150K miles and PCV valve never changed - any concerns?

[sehaare]

98 xlt sohc 4wd. So over the years I've played with replacing the PVC valve when I was doing something else on the XLT but it was always pretty much stuck and I couldn't get it out without doing damage to the "hose" where it is inserted.

Car now has 150K on it should I be concerned?

Any tips on replacing it where I don't damage the hose pulling it out so that it won't seal on the new one?

Should I just spray carb cleaner in it to make sure it is not gummed up?

Thanks

 

[koda2000]

Yes, way to many miles on your PCV valve. They wear out, get stuck, get full of crap. I just had the valve cover's off a Job 2 SOHC at 184k. The side with the PCV valve (original to the truck I'm sure) was full of sludge. The side with/out the valve was okay. I know the '98 PCV is in a different location and hard to change, but it should be done at least every 50k or so. I changed one on an '01 Job 1 SOHC a few years ago. it was hard to do and a bit scary. The hose tends to get hard and stiff with age, which makes it tuff to get the valve out.

 

[sehaare]

Yep my hose is rock hard. The last time I was in there i cold head the valve rattle as I shook it, and compared the sound to the new one that I had hoped to replace it with. It sounded the same so I'm pretty sure it was not stuck or plugged up. I didn't know that they could actually wear out, I always thought that they were basically a cheap check valve. Guess that I need to do some PVC 101 research.

 

[beach]

Don't know about the sohc, but on the 5.0 its def a good idea to replace even though its a complete pain in the ass on the 5.0. I also was having some oil leak from the PCV/Grommet being worn which is a known issue going way back to the 5.0 Stangs (didn't find out till after) and it'll drip right on the cats causing smoking. Couldn't track or see where the oil was coming from as it was only slight and b/c of the location on the 5.0 it can even make it look like the valve gaskets are leaking . Replaced it, cleaned up oil from rear under the block and bell housing, no issues since nor oil leaks.

 

[lobo411]

When it comes to cheap parts that cost less than a McBurger, I don't hesitate to replace.

 

[Flash]

It's easy to clean the PCV but as Lobo said, they're cheap.

 

[Flash]

YI just had the valve cover's off a Job 2 SOHC at 184k. The side with the PCV valve (original to the truck I'm sure) was full of sludge.

It must be the weather in your location, I've never had an engine with sludge in it and I'd be horrified if I did.
My Ex does cold starts and short trips but I take it for a run probably once a week.

The weather here has been described as close to Miami.

 

[sehaare]

When it comes to cheap parts that cost less than a McBurger, I don't hesitate to replace.

Cheap part is not the issue, on the sohc the bottom of PCV valve goes into a y-shaped hose which I think goes to both sides of the engine. From memory there is something like a clamp that you can release and the valve is supposed to come right out of the hose. Mine is stuck. It is located at the very back of the engine bay where you can't get at it very well and I don't want to tear the hose trying to get the valve loose in it (kind of like when a cooling hose is stuck on the radiator and you got to get it loose without ripping it).

Steve

Heck I've even had a new PCV valve rolling around in the compartment below the arm rest for years but did want to try and force the stuck one out.

 

[koda2000]

It must be the weather in your location, I've never had an engine with sludge in it and I'd be horrified if I did.
My Ex does cold starts and short trips but I take it for a run probably once a week.

The weather here has been described as close to Miami.

I've never had a vehicle with sludge in my live. In this particular case (an '01 Sports Trac I picked up for cheap) I'm sure it's due to severe neglect/lack of maintenance from everything else I've found on this vehicle. You should have seen the engine oil (I hesitate to call it oil) and what I removed from the oil pan when I dropped it. I've also drained the trans, replaced the filter and added 5 fresh quarts of Mercon V and the trans oil is still brown, I'll be draining it again soon. I'm afraid to flush it. I've changed the engine oil and filter twice and flushed it once in less than 200 miles. I'll be flushing it again soon with Amsoil Flush. The rear diff was ruined by moister and lack of oil due to ignored leaking axle seals. I had to replace it. It's amazing to me that it runs/drives as well as it does. To follow this saga see my thread "New Toy" in the Sport Trac sub forum.

I have a 5 gallon can in my garage that I use to drain oil filters when I change them. From just sitting for years with dirty oil in it, it's developed quite a thick layer of sludge in the bottom.

 

[sehaare]

Ok gave this a try today and it ain't a gonna happen.

first let me correct something that posted earlier that was wrong. The T hoses are at the top of the PCV valve and are not a problem getting those off. The big end of the PCV Valve is inserted into a single larger hose that has a clamp on it to secure it to the valve.

That clamp is not needed, for mine the bottom of the PCV valve is stuck to the inside of the hose it sits in. I tried to force the hose off first with my thumb nail working around it then I tried a long reach screw driver - that's when I drew blood from the hand that was holding the valve. You cant get to the hose to keep it from twisting when you are trying to get the PCV valve to move.

So at this point I am much more likely to damage the large hose than to get the PCV Valve free. I can hear the check valve rattle inside but tomorrow I'm going to give it a few shots of carb cleaner just to be sure.

 

[sehaare]

cooler heads now prevailing (with a bandage over the gouged finger). I'm now thinking about taking off the upper inlet manifold to get to the PCV. Doesn't look to be that tough and I don't think that there is any gasket between the upper and lower intake that I need to replace. So it should only cost me my time to try.

And before I started any of this I checked with the dealers parts guy and all three hosed are sold together for $80 but at least the are available.

 

[sehaare]

To close this one out. I pulled the upper intake manifold. I had found out before I pulled it that there was a rubber gasket so I got a replacement for about $10. Once I had the upper intake manifold out I had great access to the PCV Valve and had it replaced in 5 minutes.

I'll do it the same way next time.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

From what I've always known is if the PCV rattles and isn't stuck, there's no reason to replace it. I usually spray some carb or brake cleaner in it when I have it off and just throw it back in. Never had an issue.

 

[intelisevil]

Ok gave this a try today and it ain't a gonna happen.

first let me correct something that posted earlier that was wrong. The T hoses are at the top of the PCV valve and are not a problem getting those off. The big end of the PCV Valve is inserted into a single larger hose that has a clamp on it to secure it to the valve.

That clamp is not needed, for mine the bottom of the PCV valve is stuck to the inside of the hose it sits in. I tried to force the hose off first with my thumb nail working around it then I tried a long reach screw driver - that's when I drew blood from the hand that was holding the valve. You cant get to the hose to keep it from twisting when you are trying to get the PCV valve to move.

So at this point I am much more likely to damage the large hose than to get the PCV Valve free. I can hear the check valve rattle inside but tomorrow I'm going to give it a few shots of carb cleaner just to be sure.

When I did mine, I was able to loosen that odd clamp by sticking a long straight blade screwdriver from the top. Working from the passenger side, I was able to wiggle my left hand in well enough to hold the bottom hose and then used a tool (like the one below this paragraph) to grasp the PCV valve and twist it.

http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-31175-.../B0009W6THM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1443764352

 

[2000Xplor3r]

i cant seem to find my pcv valve, i see the tube from each side to the T split right next to the thermostats housing under the throttle body right in the back, i have the 2000 4.0 v6 sohc.. i see the rubber hoses and the the hose that goes down from the T top of the hose goes behind the pulleys and dissapears behind the engine covers... does it wrap under and to the back of the engine ive yet to fully make a find on the pcv, i use alldata and shopkey and theyre is no diagram to the replacement... i dont wanna start a new thread so i dont wanna steal this but im curious as #### to change this cheap part

 

[sehaare]

i cant seem to find my pcv valve, i see the tube from each side to the T split right next to the thermostats housing under the throttle body right in the back, i have the 2000 4.0 v6 sohc.. i see the rubber hoses and the the hose that goes down from the T top of the hose goes behind the pulleys and dissapears behind the engine covers... does it wrap under and to the back of the engine ive yet to fully make a find on the pcv, i use alldata and shopkey and theyre is no diagram to the replacement... i dont wanna start a new thread so i dont wanna steal this but im curious as #### to change this cheap part

Your looking in the wrong place. Start on the passenger side at the back of the intake manifold and you will see a vacuum hose that go towards the firewall.

If you follow it back you will see this from the passenger side.

On mine you can see that the top t-hose is alread loose. The bottom of the PCV is a PITA to get out of the rubber hose it sits in. that's why I had to pull the intake manifold.