03 lincoln aviator

[jd4242]

Is this just removing the silencer cone from the inlet, or something else?

Congrats on getting it back together & on the way to a smoke free ride.

Here is a picture. .think i may have used 2" holes now i look at it again..lol

And here is a little video of a 20-70 pull.had windows up and AC on though. .lol little louder with them down and fast without AC obviously..

Needs more power and 3.73 gears bad!! Lol

 

[CDW6212R]

I'll have to learn what new products are available for break in these days. That zinc additive sounds like something good to use after the initial oil, which I think is still best to remove quickly. The oil filters do not remove all debris from oil, they let tiny stuff pass that is under 15 microns. The initial firing and 20 minutes creates a bunch of that, and you want to get that out quickly. I think for yours I'd change the oil now and use some more of that additive, until the 1000 mile mark or so.

 

[jd4242]

I'll have to learn what new products are available for break in these days. That zinc additive sounds like something good to use after the initial oil, which I think is still best to remove quickly. The oil filters do not remove all debris from oil, they let tiny stuff pass that is under 15 microns. The initial firing and 20 minutes creates a bunch of that, and you want to get that out quickly. I think for yours I'd change the oil now and use some more of that additive, until the 1000 mile mark or so.

I agree.i only did rings so there shouldn't be alot of debri or shaving from bearings or stuff like that.oil now of days even conventional oil doesnt contain alot of zinc or the stuff old school builds like to use.helps the bearings,cam and rings for break in.the additive adds all that stuff back into the oil you use

i have checked the cap,radiator and dipstick a couple times..water level looks good,haven't lost any.cap look clean and smells normal. .dipstick shows im getting low but the oil looks clean,like i just put it in..i only put 5qts in plus the additive. .i think this truck uses around 5.5-6qts honestly

Its getting low so ill change filter and oil here soon.ill get some cheap old conventional oil this time as the Castro is very expensive

 

[CDW6212R]

Do you get oil at Walmart? It's always the cheapest there, and sometimes Amazon because they change pricing constantly.

 

[jd4242]

Got it from advance auto..i order online and use a coupon and a 30% discount code

 

[CDW6212R]

There you go, discount codes. I like them but wow it takes a lot of time to find good ones.

I've checked for a discount code for CJC Offroad to buy a trans pan(they want $315 for the polished one I want). I'm not paying that much for one that still needs coating to protect bare aluminum.

 

[jd4242]

There you go, discount codes. I like them but wow it takes a lot of time to find good ones.

I've checked for a discount code for CJC Offroad to buy a trans pan(they want $315 for the polished one I want). I'm not paying that much for one that still needs coating to protect bare aluminum.

TRT20 or TRT30 normally always works for 20% or 30% off and if you have speed perks you get $5 off $20+ and or $20 off $50+..you can use both codes at same time..

Speaking of pans id love to get a deep one with a dipstick..im about to do solenoids and a shift kit here probably next weekend..i already did servos

 

[CDW6212R]

Exactly what I'm after. I have the unpolished deep one for now, but I'd like the polished one for later on if I can get a better price. Somehow I got the shallow polished one(for my Mark VII) for under $250 years ago. I think prices have gone up again.

Thanks for the tip about Advance auto, I've bought my last two batteries from them.

 

[jd4242]

Exactly what I'm after. I have the unpolished deep one for now, but I'd like the polished one for later on if I can get a better price. Somehow I got the shallow polished one(for my Mark VII) for under $250 years ago. I think prices have gone up again.

Thanks for the tip about Advance auto, I've bought my last two batteries from them.

Didnt some explorers come with a pan that had a dipstick? ? Maybe the 5r55w?

Does yours have a dipstick?? Id maybe be interested in buying that one from you to help pay for your polished pan?

I hear once you put shift kits in and up the power you can suck the pan dry,thats why a deep pan helps plus holds more fluid so temps stay more stable. .

 

[CDW6212R]

Sorry, mine are the 4R70W for the SBF's. I think you've got a 5R55W or similar, and there's no dipstick at all. They have a weird plug in the bottom which will allow you to drain off excess(over full) amounts. I think you've got a fill plug part way up the case to add fluid in them. You can help cooling more with a bigger extra trans cooler. Adding an external filter can add capacity too.

I think you'll be fine unless you add a blower like the DOHC Mustangs, or retrofit one like John did with his 04 Explorer. I wanted to do that with an Aviator when they first came out. It hurts that they quit making them, that's my favorite SUV.

 

[jd4242]

Sorry, mine are the 4R70W for the SBF's. I think you've got a 5R55W or similar, and there's no dipstick at all. They have a weird plug in the bottom which will allow you to drain off excess(over full) amounts. I think you've got a fill plug part way up the case to add fluid in them. You can help cooling more with a bigger extra trans cooler. Adding an external filter can add capacity too.

I think you'll be fine unless you add a blower like the DOHC Mustangs, or retrofit one like John did with his 04 Explorer. I wanted to do that with an Aviator when they first came out. It hurts that they quit making them, that's my favorite SUV.

Yea i have the 5r55s. .

And yes i plan on putting the cobra supercharger setup on it some day..also have been looking more and more at rear/mid mount turbos..like where the BIG cat is.on ewould fit there real nice and im only 2wd so plenty of room

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent. Those are already great trucks, more power will just be a blast. It will need better cooling for the trans though, keep the temps down to save the trans.

 

[Joe in NY]

That was pretty good being 3.55 rear end.

Also, you only did the new rings right? Not a new cam and bearings, etc... So really you should have minimal break in debris I imagine. I have heard from engine builders you want extra zinc on the initial break in especially for new cams. High zinc in oil can make or break a break in from what I have heard and read.

Jasper says run conventional for 500 miles then change out. Kia (with their 10yr/100k warranty) does a first 1,000 miles change then synthetic.

We ourselves ran 3 conventional changes in a new Kia before going Mobil 1. Same for new engine in our 2007 Suburban. Good filter, conventional oil, run it 3,000 miles, repeat 3 times, then Mobil 1.

Is the smoke becoming less and less?

 

[jd4242]

That was pretty good being 3.55 rear end.

Also, you only did the new rings right? Not a new cam and bearings, etc... So really you should have minimal break in debris I imagine. I have heard from engine builders you want extra zinc on the initial break in especially for new cams. High zinc in oil can make or break a break in from what I have heard and read.

Jasper says run conventional for 500 miles then change out. Kia (with their 10yr/100k warranty) does a first 1,000 miles change then synthetic.

We ourselves ran 3 conventional changes in a new Kia before going Mobil 1. Same for new engine in our 2007 Suburban. Good filter, conventional oil, run it 3,000 miles, repeat 3 times, then Mobil 1.

Is the smoke becoming less and less?

Yes just new rings this time..the heads are brand new though, they got new exhaust seats,MMR race valves,bronze guides, seals and decked.

That pull was kind of slow,had AC on plus it wasnt 100% warmed up..

The smoke is ""thinner"" than before the build but the amount is slightly less..its becoming less frequent also..but almost always after sitting over night or cooling fully down,it will smoke at start up.

Out of the 5 times i started it today it didnt smoke only once

 

[jd4242]

Changed the oil today..looked fine to me..i put regular oil back in it.i did pull the oil cap after some hard pulls and some ""smoke/steam"" appeared to come out so thinking im still getting some blow bye and rings arnt seated yet,i know some is normal but appeared to be more than whats considered normal..

This also leads me to my next theory. .i replaced the pcv valve when i did heads because it sounded like it was clicking open and close wile at idle...i have a very strange feeling the one i replaced it with is bad and is stuck open...the tube and intake appeared to be very dry last time i pulled it off to do rings but it may not have had time for the vapors to build up..

With me not getting smoke consistently im thinking its sticking open 99% of the time..if the rings havent seated then i should get smoke all the time till they seat and then it should stop for good..not stop for 1 or 2 times then smoke again..

I feel the rings haven't seated yet but the pcv is making it smoke 75% worse then it should..im not 100% on how the pvc system works though. .i think im going to look into a oil separator here very soon..i have one that was going to use on my new 4.0 build but the lines on the 4.6 are about double the size of the 4.0 so need to figure that out...

JLT my local shop sells a kit thats a direct fit for these motors but are PRICEY!!

 

[Joe in NY]

PCV:

Pulls a slight vacuum on the crank case to help keep vapors from building up inside the crankcase. A closed PCV allows pressure to build up inside the crankcase which forces oil into the cylinder and causes extremely high oil consumption. A proper PCV helps to to draw oil out of the rings to prevent oil buildup in the cylinder.

So a stuck open PCV is better than one stuck closed.

 

[jd4242]

PCV:

Pulls a slight vacuum on the crank case to help keep vapors from building up inside the crankcase. A closed PCV allows pressure to build up inside the crankcase which forces oil into the cylinder and causes extremely high oil consumption. A proper PCV helps to to draw oil out of the rings to prevent oil buildup in the cylinder.

So a stuck open PCV is better than one stuck closed.

Hmm well i may have it backwards to which way its stuck if its stuck..

If stuck closed i doubt its causing pressure build up at start up to point of smoking..and also it tends to not smoke after warm and restarted or driving..when pressure would have been built up..

Im thinking its stuck open and sucking up oil all the time ..just dont notice it when its hot and driving

Is this a heated pcv valve?? Is that what i thought i read that the 2 wires going to it is?? Is it always heated??

I assume like traditional pcv it only opens when there is vacuum? ? Closes at wot or low vacuum (ie start up) basically only open when idle or cruising? ?

Is there a way to test it other than getting another new one?? I threw the old one away

Again this is all shot in dark as i still think my rings haven't seated but could be adding extra smoke to situation

 

[Joe in NY]

Heated PCV ?

You may have an electronic PCV that varies via the ECU

 

[jd4242]

Heated PCV ?

You may have an electronic PCV that varies via the ECU

Yea it has 2 wires going to it,the passengers side valve cover..i swear i read its a heated pcv..not 100% though, about to google

 

[jd4242]

Heated PCV ?

You may have an electronic PCV that varies via the ECU

Yep says its heated..so does google..

Its heated when ambient temps are below 32* to keep moisture from freezing in the valve or tube..