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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
I knew you were keeping busy, I was just waiting to see what you were going to come up with next.
How's that knock retard system working? It's just too bad you can't datalog it in action directly. How are you using it to help pinpoint areas that its seeing detonation? I think it's a fantastic idea.
With classes out now, hopefully you will find more time to be creative with your truck.
Btw, I still don't understand temporarily installing original injectors to get o2's logging. Seems really strange to me.
wasnt that s7 there when i came by john? if it was, now i really kick myself for not getting there earlier!!!!!
now that i am looking at these pictures again, i have more questions for ya.
ok, i know you run the lighting m112, does it have a lip on the bottom of the case. also, how much room do you think you have below the core and the bottom of the intake. im still trying to figure out if i can sneak a cooler into the setup im doing and have it work correctly WITHOUT cutting the hood
[MENTION=102869]Dono[/MENTION],
The knock retard is working great, lately I have been real absent minded and have forgot to turn on the intercooler pump and fan when tuning. The knock retard steps right in. It can be datalogged by hooking up an output it has to one of the analog inputs on the SCT X3. I don't really need to log it since I already have a factory knock sensor that is datalogged with the rest of my sensors. If the Vampires kicks in I can see it on the gauge and then just look at the factory knock sensor in the datalog to see what rpm it happened at and remove timing, or turn the intercooler pump back on if I forgot. lol
I turn off the intercooler pump when reprogramming the pcm, everything should be off so the battery doesn't get drained. Just got to remember to turn it back on.
The factory knock sensor is good enough for tuning purposes but the Vampire is there for added protection.
My work/school is open all year round, we just close for a week in December. New classes start every 3 weeks and we also have graduations every three weeks. The students are there for about a year, or two if they take specialized courses. I teach in a Ford section we call FACT (Ford Accelerated Credential Training). It is a 5 phase(3 weeks) long program so it is 15 weeks all together.
I just happen to have a little time off right now so maybe I can get some stuff done.
The injector things was for Inspection. You have to have all but two monitors run to pass where I live. The evaporative monitor wont run until the two O2 sensor monitors run so I had three not ready. My O2 monitors would not run because the pcm wasn't able to switch the O2 sensor voltage back and forth quick enough. I tried all kinds of things and finally figured it was the injectors that were the reason. The yellow lines in the picture below are one of the O2 sensor voltages, they should have been going all the way up and down instead of hanging at the top like they did.
Where the red cursor is you can see the O2 voltage (in yellow) now cross counting like it should during the rapid response test. The green line shows the monitor attempting then actually passing when it finally goes all the way up where you see it like a step. This was with the smaller injectors.
[MENTION=61294]vroomzoomboom[/MENTION],
Yes it was there then. A shame we got locked out when we did. lol.
No lip on the M112 off the lightning.
Not much room below the intercooler, If I recall it is about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.
The intercooler itself is about 2 1/4 and it goes into the upper plate which is 1/2 inch. If I remember correctly my lower intake is 3 inches. Keep in mind I suffer from CRS (cant remember stuff) lol.
How tall is your lower intake?
Here's an idea to make that happen automatically. Use the oil pressure switch(called the sensor), to trigger an added relay. Then you can power anything that needs to run when the engine is running only(oil pressure), like that pump and fan, or headlights like I did with my work truck.
I also had an extra switch(for the relay) to be able to select between triggering those circuits just with oil pressure wire, or with the ignition power. The 98-01 oil pressure sensor is just an ON/OFF switch. 1997 and older were actual sensors(big one), for real gauges.
I was thinking as I get to setting up my intercooler to try to add a hobbs switch somewhere thats set to 1lb boost. Then, a relay and straight to the intercooler pump. An over ride would be nice for being at the track, but on daily duty, I'd think intermittent pump under boost would be all that's required.
I was thinking as I get to setting up my intercooler to try to add a hobbs switch somewhere thats set to 1lb boost. Then, a relay and straight to the intercooler pump. An over ride would be nice for being at the track, but on daily duty, I'd think intermittent pump under boost would be all that's required.
[MENTION=27215]CDW6212R[/MENTION] The only issue I see with that is that you always want the water as cold as possible. You would almost need some type of differential circuit that measured ambient temperature against coolant temperature. Now that would be cool, although a lot of work, and probably over thinking the whole thing.
[MENTION=27215]CDW6212R[/MENTION]
The oil pressure switch is a good idea, I may have to try that.
The coolant and hobbs (@Dono) ideas are great too, each could serve a purpose.
I think the factory lightning intercooler pump would come on only during boost, that would leave the coolant in the intercooler radiator colder and then when the pump came on it would really remove some heat during the peak IAT temps.
Those final touches make the vehicle better and more fun to drive.
If you would be doing more than a little racing, I'd have two new AC lines made, to route the refrigerant to/through the IC coolant reservoir. I'd install a small evaporator inside of it, where the stock battery was. Run the AC to really cool it down before a serious run. But that would require more than one program to handle such a wide range of IAT's. I've talked myself out of that idea, that's for race cars.
[MENTION=46529]CD[/MENTION]w6212
You would have to remove the factory evaporator if you wanted to use the one in the intercooler coolant reservoir at the track. If you run the AC the regular evaporator drips water from condensation and that makes the guys at the track angry. Cant have any water or anything leaking, could cause accidents.
I hear the announcer at Maplegrove Raceway twice a year when we have our students vs. instructors races tell everyone to turn off the ac and put the windows up. lol.
I do like the idea of using the AC to cool the intercooler coolant. I once saw an intercooler that was an evaporator, it went into the intake manifold. Cool stuff.
Pun intended.
[MENTION=61294]vroomzoomboom[/MENTION]
What is the length inside it?
What is the length from the outsides of two outermost holes? (if that makes sense)
If you could go 1/4 inch taller.....
Looks like Bell has cores up to 18 inches long in the 2.25 thick category. They have width of 2.9 inches but it might be a little bigger with welds.
The 2.25 x 2.9 x 18 core would be 277.00 according to the website. Then you have to have the end tanks custom built, and Nipple fittings or AN fittings plus labor to build and design. I wouldn't be surprised if it came out to twice the core price when done. You have to have patience to have one built as well. They do know what they are doing though, and you would be impressed with the finished product.
[MENTION=81804]4pointslow[/MENTION]
How much boost are you running?
Can a smaller pulley be installed on the M112?
Remind me again how much more volume a M112 is capable of over a M90.
ahodges,
I am seeing 14-15 lbs of boost
I have the smallest Metco pulley(2.7) that fits.
The snout could be ground down but Metco doesn't make a smaller puller.
Stiegemeier makes a smaller pulley but it is a different hub than Metco.
If you go smaller then you spin to the snout to fast and can acuse a lot of heat and damage it. Stiegemeier makes liquid cooled snouts that are already ground down if you wanted to up the boost. Of course this would all be with a port job to make the supercharger more efficient.
Another thing I was looking at was Stiegemeier's adaptor plate that allows the snout from a M122 (GT500) to be put on a Lightning or Cobra M112 supercharger. Then you could also have the rotors hollowed out to make them lighter, or even change the gears in the M112(snakebite kit).
Right now I am working on a way to get rid of my ugly hood scoop so I don't know which way I am going to go. I may just go M122 altogether. I ordered a 1/2 inch aluminum plate for testing purposes but wont see it till next week and I am trying to get to AtcoRaceway Tuesday or Thursday next week for test and tune if the weather is ok, so I cant take the truck apart yet.
M90 1475cc vs M112 1835cc vs M122 2000cc I think, some one correct me if I am wrong.
[MENTION=46529]CD[/MENTION]w6212
You would have to remove the factory evaporator if you wanted to use the one in the intercooler coolant reservoir at the track. If you run the AC the regular evaporator drips water from condensation and that makes the guys at the track angry. Cant have any water or anything leaking, could cause accidents.
I hear the announcer at Maplegrove Raceway twice a year when we have our students vs. instructors races tell everyone to turn off the ac and put the windows up. lol.
I do like the idea of using the AC to cool the intercooler coolant. I once saw an intercooler that was an evaporator, it went into the intake manifold. Cool stuff.
Pun intended.
Very true, roll up the windows and sweat in the box.
You'd have to make a catch pan under the evaporator, sealed, and be able to switch a drain open and closed. It'd be better than the big fans running in the pits to cool down the engine, I recall from going to our local 1/8 mile tracks. It's fun though, loud but fun.
I think the stock V6 and 302 have similar crank pulley sizes, for driving a blower. The 94/95 pulley is close to 6.5", and the Cobra version I have is like the stock balancer pulley, about 6".
BTW, I got a trusted confirmation that the KB 2.2 liter is enough to break the stock 302 block, so that's enough for mine. I may or may not need a 2nd one, I hope to find out by the Fall.
