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f150/expedition tow hooks

Xeek

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Joined
March 21, 2010
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City, State
Virginia Beach, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 xlt
anyone have pics of them mounted on the front? i can not figure out the best way. even with my cut up bumper i cant figure a way out. so far the only way ive found is with no bumper at all. i would rather have the bolt in the slot on the rear hole, not a washer holding it against the big square opening. and id rather have it mounted using 2 bolts.
unless mounting it using just 1 bolt is ok?

said hooks:
sizeimage.php
 



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inside:
where my fingers are is where the bumper brackets bolt to, and where they pass through have a tube on the inside of the frame around them blocking me from doing anything farther then 1.5"
DSC_2485.jpg

DSC_2486.jpg


i think i may have found the answer, the 2 X's. seem fine for 1/2" holes at these two spots?
DSC_2489-.jpg
 






as long as they are low enough to clear the bumper then i dont see why not. i have the same tow hooks and have had them for over a year...still yet to find time to put them on.
 












my bumpers already so chopped up so i dont really care. i did test fit it and i have to notch out a small section. not due to it not hanging low enough, it does clear height wise. but in order to put those bolts there its forward a lot more and fits the bumper.

since there seems to be no issues with being so close to the edge ill drill em out tomorrow and bolt it up. then ill post pics of what i mean of why i have to notch the bumper to do it.
 






Most tow hook setups use that big oval hole in one way or another, whether it's for the rear bolt, or the front bolt if the front section is in the way. I'd think you could mount those using the oval hole for the front bolt in those hooks, then drill the back. Use a big fat rectangular metal plate with a hole drilled in it to put inside the frame, and put the bolt through there too, then drop the bolt through the plate, down through the tow hook, and use the washer/nut on the bottom to pull it together.

If the bottom bumper mount hole sleeve is in the way of getting a bolt in there vertically using the oval hole for the rear bolt in the tow hook, I'd agree the location with the 2 x's might seem to be the easiest solution, but I think it's going to be a little weak since even though it's drilling through 2 layers at the seam, there might not be much material on either side once drilled though, making it so any kind of off-center pull would twist/distort the frame mounting point, particularly because of how close the forward hole is to the very end.

Maybe not, but if you have a way to weld, I would say fill in the outside part of the bottom seam, and then add another .120/.125 flat metal piece on bottom for a flat mount and extra strength. Even if you don't do it now, you could always add it later.

My vote would be for having the hooks kicked back using the oval hole for the front bolt, or even drilling both holes in front/back of that hole since it's the lowest part. There should be enough space between the front of the frame and the loop to make it useful, and having it back farther will keep it from being the thing that kills the approach angle or gets hung up on stuff.
 






the problem is if i put holes in front and behind the oval hole, the hole is where the frame bends up, so it wouldnt be level.
using the rear hole in the oval hole, theres nowhere for the front hole to go.
using the front hole in the oval hole, its flat but i dont really like it that far back.
using the holes marked in the 3rd pic would be best and easiest.

and what do you mean by fill in the seam? add metal all the way across to make it level on the whole bottom?
i think i could shift the hook more inward, further into the double layer and corner, to strengthen it more, instead of at the edge of the seam.

im not really worried about approach angle much, its a 99% street truck, and it only ever sees mud or beach
 












ah damnit. that wont work, the inside only folds over up til the middle. so anime, you saying you weld a bead along the bottom and as much as i can on the inside maybe?

ronin, no. theyre L brackets, where my fingers are is where it bolts to, the it does a 90* turn and dangles in front of the frame and the bumper attaches to that.
 






ah damnit. that wont work, the inside only folds over up til the middle. so anime, you saying you weld a bead along the bottom and as much as i can on the inside maybe?

could you offset the hooks to the side a bit so that the inside fold doesn't present a problem?
 






it would have to be right in the middle. i guess it would act as a way to hold the frame together, since i dont think its welded, just folded over. so just go right in the middle, through both layers. ill have to measure and see if the bolt fits well between it
DSC_2486.jpg
 






My frame looks similar and the bolts go thru both layers of the folded metal.

it would have to be right in the middle. i guess it would act as a way to hold the frame together, since i dont think its welded, just folded over. so just go right in the middle, through both layers. ill have to measure and see if the bolt fits well between it
DSC_2486.jpg
 






yea i took the bumper back off. i never mentioned ive never touched the bracket-to-frame bolts before yesterday and they were sooooo easy to take off lol
anyway, stuck the hooks bolts on there and they fit between the layers with a couple mm's of double layerd frame on each side left over.
so thats where theyre going, on the X marked spots in above pic. now, should i have someone weld the seams inside and out, add extra metal for strength? or will it be fine?

when this is all done ill update the first post and this can serve as a quide for other people. since all the other threads are 3rd gen related or expired pics
 






I think it will be fine without welding.

yea i took the bumper back off. i never mentioned ive never touched the bracket-to-frame bolts before yesterday and they were sooooo easy to take off lol
anyway, stuck the hooks bolts on there and they fit between the layers with a couple mm's of double layerd frame on each side left over.
so thats where theyre going, on the X marked spots in above pic. now, should i have someone weld the seams inside and out, add extra metal for strength? or will it be fine?

when this is all done ill update the first post and this can serve as a quide for other people. since all the other threads are 3rd gen related or expired pics
 






It'll probably be ok without welding for now, and I'm sure it'll take a light pull okay, but my suggestion was to weld in something like a 1/2" wide strip of 1/8" steel along the bottom, on the outer part, basically to fill in the gap between the tow hook and the bottom of the frame, then weld on a 2" wide piece of 1/8" thick steel along the entire bottom. Then it would be both strong from being welded together, and from having all that steel there, rather than just the two layers of the frame sandwiched.

But that's thinking in terms of hardcore trail use pulls in sticky situations. If it's just for looks or something it'll be okay and still functional.

Like I said, you could always drill the holes and mount the hooks for now, then have any welding or additional metal added later. All you'd have to do is drill the holes in the bottom piece, then have that and the small filler piece welded in and re-mount the hooks.
 






I used standard tow hooks on mine. I went to a machine shop and has them make me rectanglular plates, as Anime said. The plates had holes drilled to attach the toe hooks to the plat, and to attach the plates to the frame rail through the existing crumple hole in the frame. It was simple as pie. If it does anything to the frame it strengthens it. No holes drilled or welds to weaken the frame.
 



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i think ill just do it as is for now, since i have no real way to tow on the front. thats why i have a half bumper, it got tore up putting the strap behind the bumper bracket lol
later on ill do as suggested and beef up the frame
 






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