flex, so why push that over a suspension lift then argue that the suspension lift doesn't flex enough?

 

[dangerrangerstx]

if u wheel hard ull see it come thew the floor

 

[techieman33]

It outflexed all the mild Jeeps on the trail that day and certainly flexes better than an Explorer with stock springs and shocks. Body lift doesn't increase flex, so why push that over a suspension lift then argue that the suspension lift doesn't flex enough?

Is a real suspension lift better? Well yeah of course it is. The spacers and shackles you probably have aren't helping you any more than a body lift would though. And from the pics it looks like your stuffing the tires into the fenders before it had a chance to flex much. I reccomended (or "pushed" as you say) the body lift because it sounds like he didn't want to spend a whole lot of money, and a 4" suspension lift isn't cheap.

 

[corkey]

hmmm, $200 for a body lift, ,

or,,,

$2500 for a suspension lift,

hmmm, same tires, both lifts,,

i was at Smorr and saw all the trucks go up the RTI ramp,,, it seemed to me the body lifted and the suspension lifted only went up the ramp the same distance,, so,, i would say flex is about the same,,

one is just a whole lot cheaper,,

 

[dangerrangerstx]

2500 for what?

 

[techieman33]

hmmm, $200 for a body lift, ,

or,,,

$2500 for a suspension lift,

hmmm, same tires, both lifts,,

i was at Smorr and saw all the trucks go up the RTI ramp,,, it seemed to me the body lifted and the suspension lifted only went up the ramp the same distance,, so,, i would say flex is about the same,,

one is just a whole lot cheaper,,

While that's true on the 2nd gens, the 1st gens actually can get some more flex out of a suspension lift. The ifs on the 2nd gen prevents any gain in suspension travel without spending a lot of money on something like the dixon brothers long travel kit.

 

[corkey]

sorry , me bad, i thought it was about 2nd gen, ,

 

[Blee1099]

me bites my tongue..

 

[Freshmeat]

Is a real suspension lift better? Well yeah of course it is. The spacers and shackles you probably have aren't helping you any more than a body lift would though. And from the pics it looks like your stuffing the tires into the fenders before it had a chance to flex much. I reccomended (or "pushed" as you say) the body lift because it sounds like he didn't want to spend a whole lot of money, and a 4" suspension lift isn't cheap.

A perfect example why you shouldn't assume- I have 2" Skyjacker coils up front, Procomp shocks (cheap but ride great) for 2" lift up front, and ******* packed rear springs. Less than $300, plenty of flex, and I'm clearing 34s.

Speculate all you want on how badly it would "probably" limit me on the trails, but I'm done with the argument because I know for a fact it works better than I'd hoped ON THE TRAILS.

 

[techieman33]

A perfect example why you shouldn't assume- I have 2" Skyjacker coils up front, Procomp shocks (cheap but ride great) for 2" lift up front, and ******* packed rear springs. Less than $300, plenty of flex, and I'm clearing 34s.

Speculate all you want on how badly it would "probably" limit me on the trails, but I'm done with the argument because I know for a fact it works better than I'd hoped ON THE TRAILS.

Well if it works for you then that's great, but I don't think a lot of people would be willing to butcher their rigs like that, especially in the rust belt.

 

[94Jo]

Here's 52" tires with no lift, again just because it's possible doesn't mean it's a good idea.

Thats only the 2nd picture ive ever seen of this dodge, anyone got any more or details, its haunting me to know how/if it turns. FRESHMEAT- What tool did you use exactly? i want to know how to get a nice solid line, and what i can control the best while cutting, thanks.

 

[Freshmeat]

Thats only the 2nd picture ive ever seen of this dodge, anyone got any more or details, its haunting me to know how/if it turns. FRESHMEAT- What tool did you use exactly? i want to know how to get a nice solid line, and what i can control the best while cutting, thanks.

I went to the local Harbor Freight store and bought a $20 angle grinder, a pack of cut-off wheels, and a grinding disc (or maybe the grinding disc came with the grinder...) for under $30- tools you're going to love having around. I know plenty of guys running the HF grinder for years with no trouble.

Anyway- the best thing you can do is tape it off where you want to cut it. Just a general line. From there, you'll end up cutting several more times. You're NOT going to get it just right the first time. Cut it a little shallow the first time and work your way farther back if you want. You can always cut more, but it's almost impossible to put it back (unless you can weld or want to add a fender swap to your list.)

Be sure to use the grinding wheel to smooth out all the edges so you don't cut yourself on the rough cuts. I've thought about getting something like cheap door molding to cover the cuts just to make sure it's a bit safer.

 

[Welshdragon79]

Do what works for you

I run the 3" body lift and the 2" spacers with 2" shackles. Works good and gives the suspension plenty of room to flex out. Really, the major limiting points are going to be the forward leaf spring purches, transmission crossmember, and fuel tank. I like the body lift because it gives the suspension more up travel before hitting the fender wells. If it's a money issue do what works and get out and go wheeling, cause thats what we really want to do. Spend the extra you save from the suspension kit on a good rear locker and build ya a good rear bumper and sliders.

Truck- $3000
BL- $100
Shackles- $60
Spacers- $50
Rear bumper- material cost ($70) and pizza for the guy with the welder