4th Gen Explorer Pictures

[NHarris]

What?! ANOTHER 3-4" of lift?! Dude, I'm running 33's with only the truxxx lift plus 13mm et. wheels. With the right offset and just a 1 1/2 - 2" body lift I could fit 35's.

Damn dude how do you afford the gas with 33's?!?! You have an XLS so I'd assume its the 3.55 with the V6.

 

[renzAy34134]

how you fit 33's with just truxxx? how much you rubbin? I was rubbin a little with my 32's and truxxx. With my 3" body and truxxx I surprisingly dont have that much room in the front and rear. I have a ass ton of room height wise but not too much when i turn. I would like to have 35's **** if I could get away with rancho quick lift 1.75" and run 35's I would be more than elated. But I think Without some major fender trimming I will have to lift more. But I hear someone on here is making cuztom UCA for 4th gens so that will help. Now I will just need to figure out a diff drop down bracket and how to cut out the frame so my axels dont rub. But if anyone has any other ideas. Let me know!

 

[King of So Cal]

how you fit 33's with just truxxx? how much you rubbin? I was rubbin a little with my 32's and truxxx. With my 3" body and truxxx I surprisingly dont have that much room in the front and rear. I have a ass ton of room height wise but not too much when i turn. I would like to have 35's **** if I could get away with rancho quick lift 1.75" and run 35's I would be more than elated. But I think Without some major fender trimming I will have to lift more. But I hear someone on here is making cuztom UCA for 4th gens so that will help. Now I will just need to figure out a diff drop down bracket and how to cut out the frame so my axels dont rub. But if anyone has any other ideas. Let me know!

It rubbed a bit when the tires were new.. but now that their worn down a little it doesn't rub at all.

And yes Nate, 3.55's with the V6, terrible gas mileage. I'm putting in around $100-$125 a week. Its killing me right now.

 

[NHarris]

And yes Nate, 3.55's with the V6, terrible gas mileage. I'm putting in around $100-$125 a week. Its killing me right now.

Someone needs to do a re-gear.

 

[renzAy34134]

I totally agree. Since when I get my truck higher with 35's Im going to need to re-gear. And I have no idea where to even start.

 

[NHarris]

I totally agree. Since when I get my truck higher with 35's Im going to need to re-gear. And I have no idea where to even start.

PM ronin8002. He just re-geared his Ex from 3.55's to 4.10's. I'm sure he'll help you out.

 

[renzAy34134]

sweetness! Thanks for the info

 

[The Electrician]

renzAy34134 your truck is rear wheel drive, so it is very easy to re-gear it

and with 35" I suggest 4.30 or higher

here are the info for the rear end

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317166

Ring and Pinion set: Standard Rotation Ford 8.8 Ring and Pinion Set

Ring Gear Bolts: 10
Pinion Spline Count: 30
Ring Gear Rotation: Standard
Ring Gear Diameter: 8.800 in.
Pinion Shaft Diameter: 1.626 in.

Available ratio From Ford Racing

3.08 - FMS-M-4209-F308
3.27 - FMS-M-4209-F327
3.55 - FMS-M-4209-G355A
3.73 - FMS-M-4209-F373N
4.10 - FMS-M-4209-G410A
4.30 - FMS-M-4209-G430M
4.56 - FMS-M-4209-G456

Also from Yukon Gear & Axle

3.08 - YG F8.8-308
3.27 - YG F8.8-327
3.31 - YG F8.8-331
3.55 - YG F8.8-355
3.73 - YG F8.8-373
3.90 - YG F8.8-390
4.11 - YG F8.8-411
4.30 - YG F8.8-430
4.56 - YG F8.8-456
4.88 - YG F8.8-488
5.13 - YG F8.8-513
5.71 - YG F8.8-571
6.14 - YG F8.8-614

Also from Nitro Gear

2.73 - F8.8-273-NG
3.08 - F8.8-308-NG
3.31 - F8.8-331-NG
3.55 - F8.8-355-NG
3.73 - F8.8-373-NG
3.90 - F8.8-390-NG
4.11 - F8.8-411-NG
4.30 - F8.8-430-NG
4.56 - F8.8-456-NG
4.88 - F8.8-488-NG
5.13 - F8.8-513-NG
5.71 - F8.8-571-NG
6.14 - F8.8-614-NG

Also From Motive Gear

3.08 - F888308
3.27 - F888327
3.31 - F888331
3.55 - F888355
3.73 - F888373
3.90 - F888390
4.10 - F888410
4.30 - F888430
4.56 - F888456
4.88 - F888488
5.14 - F888514
5.71 - F888571
6.14 - F888614

Also from Richmond Gear

3.55 - 49-0103-1
3.73 - 49-0104-1
3.89 - 69-0311-1
4.10 - 69-0310-1
4.33 - 69-0376-1
4.56 - 69-0312-1
4.88 - 69-0382-1

 

[renzAy34134]

the yukon gear an axle is only two pieces? I looked it up and only found two [parts? This seems way too easy to install. Or is it really that easy?

 

[Ronin8002]

It's not about just throwing a ring and pinion gear in there (the two pieces). There are some really important tolerances and patterns that need to be set up by somebody who knows what they're doing.

Expect installation to run about 350 in addition to the cost of the gears....more if they have to go thru the labor of pulling the diff from the truck instead of you bringing the diff in.

Also think about doing any upgrades or improvements while the diff is out....such as replacing bearings, or adding traction devices.

It adds up quick but if you do it right it'll last the life of the truck and be a great improvement.

 

[renzAy34134]

just getting the rack and pinion gears is around 200+- a little. Can you also add a locker to this or is it an entire assembly? I Know what lockers do but ive never gotten a chance to see where they are or get mounted. Or if its soemthing you install inside the diff with the two gears.

 

[Ronin8002]

Yes a locker can be added to the ring and pinion. It is separate from the ring and pinion because it either goes inside the stock carrier (aka a lunchbox locker) or it replaces the carrier entirely (a full carrier locker or full carrier limited slip unit).

Main deciding factor is cost of the traction device...you'll have the whole assembly apart anyway for the gear swap so the labor isn't really an issue.

 

[renzAy34134]

Whats some of the costs. Ive looked into a couple but all seem around 700 and ive seen a couple as much as 1200. Anything a little more reasonable aka cheaper?

 

[Ronin8002]

Cost depends on how fancy you want to get. If you go with an automatic locker you can save some money.

Cheapest automatic locker would probably be the Aussie locker... I love mine so far. $400 "all in"...meaning that's with modifications, fluids, sealants, etc.

Here's the writeup on how to install one:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=318076

Next up in cost would probably be the detroit full carrier locker (also automatic). I have heard it can be a bit harsh the way it engages when you are on the street, but not sure if that is true specifically with our trucks. I have heard similar things about the aussie locker and I hardly know it's back there on mine. I am sure someone on the forum has a detroit on their X and has talked about it...try searching for something like "detroit locker."

After that you're looking at manually activated lockers like the ARB, Ox, and Eaton E-locker. All of those are expensive and they all require some additional work to put in the activation cable/circuit/air compressor/etc. But you get to control when it's locked and when it's not...so that could be worth the difference in money if that is important to you.

For limited slips, I wouldn't go with anything but an Eaton TrueTrac. Around the the same price as a detroit locker roughly.

My opinion, I haven't really seen the need for a manual locker in the rear axle yet. As I said I hardly know the aussie locker is back there. It does make a ratcheting noise in slow turns, but that doesn't bother me. You have to be a bit more conservative with how you accellerate out of turns with an auto locker...too much gas going through the turn and you'll chirp your tires on dry pavement or possibly fishtail in slick conditions. I'm not worried about that either because once I put in the 3" lift I slowed down my turns a lot anyway because of body roll so I don't have any problems.

 

[renzAy34134]

holy crap thats amazing. I was hoping someone did a writeup on this. Honestly with me being 5.5"s over stock and going a little higher I drive very conservative. That and im used to fishtailing in my X cuz well.... I love to fishtail..lol. But not since the lift. So I dont think ill have an issue with that. Im surprised only 400. So the only way to know if the spacer thing will work is just try it and if not have it machined? Other than that perfect. Thank you!

 

[Ronin8002]

You'll definitely need to have the hole in the middle opened up regardless. No way to get the axles back in otherwise.

As far as fitting the center pin in, you really don't need to have the spacer machined down in thickness....just sand down your thrust washers or use thinner ones like I did.

 

[renzAy34134]

 

[NHarris]

I like that ground clearance. Too bad you couldnt flip the hitch to make it looks more like you have no BL.

 

[renzAy34134]

yea unfortunately its welded on straight to the frame. so i would have to cut it off then add a 3 inch bracket and weld it back on. Not hard I just dont have access to a welder right now.

 

[NHarris]

yea unfortunately its welded on straight to the frame.

There is the one thing I dislike most about the 4th gens. Although Tower Automotive (02-05 frame manufacturer) doesnt know how to drill a straight hole in a hitch. One of the hitch pin holes is slighty off from the other. Just enough to make it a PITA to get a hitch pin through sometimes.