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Repair or cash it in??

Let's see what we missed out on buying today.

2001 Mountaineer 5.0L AWD 143,000 Miles. $3000 in Phoenix

2001 Mercury Mountaineer AWD FREE CARFAX ON EVERY VEHICLE!

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2001 Mountaineer AWD v8 177,000 miles $2250 or Best

2001 mercury mountaineer 4x4 V8
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2000 Explorer 5.0L AWD 138,000 miles $2000
2000 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 SUV

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2000 Explorer 5.0l AWD 161,000 miles $2450
2000 FORD EXPLORER SUV, EDDIE BAUER, 4 DOOR, 4WD, WHITE, RUNS GREAT
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2000 Explorer AWD V8 121,000 miles $2,500
2000 Ford Explorer XLT $2,499.00 A&D Premier Auto

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2001 mountaineer SUV
2001 Ford Explorer 5.0 AWD
 



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There's one here like that first one, frame is kinked on the left rear though, I've been tempted to buy it at $500 but IDK how you'd fix it, I have a good frame but pulling the body back right is a whole new thing.
 






There's one here like that first one, frame is kinked on the left rear though, I've been tempted to buy it at $500 but IDK how you'd fix it, I have a good frame but pulling the body back right is a whole new thing.

It would have to be a very special truck for me to go through that. I noticed a new crack on the centaurus' rear bumper cover the other day and just that made me feel like tearing all the new parts off, scrapping the rig and flying to Cali to bring something newer and nicer home. It's a good thing I'm lazy.
 






Find something down here for a coworker of mine. A sub(RCA) here lost his Jeep Wrangler on the job a couple of weeks ago, in the snow. He rolled it off the road gently, and it caught fire, burning the truck, mail, and the scanner to ashes. He's tall, about 6'4", and like all lately, doesn't want to drive a LHD vehicle(they all pay $1000ish to convert one to RHD). I think if he could find a 98-01 Explorer like mine, he could learn to drive it as it is.
 






It's got 200K miles, it's a stock V8 Mountaineer with the tan trim, and tan interior with moon roof. Only method I came up with if I was gonna tackle that would be pull the frame underneath it sorta right, as right as it could be made again with the theory it'll bring the body with it (unlikely, photo shows damage, which is major) and then swap frames, but before I'd do that I'd just assume spend the effort in perfecting my white car I already have. Here's the car, and yes the link is 100% safe. Gyazo - adecc9905c0686288a8fce8d216fce73.jpg
 






It's got 200K miles, it's a stock V8 Mountaineer with the tan trim, and tan interior with moon roof. Only method I came up with if I was gonna tackle that would be pull the frame underneath it sorta right, as right as it could be made again with the theory it'll bring the body with it (unlikely, photo shows damage, which is major) and then swap frames, but before I'd do that I'd just assume spend the effort in perfecting my white car I already have. Here's the car, and yes the link is 100% safe. Gyazo - adecc9905c0686288a8fce8d216fce73.jpg

Looks pretty clean!
 












It's got 200K miles, it's a stock V8 Mountaineer with the tan trim, and tan interior with moon roof. Only method I came up with if I was gonna tackle that would be pull the frame underneath it sorta right, as right as it could be made again with the theory it'll bring the body with it (unlikely, photo shows damage, which is major) and then swap frames, but before I'd do that I'd just assume spend the effort in perfecting my white car I already have. Here's the car, and yes the link is 100% safe. Gyazo - adecc9905c0686288a8fce8d216fce73.jpg
That's a tough repair and the cost would be high for anyone but an owner of a frame machine. The frame would need to be pulled straight, and then the body would be pulled a little to help with that corner. But then the quarter panel would be cut off and a new one welded in. I had to go through the R&R of my 93's quarter panel in 2000, there are a ton of rivets to drill through back there.

The frame makes that hard to get right to drive, cheaply. A hatch won't fit worth a crap unless the quarter panel is fixed very well. I'd pass on that unless parts were worth the price.
 






Talk about a bad day!

I got off my route about ten minutes before he got back with the wrecker. The supervisors didn't go out to the scene, and asked him why he didn't save the scanner(I heard that 2nd hand). He was pale and "dazed" still, a nice young man not long ago right out of the Army.
 






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Not worth the money to save that one. Repainting the qtr alone would probably cost $1000 at body shop. A good parts truck maybe.
 






Yeah, I offered the woman $200, she was dead set at $675, or $600 depending on the PM, then I went to $300 and she still was adamant so I passed, the listing is two weeks old now so maybe she scammed someone as that being "Easy, needs a hatch and tail light, plus it doesn't have brakes, just the pads though". I wanted the motor from it mostly and driveshafts for the AWD, plus tires and wheels and whatever else I could scrounge up and then park it, and just a general parts truck, but darn, I can get one out the junkyard that's not a wreck that's blown or a bad trans for $300 if I catch it before the crusher.
 






Yeah, Phoenix is pry rust free, but all the rubber gaskets might be questionable.

When I lived in PHX, my g/f had a 97 Pontiac Sunfire. Her parents bought an aftermarket extended warranty at some point. Granted, we only paid the deductible on the warranty each time, but I think we had over at least $3500 in service within the 2.5 years there. I didn't have that much, even close, in service in my Paseo, which was 5 years older...
 












Hey guys how much would a 98 SOHC motor with under 50k miles run for ya think?
 






I've got a spare one sitting I traded for, with 135K miles, wouldn't take a hair under $600 for it, if that helps.
 






Hey guys how much would a 98 SOHC motor with under 50k miles run for ya think?
IMO, no SOHC 4.0 is worth much unless the valvetrain has been recently serviced. The age of the tensioners and cassettes determines their worth, and whether the engine has rattled before, from those worn out parts. 50k miles is about 25k miles from needing to be done, so quote the cost to do the valvetrain, to the buyer.
 






IMO, no SOHC 4.0 is worth much unless the valvetrain has been recently serviced. The age of the tensioners and cassettes determines their worth, and whether the engine has rattled before, from those worn out parts. 50k miles is about 25k miles from needing to be done, so quote the cost to do the valvetrain, to the buyer.

Well even so, buying a low mile unit from a older vehicle, buying the parts and tools and doing the service, last I checked was cheaper than buying a newer engine that could also fail, at least using an older one with new guides and chains you stand a longer chance of being okay.
 






Well even so, buying a low mile unit from a older vehicle, buying the parts and tools and doing the service, last I checked was cheaper than buying a newer engine that could also fail, at least using an older one with new guides and chains you stand a longer chance of being okay.

Yes, for sure, but most people still see the 4.0 SOHC as any engine, good for 150k without major servicing. They will buy the low mileage engine, and stick it in, without doing anything to it first. That's what we are trying to tell people, to not do.
 






Oh I believe it, I wouldn't stick in that SOHC without new guides and chains, especially after sitting who knows how long, at 135K it's been a nice minute, I had one at 102K but sold it, got an offer I wouldn't turn down, since I was messing with SOHC trucks and thinking about replacing the Eddie Bauer's before I got the idea of a V8 swap.
 



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My 99 that I'm about to do the valvetrain again, I hope to swap out before it goes another 10k miles. That and the rebuilt 5R55E should be desirable to someone nearby. This SOHC has never rattled while I've owned it, and it hasn't use any noticeable amount of oil. A well kept vehicle is hard to find, buying a used engine is a huge risk.
 






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