oklagp1200r
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Deteriorated Body Mounts
- Thread starter himolin
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oklagp1200r
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What strikes me as very odd is most of us have the same bushing location go bad when all the bushings according to my Ford service manual are the same part number! My 01 has seen very limited salt from the roads here in the OKC, Oklahoma area over the time I have owned it since it was new in Sept. 2001. Something strange about this!
Gse Brent
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Daystar part number KF04009BK. Says it fits 2001 Explorer sport not sport trac however we all believe that it "should" work for our trucks. I'm ordering them from OK4WD priced at $147 before shipping.
oklagp1200r
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Gse Brent
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My daystar kit came today and it came with 24 bushings! Uppers and lowers. I'll post up some pictures later on when i can compare them to the truck. But by looking at them, it looks like you can use the majority of them if not all of them. Not gonna promise anything yet until i actually get them on the truck.
Gse Brent
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*REPOST*
Couldn't take any pics tonight by the truck because its raining out but i did take pics of the bushings themselves.
Here's the kit lay out
As in the instructions, here's what they recommend front to back.
Very front of the truck
Behind front wheel wells
These are the ones used beneath the seats about the middle of the truck and also used in the very back as in the instructions.
These ones would be used underneath the storage compartments as in the instructions.
Not sure what the little tiny ones are used for yet. Also i'm not saying all this will work in the places the instructions states, however i believe the majority of them can work. They may even have to be "rigged up" so to speak with the possibility of using longer bolts. I'll get some pics next to the stock bushings on the truck itself. Also this kit may lift it just a little bit more if you were able to use these bushings where the instructions want you to use them. Example would be the uppers beneath the seats look too tall with the 4 ring bushing, the 3 ring would fit better there. I'm just saying you may have to move uppers to lowers, fronts to backs etc etc. I'll know more later as i try to finagle this kit.
Couldn't take any pics tonight by the truck because its raining out but i did take pics of the bushings themselves.
Here's the kit lay out
As in the instructions, here's what they recommend front to back.
Very front of the truck
Behind front wheel wells
These are the ones used beneath the seats about the middle of the truck and also used in the very back as in the instructions.
These ones would be used underneath the storage compartments as in the instructions.
Not sure what the little tiny ones are used for yet. Also i'm not saying all this will work in the places the instructions states, however i believe the majority of them can work. They may even have to be "rigged up" so to speak with the possibility of using longer bolts. I'll get some pics next to the stock bushings on the truck itself. Also this kit may lift it just a little bit more if you were able to use these bushings where the instructions want you to use them. Example would be the uppers beneath the seats look too tall with the 4 ring bushing, the 3 ring would fit better there. I'm just saying you may have to move uppers to lowers, fronts to backs etc etc. I'll know more later as i try to finagle this kit.
Gse Brent
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Please check http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=336497&page=2 as i'll keep updating there.
OffTrac
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If this works out well and was only $150, I may be doing this sooner than expected. Mine aren't to the "necessary" point yet, but I try to stay ahead of the problems when I can.
archlab
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BODY MOUNTS: Here's a Good CHEAP FIX
This Engineered Failure (defined as: a way for Service Depts to make some $$$) can be fixed for next to $0 by the following method :
1) Get some 1/2" (or thicker) reinforced Rubber. Maybe Isolation pads
used for compressors, generators, etc are good items to emulate. I
guess you could cut some tires, but I'd rather use a flat piece. Plus,
the Isolation Rubber that I used had reinforcing that is fiberglass
threads, I think. Much easier to cut.
2) Now the most difficult part - Loosen your mounts...which means you've
probably removed the front seat(s), floor material/carpet & sprayed quart
of penetrating oil - I found that that new Soy Oil works pretty good, even
though it's still a beeatch). Oh, yeah, then theres the E-Brake Line - a
bit of a pain, but it comes off in a pretty straightforward fashion.
BTW: Don't remove the metal parts (bolts, threaded shaft,etc) of the
old Body Mounts, just loosen enough to get the new Isolators in there.
3) Use your old Body Mount/Isolator as a Template & cut the Rubber into a
Donut. NO! Do not use a utility knife, Fool! If you ain't got an air saw,
or access to a band saw, you need to get it. Don't blame me if you cut
off a finger !
3a) Cut a slit into the Donut (to make a 'C'). This will allow you to
slip the New Rubber onto the metal part of the Body Mount, which
is still on the vehicle.
3b) Insert one Donut & then Glue (I used an exterior construction
adhesive) a 2nd Donut (or as many as needed for good
compression) AT 90degrees (to stagger the joints.
3c) If you want, you can fab up some metal ( washers/ spacers) for
some extra rigidity on the New Isolators. In my case, I had already
sprung for a new universal fit Polyurethane Body Mount kit. It had
parts that would fit, but half of the kit didn't work - so, that's how
I got to Fabbing my own Isolators.
4) Put your Truck back together. And clean the grease off of your
wife's leather seats.
Anyway, I did one side on my Sport Trac: It is nice & firm, no noise & is still in place w/out any deformations after about 5 months. One day I'll get psyched up for the passenger side...when I feel like taking the dang interior apart again & raisin' hell w/ the Loc-Tited bolts (uggggh).
If Ford (& every other Car Mfr) is gonna 'build in' these kinds of Failure Points, then we MUST find ways to thwart this EVIL!
This solution Copyrighted by Archlab.
This Engineered Failure (defined as: a way for Service Depts to make some $$$) can be fixed for next to $0 by the following method :
1) Get some 1/2" (or thicker) reinforced Rubber. Maybe Isolation pads
used for compressors, generators, etc are good items to emulate. I
guess you could cut some tires, but I'd rather use a flat piece. Plus,
the Isolation Rubber that I used had reinforcing that is fiberglass
threads, I think. Much easier to cut.
2) Now the most difficult part - Loosen your mounts...which means you've
probably removed the front seat(s), floor material/carpet & sprayed quart
of penetrating oil - I found that that new Soy Oil works pretty good, even
though it's still a beeatch). Oh, yeah, then theres the E-Brake Line - a
bit of a pain, but it comes off in a pretty straightforward fashion.
BTW: Don't remove the metal parts (bolts, threaded shaft,etc) of the
old Body Mounts, just loosen enough to get the new Isolators in there.
3) Use your old Body Mount/Isolator as a Template & cut the Rubber into a
Donut. NO! Do not use a utility knife, Fool! If you ain't got an air saw,
or access to a band saw, you need to get it. Don't blame me if you cut
off a finger !
3a) Cut a slit into the Donut (to make a 'C'). This will allow you to
slip the New Rubber onto the metal part of the Body Mount, which
is still on the vehicle.
3b) Insert one Donut & then Glue (I used an exterior construction
adhesive) a 2nd Donut (or as many as needed for good
compression) AT 90degrees (to stagger the joints.
3c) If you want, you can fab up some metal ( washers/ spacers) for
some extra rigidity on the New Isolators. In my case, I had already
sprung for a new universal fit Polyurethane Body Mount kit. It had
parts that would fit, but half of the kit didn't work - so, that's how
I got to Fabbing my own Isolators.
4) Put your Truck back together. And clean the grease off of your
wife's leather seats.
Anyway, I did one side on my Sport Trac: It is nice & firm, no noise & is still in place w/out any deformations after about 5 months. One day I'll get psyched up for the passenger side...when I feel like taking the dang interior apart again & raisin' hell w/ the Loc-Tited bolts (uggggh).
If Ford (& every other Car Mfr) is gonna 'build in' these kinds of Failure Points, then we MUST find ways to thwart this EVIL!
This solution Copyrighted by Archlab.
Gse Brent
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Those bushings from daystar will work but they dont come with the sleeves and good luck breaking those sleeves apart. I ended up using one set of the daystar ones but couldnt free apart my other sleeves probably will regret it later but the majority of my bushings were still intact. Hanging on to my daystar kit though for that day to come.
Clusterpup
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When I do mine I'm going to buy a bolt with the same thread but maybe an inch longer and thread it back in a bit and beat them apart with a sledge. I hope the cab bolts are all the same thread.
Gse Brent
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Yea i wish this wasnt my daily driver and had more time to do everything right. At least i did replace one of the bushings (the one that no longer existed)
Clusterpup
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I also have just one that is gone. The others are still together so worst case I just change that one. I figure it will probably take me the whole weekend.
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archlab
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There's a Reason for So Many Similar Issues
It's called 'Designing in a Failure Point'. All manufacturers (not just Ford, or car mfrs, either) do this in some form or fashion. In Auto Mfr's case, they have to support there Parts & Service Operations + provide guaranteed work for their Dealer network. Body Mounts, rubber hoses, bushings, etc, are just some obvious examples for this 'Design Feature'. Others, such as proprietary parts, repairs that require special tools, or anything that introduces a SUBTLE way for something to require service (esp. beyond Warranty coverage) is an opportunity for revenue.
Many DIY-ers will thwart these repairs, but a large enough portion of owners will pay the Dealer for service (& parts). Not trying to sound cynical, but That's the American Way.
It's called 'Designing in a Failure Point'. All manufacturers (not just Ford, or car mfrs, either) do this in some form or fashion. In Auto Mfr's case, they have to support there Parts & Service Operations + provide guaranteed work for their Dealer network. Body Mounts, rubber hoses, bushings, etc, are just some obvious examples for this 'Design Feature'. Others, such as proprietary parts, repairs that require special tools, or anything that introduces a SUBTLE way for something to require service (esp. beyond Warranty coverage) is an opportunity for revenue.
Many DIY-ers will thwart these repairs, but a large enough portion of owners will pay the Dealer for service (& parts). Not trying to sound cynical, but That's the American Way.
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