OBX Exhaust Header Manifold FITS 97 98 99 00 01 Explorer Mountaineer 5.0L V8 | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums

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OBX Exhaust Header Manifold FITS 97 98 99 00 01 Explorer Mountaineer 5.0L V8

So, it seems ive still got the same ticking noise as before but it just sounds different now because of the new headers.

And its only apparent when the engines under load, soon as you lift off the gas it stops.

Also, is it normal to have it at 3K RPM's sometimes during normal driving if I take off a bit quick?

Just trying to figure out what the hell is going on with this thing, The noise is certainly coming from the driver's side of the engine.

Any ideas?
 



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It sometimes takes a few attempts to seal all the exhaust leaks. A tick under load is normally this,

Sometimes a rod bearing will knock under load making a tick sound, however, since you recently had the headers replaced, you should take it back to have them re check the seal.

What I would do at this point is have someone rev the engine a bit while you work under the hood, looking for the exhaust leak. You will be able to feel air moveing out of a leak. Pay attention to the #5 tube joint under the power steering, and the down pipe joint. Once you identify where the leak is, you will have ammo to go back to have it fixed.
 






Got mine today. TOOK 6 DAYS.

I paid $399 + $55 shipping = $454

They are stainless steel and quite thick tubing too.

They are shiny and not scratched at all.

They have a name plate spot welded to them that says OBX R racing that is tastefully styled and engraved.

The driver side is two piece. They give you 2 gaskets (not sure why) and 2 stainless screws for this.

The EGR tube is a work of art. It has a nipple adapter for the manifold, that connect to the pipe with flange fittings on each end.

The insides of the collector ends are cleaned up nice.

They provide 8 individual graphite/metal exhaust manifold gaskets. Each pipe gets it's own gasket. They look like they are definitely high-performance.

Many of the pipes have been flattened in the bolt-area. It looks like attention was given to making sure there is enough room for hex-head bolts (but I'm using allen-heads)

I will post pictures later if anyone is interested. Tell me what you want to see.
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show them off
 






Subscribed.
 






So, it seems ive still got the same ticking noise as before but it just sounds different now because of the new headers.

And its only apparent when the engines under load, soon as you lift off the gas it stops.

Also, is it normal to have it at 3K RPM's sometimes during normal driving if I take off a bit quick?

Just trying to figure out what the hell is going on with this thing, The noise is certainly coming from the driver's side of the engine.

Any ideas?

I know you're having issues, but you can feel a difference with your "butt dyno"?
 






I know you're having issues, but you can feel a difference with your "butt dyno"?


Yeah it was obvious taking off from a stop that it had more torque.

Also, in my driveway I was never able to get the rear tires to break loose, now I can and I don't have to floor it either.

So it certainly benefitted, and I feel it pulls much better at 2k RPMs. I've seen less instances where I needed to go higher in the RPM band.

It threw a P0410 code today and I assume that has to do with the headers. So I ignored it and will continue doing so.
 


















I'm going to throw this out there again. I have TM headers for the 98+ on my 96 guys. They're tight near the plugs since the spark plugs are in a different location on the 96 and I had to weld the EGR port closed, but they fit. So I bet these will work on any 5.0 96-01 no problem.
 


















im on ebay looking them up i thought i will help you guys out who ever wants them
 






I'm going to throw this out there again. I have TM headers for the 98+ on my 96 guys. They're tight near the plugs since the spark plugs are in a different location on the 96 and I had to weld the EGR port closed, but they fit. So I bet these will work on any 5.0 96-01 no problem.

*this information is very helpful for me, going to attempt to throw a set on my '96 in the spring. Do you have any pictures, or a link to some so I can see the fitment?
 












I got a set of these recently, meant to post picture. Let's see how well this works.
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12032211_10100416959232845_4026042389069758159_n.jpg

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I thought I had posted them elsehwere but now I can't find them. I had taken a CRAP LOAD on my phone but I think I deleted them the other day. They're in storage for now but I can get them out if anybody needs certain angles of anything. I'm using them on an 01 P-head build for my 01 Edge.
 






So, it seems ive still got the same ticking noise as before but it just sounds different now because of the new headers.

And its only apparent when the engines under load, soon as you lift off the gas it stops.

Also, is it normal to have it at 3K RPM's sometimes during normal driving if I take off a bit quick?

Just trying to figure out what the hell is going on with this thing, The noise is certainly coming from the driver's side of the engine.

Any ideas?

Had any chance yet to check if there was any change in MPGs, whether it be good or bad?
 






Had any chance yet to check if there was any change in MPGs, whether it be good or bad?

I need to look into that, I will calculate the highway MPG's eventually.

I will say that before(stock) on a 200 mile round trip I got 15.9 MPG.
 






Dammit I want a set of these badly but I swore I am not spending anymore money on the Explorer unless its absolutely needed.
 



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*this information is very helpful for me, going to attempt to throw a set on my '96 in the spring. Do you have any pictures, or a link to some so I can see the fitment?

Not at the moment; they're all on my cell phone. But they should fit virtually the same as the P head version, just a little tight when you put spark plugs in and I think it was closer to the firewall on the passenger side, but they're in there and been there for 2k miles now without any serious clearance problems.

The only "problem" is that half time you remove the drivers side rear spark plug you're going to snap it. It's very very tight to the pipe and almost impossible to get the plug out without breaking the ceramic top off it. A very small price to pay to get these headers.


BTW here's a pic of my TM's... and my feet.

IMG_20141030_220114_zps918b067e.jpg
 






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