Before I pull the head - Need Advice!

[2000StreetRod]

traction side

The traction side is the side that is pulled by the jackshaft. The slack side is the side with the hydraulic/spring tensioner. Try to pull up and push down the top of the guide assembly where the guide post is. There should be almost no vertical movement.

 

[2000StreetRod]

head bolt removal

In case you decide to remove the head:

Left and right heads have same bolt sequence.

 

[Daisywheels]

The traction side is the side that is pulled by the jackshaft. The slack side is the side with the hydraulic/spring tensioner. Try to pull up and push down the top of the guide assembly where the guide post is. There should be almost no vertical movement.

I'm having a huge problem with car speak. I cannot locate the guide post unless it's just the 1/2 in dimple next to the chain. I moved that orange plastic piece from front to back (if that's what you mean by "up and down)" and it does move just a bit. No where near 1/8 of an inch. But it is not stuck in place by any means.

Any ways, I will no more about what parts are where, and know the lingo if I take the head off. I also understand I have an extra chain with mine being a 4X4. See how easy you have it. Just kidding! -DW

 

[Daisywheels]

head bolt removal

That image you provided I think is from your head removal guide? I've read a few and recognize that image. I believe your guide dealt with both heads. Before I even think about going there, I'm charging up a cheap camera so I can mount it and take video of what the valve springs and rockers are doing when I crank the starter. I still have no idea. I'll probably post the video somewhere and give you a link. I don't know what order they are supposed to go up and down so to speak. If it has anything to do with firing order, then I would need the left valve cover off too. Not going to do that.

I'm trying to keep things simple here, and go back to the source of the problem and verify it. I sure wish I had an air compressor to find where compression is going. Just have a car tire inflator. -DW

 

[2000StreetRod]

guide post

The guide post is marked with a red arrow in two of the photos in post 19 of this thread. "pull up and push down" means move vertically. I try to be literally correct in my posts.

 

[Daisywheels]

The guide post is marked with a red arrow in two of the photos in post 19 of this thread. "pull up and push down" means move vertically. I try to be literally correct in my posts.

And I appreciate that! It's me who is half brained. But aren't you showing the left head in that photo? Because I can locate the pivot point on the right side head on my truck, but I cannot locate the guide post.

Don't worry about it, as I said, I'm not going to do anything with the timing chains unless I pull the head, and that's a 50/50 chance right now. Thanks again! -DW

 

[2000StreetRod]

guide post

The red arrow indicates the right head cassette guide post.

Pull up the guide at location marked with blue arrow.

 

[Daisywheels]

The red arrow indicates the right head cassette guide post.
View attachment 84432
Pull up the guide at location marked with blue arrow.

Okay. No up or down movement there, only very slight from side to side as I mentioned before.

I decided I AM going to pull the head. I'll use your guide and Haynes if needed.
If I can't do it, at least it is less labor for any mechanic I might have to wind up just selling it to. I'm only doing this because curiosity has got the best of me. I've got water in the oil. I want to find out why! Thanks again StreetRod. I do appreciate all of your help. -DW

 

[2000StreetRod]

head installation

Your post reminded me I never posted the head installation procedure.

 

[Daisywheels]

Your post reminded me I never posted the head installation procedure.

I noticed that. That's okay, I'll probably never get that far -DW

 

[Daisywheels]

Right valve train vid

Hey StreetRod, before I begin pulling the head, I went ahead and made video of the right valve train (2 mins). To help orient you, the first part is mostly the intake/exhaust valves for cylinder 3. At the end I got the light to work and shows much brighter including parts of cylinder #2 .

I can’t gather much from the video, and I am hoping you see something obvious. If not, no harm no foul in making the video. The only thing I notice is excessive fluid coming from the base of the exhaust valve spring on cylinder #3 . This may be perfectly normal. Please keep in mind there is still water in the oil. Thanks! -DW

https://youtu.be/3TxIhwbv0Ik

 

[2000StreetRod]

oiler tube?

I had to update my software before I could watch the video but finally saw it. I think most of the flow you're seeing is coming from the ports in the oiler tube above the cams. I didn't notice anything abnormal except for the foam in the oil from the coolant. Coolant in the oil pan collects on the bottom of the pan below the oil. If coolant is allowed to accumulate in the pan at some point only coolant will be pulled by the pick up tube and forced thru the bearings. Even though the engine is not under much load when cranking the starter, coolant is a poor lubricant for bearing surfaces. You need to find some way to pressurize the cooling system to identify the leak location. My guess is a crack in the head at a valve guide casting. Below is a photo of a stock chamber with valves.

 

[Daisywheels]

I had to update my software before I could watch the video but finally saw it. I think most of the flow you're seeing is coming from the ports in the oiler tube above the cams. I didn't notice anything abnormal except for the foam in the oil from the coolant. Coolant in the oil pan collects on the bottom of the pan below the oil. If coolant is allowed to accumulate in the pan at some point only coolant will be pulled by the pick up tube and forced thru the bearings. Even though the engine is not under much load when cranking the starter, coolant is a poor lubricant for bearing surfaces. You need to find some way to pressurize the cooling system to identify the leak location. My guess is a crack in the head at a valve guide casting. Below is a photo of a stock chamber with valves.
View attachment 84485

Thanks for taking a look at the valves. Just wanted to rule out anything obvious.

Instead of me pressurizing the cooling system, how about I have a machine shop pressurize the head? Yep, already started

This is my list of last steps, plus I have to cut the exhaust down pipe - it ain't coming off. I got lucky with the exhaust manifold.

• Remove the roller followers or position cylinder 1 at TDC
  
• Remove the RH side hydraulic chain tensioner
  
• Using the special tool with the Camshaft Sprocket Nut Socket 303-565, remove the RH camshaft bolt.
  
• Remove the RH side cassette bolt
  
• NOTICE: Remove the camshaft sprocket from the timing chain to gain clearance to remove the cylinder head.
  
  [*]NOTE: Hold the timing chain and cassette with a rubber band to aid in removal and to prevent the timing chain from falling into the cylinder block.
  
• Remove the RH camshaft sprocket from the timing chain. Install a rubber band around the cassette and the timing chain.
  
• Remove the cylinder head bolts

Yikes! -DW

 

[Daisywheels]

Camshaft Sprocket Nut Socket 303-565 & Extension

Nevermind - found a way.

 

[Daisywheels]

cam shaft position

Hey again StreetRod - Just was looking through your posts on timing the cam, and wanted to know if my current cam position is correct so I can reference it if/when I do have to time it. The crank shaft at the CKP is somewhere between 10 degrees and what appears to be a 0 mark. I assume the 0 is TDC. The lobes were not putting pressure on the valves for cylinder 1, but I took all the rockers off just to be safe. Please let me know what you think ---Thanks! -DW

 

[Daisywheels]

Another piece to the puzzle - I measured the valve stems from the retainer to the tip with the roller rockers off. All were 1/2" except cylinder 3 (the problem cylinder) where the valve closest to the firewall measured in at 1/4" - these are not precise dead on measurements (just used a tape measure), but pretty darn close.

I am still wondering if that is a sign of a stuck valve, or a burnt or bent valve. Is there any way to know based on this info? I really don't have the tools for a leakdown test or to pressurize the coolling system. And wouldn't it be something if I pulled the head without actually having to!

Steps left to pull the head:

1) Remove camshaft sprocket nut

2) Remove chain guide

3) Tie up chain just under cam sprocket

4) Remove sprocket

5) Remove head bolts

I believe the chain guide bolt is a T-30?, but the only T-30 I have is too long to even get the socket on it, let alone a wrench and socket. Thanks! -DW

 

[2000StreetRod]

timing marks

There are two timing marks on my camshaft: 10 BTDC and TDC. The lines are the marks and the number beside each line indicates which mark.

The camshaft timing slot position in your photo looks correct. I used an Allen wrench and calipers to measure mine.

I still suspect you have a damaged valve or valve spring in cylinder 3 but that doesn't explain the coolant/oil mix.

I have a very short length 1/4 inch drive Torx set that I purchased about 20 years ago. It looks the same as the 1/4 drive bits of the set Sears now sells.

 

[Daisywheels]

There are two timing marks on my camshaft: 10 BTDC and TDC. The lines are the marks and the number beside each line indicates which mark.
View attachment 84588
The camshaft timing slot position in your photo looks correct. I used an Allen wrench and calipers to measure mine.
View attachment 84589

I still suspect you have a damaged valve or valve spring in cylinder 3 but that doesn't explain the coolant/oil mix.

I have a very short length 1/4 inch drive Torx set that I purchased about 20 years ago. It looks the same as the 1/4 drive bits of the set Sears now sells.
View attachment 84590

Ok, thanks for the excellent info. I live pretty far away from major shopping malls, so any idea what size that guide post takes? T-30? I might be able to borrow it from my neighbor, but he won't loan a whole set. Thanks! -DW

 

[2000StreetRod]

T30

. . . I live pretty far away from major shopping malls, so any idea what size that guide post takes? T-30? I might be able to borrow it from my neighbor, but he won't loan a whole set. Thanks! -DW

As I recall it is T30.

 

[Daisywheels]

Broke Head bolt or bit?

I knew before I started there would be problems with these torx bolts holding downn the head. IMHO, there is NO REASON to use torx bolts - ESPECIALLY on the head - It's only asking for problems.

Anyways, It appears I broke the tip of my T-55 bit inside the bolt. Have no idea how to get that out. HELP? I was using a breaker bar, with a 1/2 to 3/8 2" extension for the 3/8 T-55 socket I had. Should I not have used a 3/8 inch drive socket?

It's off to the store to get a T-55 1/2 drive socket

-DW