ESGWheel
Active Member
- Joined
- December 25, 2015
- Messages
- 53
- Reaction score
- 6
- City, State
- Rutland, MA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2010 Explorer
Update on Lessons Learned abt Rear Cameras and Costs
So all the bits and pcs have arrived and now a matter of putting it all together.
With the OEM route for the Nav unit discussion made, time for rear camera decision. And oh boy, what a lot of choices
What I have learned so far about the camera along with the bottom line on costs.
The F150 Rear Camera Ford emblem will not work on an Explorer. While maybe obvious to a number of folks, it looked close in size to warrant checking out. If it did fit I was willing to spring for the extra cash to have a nice clean OEM type of install. But alas, it is too big.
There really is not a convent spot to mount the rear camera on the 2010 due in large part to the tailgate release handle being in the middle. This left a license plate type. While I was considering the Barcam 221 it is large and will cover my yearly registration sticker. It is also expensive for a “CMD” type sensor. CMD? There are 2 types of sensors: CCD and CMOS of which CCD is the preferred way to go. So CMD was new to me but in what I read seems to simply be a ‘better’ CMOS but still not as good for low light and clarity as a CCD. So I opted for a less expensive License Plate Holder style that while still a CMD sensor had some of the same features as the Barcam including the marker lines but at half the cost.
About camera power and lighting. A lot of cameras have lights to assist in seeing in dark / low light conditions. This I assume is primarily due to the CMOS / CMD type of sensor that is not as good in low light as a CCD, so add lighting. There are 2 type of lights offered: Infrared and Visible (white) light. And some reviews of IR style said not IR but White. Since I was going with the CANOpener that has the ’Camera on Demand’ feature, I was concerned about lighting. For example I did not want a ‘bright light’ coming from my arse end when traveling down the interstate if I toggled on the camera. And regarding powering the device: all the instructions and forums have you power the camera to the Reverse Lights. Makes total sense if you are only using the camera when in reverse. But with the CANOpener you can toggle on the camera, reverse gear or not, idea being as you are backing up to a hitch a trailer, can have the camera view even while pulling slightly forward. Convenient. So that left me with exploring a power source that would ‘toggle’ when the camera is called upon. Some follow up discussions with the folks that make the CANOpener provided there was not a ‘here is 12V power only when the camera is called for.’ They also provided OEMs power their cameras whenever the ignition is on -> so always on while driving around, regardless of reverse. Hmmm… some folks I have read about go to the trouble of having a separate switch to power on their camera to use when not in reverse with the idea being “it saves the camera” as in if always powered on "it will not last long." So that left me with (1) powering the camera as always on with the ignition (2) no lighting and (3) using a less expensive camera in case the ‘ignition on’ power really does significantly shorten its life.
About running power to the camera. Since I needed to tap into a ignition switched power source, it seems like this would be much easier up front under the dash. While switched power is available in the 7 Pin trailer wiring harness, I would have to run wires not only forward (for video) but also who knows where to get to the 7 Pin harness. Since I was running a cable forward anyway, would be nice to run the power wire with it as well. Turns out they make RCA video cables with an embedded ‘trigger’ or power wire! So in addition to the RCA Male to RCA Male cable there is an additional red power wire embedded in its length that has a pigtail on either end. Way cool. This red trigger wire is normally used to run power from the rear reverse lights to the front to power up the video display or provide a trigger to the device that you are in reverse. But since I am going OEM there already is a trigger, so to speak, to turn on the video display when I am in reverse. So I will use this cable in reverse : of what is normally done and have switched +12V from the front to the rear. Thus I have to contend with running only one cable.
My initial budget was $1,000 because this was about the cost of a good Aftermarket (and built in) Unit with Rear Camera. And my estimate for going OEM was $1,175. I was willing to for this slightly higher amount to have real knobs, etc. as explained above in this post.
The bottom line so far. The rest will be my BS&T, but for me this is fun part.
Cost<>What<>From
$379.95<>Used OEM HDD Type Nav Unit<>eBay seller: ebei2429
$24.49<>1 Year Warranty<>eBay seller: assurant_protection_plans
$117.19<>Programing the Nav unit to VIN<>NavRepair.com
$359.95<>Brick Unit<>OEM Auto Parts Co
$249.99<>CANOpener<>4D Tech
$34.98<>Video Plug<>4D Tech
$29.99<>Rear View Camera: Pyle PLCM19<>eBay seller: Dealsbuy2015
$8.69<>20Ft Video Cable with trigger wire<>eBay seller: ryanhemat
$16.00<>OEM Owner's Manual for Navigation<>eBay seller: mikethecargod
Total of $1,221.23 and included any discount, shipping and taxes if any. Most items were void of tax and were free shipping.
What else I learned. The folks at these ‘retailers’ are great! I had more than one live or email conversional with most of them. They were helpful, courteous and offered assistance and advice and answered all my annoying questions
More to follow when installed.....
So all the bits and pcs have arrived and now a matter of putting it all together.
With the OEM route for the Nav unit discussion made, time for rear camera decision. And oh boy, what a lot of choices
What I have learned so far about the camera along with the bottom line on costs.
The F150 Rear Camera Ford emblem will not work on an Explorer. While maybe obvious to a number of folks, it looked close in size to warrant checking out. If it did fit I was willing to spring for the extra cash to have a nice clean OEM type of install. But alas, it is too big.
There really is not a convent spot to mount the rear camera on the 2010 due in large part to the tailgate release handle being in the middle. This left a license plate type. While I was considering the Barcam 221 it is large and will cover my yearly registration sticker. It is also expensive for a “CMD” type sensor. CMD? There are 2 types of sensors: CCD and CMOS of which CCD is the preferred way to go. So CMD was new to me but in what I read seems to simply be a ‘better’ CMOS but still not as good for low light and clarity as a CCD. So I opted for a less expensive License Plate Holder style that while still a CMD sensor had some of the same features as the Barcam including the marker lines but at half the cost.
About camera power and lighting. A lot of cameras have lights to assist in seeing in dark / low light conditions. This I assume is primarily due to the CMOS / CMD type of sensor that is not as good in low light as a CCD, so add lighting. There are 2 type of lights offered: Infrared and Visible (white) light. And some reviews of IR style said not IR but White. Since I was going with the CANOpener that has the ’Camera on Demand’ feature, I was concerned about lighting. For example I did not want a ‘bright light’ coming from my arse end when traveling down the interstate if I toggled on the camera. And regarding powering the device: all the instructions and forums have you power the camera to the Reverse Lights. Makes total sense if you are only using the camera when in reverse. But with the CANOpener you can toggle on the camera, reverse gear or not, idea being as you are backing up to a hitch a trailer, can have the camera view even while pulling slightly forward. Convenient. So that left me with exploring a power source that would ‘toggle’ when the camera is called upon. Some follow up discussions with the folks that make the CANOpener provided there was not a ‘here is 12V power only when the camera is called for.’ They also provided OEMs power their cameras whenever the ignition is on -> so always on while driving around, regardless of reverse. Hmmm… some folks I have read about go to the trouble of having a separate switch to power on their camera to use when not in reverse with the idea being “it saves the camera” as in if always powered on "it will not last long." So that left me with (1) powering the camera as always on with the ignition (2) no lighting and (3) using a less expensive camera in case the ‘ignition on’ power really does significantly shorten its life.
About running power to the camera. Since I needed to tap into a ignition switched power source, it seems like this would be much easier up front under the dash. While switched power is available in the 7 Pin trailer wiring harness, I would have to run wires not only forward (for video) but also who knows where to get to the 7 Pin harness. Since I was running a cable forward anyway, would be nice to run the power wire with it as well. Turns out they make RCA video cables with an embedded ‘trigger’ or power wire! So in addition to the RCA Male to RCA Male cable there is an additional red power wire embedded in its length that has a pigtail on either end. Way cool. This red trigger wire is normally used to run power from the rear reverse lights to the front to power up the video display or provide a trigger to the device that you are in reverse. But since I am going OEM there already is a trigger, so to speak, to turn on the video display when I am in reverse. So I will use this cable in reverse : of what is normally done and have switched +12V from the front to the rear. Thus I have to contend with running only one cable.
My initial budget was $1,000 because this was about the cost of a good Aftermarket (and built in) Unit with Rear Camera. And my estimate for going OEM was $1,175. I was willing to for this slightly higher amount to have real knobs, etc. as explained above in this post.
The bottom line so far. The rest will be my BS&T, but for me this is fun part.
Cost<>What<>From
$379.95<>Used OEM HDD Type Nav Unit<>eBay seller: ebei2429
$24.49<>1 Year Warranty<>eBay seller: assurant_protection_plans
$117.19<>Programing the Nav unit to VIN<>NavRepair.com
$359.95<>Brick Unit<>OEM Auto Parts Co
$249.99<>CANOpener<>4D Tech
$34.98<>Video Plug<>4D Tech
$29.99<>Rear View Camera: Pyle PLCM19<>eBay seller: Dealsbuy2015
$8.69<>20Ft Video Cable with trigger wire<>eBay seller: ryanhemat
$16.00<>OEM Owner's Manual for Navigation<>eBay seller: mikethecargod
Total of $1,221.23 and included any discount, shipping and taxes if any. Most items were void of tax and were free shipping.
What else I learned. The folks at these ‘retailers’ are great! I had more than one live or email conversional with most of them. They were helpful, courteous and offered assistance and advice and answered all my annoying questions
More to follow when installed.....