Running horrible need help

[Stick4503]

I have posted about the explorer already but may have led people in the wrong direction. I know that I am going to have to replace / rebuild the engine at some point soon but I can't figure this out. Please help.

2004 Explorer 4 door. 4.0 SOHC

Has / had a head gasket coolant leak into number 4 cylinder. Runs hot on interstate. Runs fine around town.

Use Blue Devil pour and go head gasket repair. Seemed to work. No coolant in cylinder and running smooth until back on interstate. Ran hot again.

Back at home attempted leak down test on # 4. Air in coolant.
Attempted same test on #5 . Piston must not have been full TDC, engine turned backwards, tried a couple more times same result. Engine turned backwards every time. Not a lot just like the piston was pushed to the bottom of its stroke, but in reverse.

Gave up and pulled water pump to make sure it was working and not causing overheating. Its fine. Put everything back together.

Put a stronger Blue Devil head gasket repair product in and cranked it up so it could do its thing. Vehicle runs like crap. Way worse than ever before.

Idles bad. Engine shakes, wont get up to speed. Acts like it cant breath or something. If i just barely block the air intake in the air box, with two fingers, the engine dies.

So question is. Vehicle ran fine into the garage and now wont run well at all. Any ideas. I have checked everything I can think of. Nothing left loose.

This is our primary vehicle. I need to be able to get around town or at least be able to get it to a shop.

 

[2000StreetRod]

clean the CKP sensor connector contacts?

. . . You might try disconnecting/reconnecting the CKP sensor connector a few times to clean the contacts. . .

Did you try the above as I suggested?

 

[Stick4503]

I did try that, it did not seem to help. Also I had just put a new sensor on before finding the coolant leak. Connection looks clean and sensor is snug to engine. I have the old one I can try again as it turned out not to be the problem. Water from the pump removal would not have caused it to short I don't think.

 

[Stick4503]

I do have a noisy muffler that has just started also. It has a rust hole that just showed up the last couple weeks. Kind of a rattle type sound but because the engine is not smoothly running it is more noisy than normal.

No codes on scan also as of yet, but have only driven it a mile or so, mostly ran in the driveway.

 

[2000StreetRod]

check the ignition system

Confirm the spark plugs wires are correct paying special attention to the driver side wiring.

A lot of people incorrectly connect cylinders 5 and 6.

 

[Stick4503]

Unfortunately that is not it. Just checked, all is connected correctly.
I'm going to go pull each plug again and make sure of gap and no damage also check the wires.
I'll pull that sensor connection a few more times as well.

Want to say thank you to you. Over the years you and a few others have been a great help to me. Everyone has actually but there are a few on here that I really like when they respond.

 

[2000StreetRod]

use the scanner

With the engine off read the ECT & IAT to see if reasonable.
Read the commanded throttle actuator control from accelerator released to accelerator floored.
Start engine and let idle. Watch for stable engine rpm. That will let you know if the CKP sensor is working.
While engine warming up listen to each fuel injector for regular clicking sound. Using a flexible tube held near the injector at one end and your ear at the other end will help.
After engine has warmed up a little read ECT to see if still reasonable.
Read ignition timing advance.
Read MAF

 

[Stick4503]

From just now.
commanded throttle actuator = 9%
commanded throttle actuator Pedal to floor = 98.4%
ECT = 84.2 I have a large 500 watt shop light sitting over the engine at the moment
IAT = 77.0

From earlier at Idle as i have plugs and wires disabled and can't crank yet.
RMP 1240 RMP 720
SparkAdv 11.5 SparkAdv 25.5
ECT 75.2 ECT 84.2
IAT 66.2 IAT 68.0
MAF LB/S 0.02 MAF LB/S .001

At 40 MPH
ECT 165.2
SparkAdv 34.0
IAT 82.4
MAF LB/S 0.09

Will repeat all test and post when I get it cranked again.

 

[2000StreetRod]

data seems reasonable

The limited current data and the earlier data look reasonable although the MAF airflow at 720 rpm seems low. The fuel rail pressure is fine as are the fuel trims when the vehicle was moving. I assume the fuel in the tank is fresh since it is your daily driver. Check the connector to the camshaft position sensor. The PCM uses it to determine if a cylinder is on the compression or exhaust stroke. I suspect there is an ignition problem but I'm concerned about the compression. 130 psi is low even for a cold engine. Unfortunately, one of the valve covers must be removed to check the camshaft timing. It's probably best to wait on that until after the ignition has been tested. Some members have detected arcing by running the engine in the dark. If you have a timing light it should trigger and flash to let you know there is spark to the plug.

 

[Stick4503]

Does this look right

This should be TDC #1 Compression. Not sure the crank looks like it is right.

Passenger Side

Drivers Side

Crank

How it is, not me messing with anything. Please ignore the extra plug wire I was ruling out a back wire.

 

[2000StreetRod]

crankshaft position correct

The crankshaft position looks correct. The white paint highlights the TDC mark which appears to be aligned with the pointer. The driver side camshaft position sensor "nub" appears to be in the approximately correct position. Next you need to check the timing slots on both camshafts. It will be difficult to see the driver side slot because it is close to the firewall. Both camshafts slots should be below the axis of the camshaft (small arc at the bottom) and parallel to the head surface that mates with the valve cover.

Remember that for every degree the camshaft is off the crankshaft will be two degrees off.

 

[Stick4503]

Smaller half of cam looks to be down.

Drivers side. Second Allen is snug under first.

Passenger side. Second Allen is more loose but close.

Crank with reference tape

Thanks Again

 

[2000StreetRod]

camera angle?

The camera angle may be disguising the actual alignment of the pointer to the crankshaft. But for the latest photo the crankshaft looks at about 12 deg after TDC. I marked up the photo to explain.

I think I have the green line on the mark that represents TDC which is a couple degrees forward of the "0". I think I have the black line on the mark that represents 10 deg BTDC which is a couple degrees aft of "10". I think I have the red line aligned with the pointer but it is hard to tell with the camera angle. If my marks are correct then your crankshaft is about 12 degrees after TDC.

Edit: Sorry, I got you mixed up with someone else I was trying to help. Please ignore the next two sentences. In an earlier post you mentioned an Alldata timing reference. The timing reference was probably for ignition timing and not camshaft timing. The correct way to time the camshafts is to align the TDC mark with the pointer and then set the camshafts as I previously posted.

If you're lucky 12 deg ATDC is not enough to result in valve damage.

Edit: It appears that your timing has slipped. You need to determine if both cams are out of time or only one. Align the TDC mark with the pointer and then check the timing slots.

 

[Stick4503]

Thanks

Just an FYI, I have not loosened anything or done anything with the timing. I did have the engine turn in wrong direction during leak down test before poor idle and running began. This is a 2004 explorer but after I purchased it I discovered this was a transplant engine so I don't know what was done to it. The chains and guides look very good, so they may have been replaced by someone.

 

[2000StreetRod]

read the previous edit

I went back and read your other thread and realized I was confused. I edited my last post.

Anyway, the engine looks pretty good. I wish mine was that clean. The rear cassette guide appears to be in good condition. You can determine the year of the engine from the partial VIN stamped on the block at the rear just below the driver side head.

I don't know if you can see it with a mirror and a light with the engine in the vehicle.

Since your compression is low on both banks I'm guessing the front jackshaft sprocket has slipped. The primary chain (crankshaft sprocket to jackshaft sprocket) rarely slips even when the primary chain tensioner has failed.

If your engine is a 2002 or later you should have the improved primary chain tensioner shown on the left in the photo below.

 

[Stick4503]

Verifying exact TDC

How does one verify exact TDC on these engines with the head on and the timing cover on. I have read about using a piston stop but also that these engines should not be rotated backwards. Just want to check everything before i change any settings.

 

[2000StreetRod]

manometer

I made a simple manometer as a test and it was accurate to within a degree. See post 309 of the following thread: SOHC V6 Timing Chain Saga .

 

[Stick4503]

Wanted to say Thank You to 2000StreetRod and all the other members who have helped me out over the years.

I pulled the timing cover and adjusted the timing using allen wrenches and micrometer to measure as well as vise grips to hold everything in place. Was able to loosen only the front jack shaft bolt and make my needed adjustments. Everything is back together with new plugs and wires. She is running nicely now. All the pictures were a great help.

Also on a side note the Blue Devil product seems to have fixed by head gasket at least for now. May be worth a try to someone if your leak is small enough. We will see how long it last.

Thanks again