Tearing engine down--found 1-3-5 fuel of fuel | Ford Explorer Forums

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Tearing engine down--found 1-3-5 fuel of fuel

RustyMacintosh

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 5, 2018
Messages
190
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50
City, State
Monterey
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT 4x4 Exploder
Kids at the shop tearing down my 01 XLS which the chains are all making big-time noise...(1 step away from fatal).

Intake removed, they found 1-3-5 cylinders full of fuel. 2-4-6 was ok.

Weird ey? Haven't talked to the owner of the shop to get his take. I can see 1 injector hanging open but a complete bank?

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I see the problem, those welds are very porous!
 






It's terrifying to think that that vehicle might have been being driven on public roads. It's not even a decent trail fix! Looks like something the "Mad Russian" would do.
 












What do 1, 3, and 5 share? I'm assuming they're not on a single coil pack or anything quite that obvious, right?

Also - how did they identify the numbers as 1,3,5, e.g. is that the correct numbering per Ford's standards, or did they mean all the cylinders on one side?
 






What do 1, 3, and 5 share? I'm assuming they're not on a single coil pack or anything quite that obvious, right?

Also - how did they identify the numbers as 1,3,5, e.g. is that the correct numbering per Ford's standards, or did they mean all the cylinders on one side?

Front to back, cylinders 123 are on the passenger side and 456 are on the driver's side as per Ford's way of doing things. 1, 3 and 5 share nothing except air.
 






I'm aware of that, what I'm trying to clarify is whether the numbers are correct. Not every brand labels them like ford, and we're assuming those are the right numbers. If somebody identified them based on chevrolet standards for example, they meant the cylinders on the drivers side.
 






I'm aware of that, what I'm trying to clarify is whether the numbers are correct. Not every brand labels them like ford, and we're assuming those are the right numbers. If somebody identified them based on chevrolet standards for example, they meant the cylinders on the drivers side.

That's a question you'd have to ask your mechanic. If in fact you had cylinders "full" of fuel (however it got there) and someone hit the starter you may now have bent rods from hydro-locking.

Even assuming that the cylinders were all on one bank they don't share coils or fuel injectors. Makes me wonder if all the cylinders are on the same bank and someone tried to repeatedly start an engine with a broken timing chain, pumping in fuel with no compression due to open/bent valves.
 






I'm not the OP, so why would I ask my mechanic?

They don't share injectors, but (as one example) it's entirely possible that the power wire for the injectors branches off at the same point for each bank. That wire is shared, then each injector is controlled on the ground side by the ECU. My point is that confirming which cylinders are actually affected may be relevant to diagnosing the problem.
 






Fine - Rusty should ask his "mechanic" if he's the OP.
 












What do 1, 3, and 5 share? I'm assuming they're not on a single coil pack or anything quite that obvious, right?

Also - how did they identify the numbers as 1,3,5, e.g. is that the correct numbering per Ford's standards, or did they mean all the cylinders on one side?
all the bank on the passenger side of the engine was full of fuel when the intake was removed, but drivers were not. This engine is within 10,000 RPM's of DOA. The chains...well, lets just say they sound like the motor has no oil pressure.

It is out of the XLS as of an hour ago, I am heading down to the shop to see the front cover as it was removed. I wanna see this for myself, and get pictures.
 






Mechanic is probably thinking the engine goes "left right left right" front to back, front right being one, middle right being 3, and rear right being 5 in his eyes. Fords are bank one on the right, front to back 1-2-3-4. Bank 2 is drivers side.
 






Fuel regulator was apparently bad, the engine is out of the SUV, with broken chain guides. We are waiting on the 4th now replacement motor from LKQ. They promise! Double cross-your-heart-hope-not-to-get-sued- that this motor has only 88k on it, and it useable.

I told LKQ one more delivered core, we begin legal proceedings. I am out 3 installs--In-and-out- @ 8 hours each because the junk they shipped me.

\Below are 4 pictures. .

The yellowish picture is rust. That is the jug that has zero-0 compression. The other picture is #5. Clean shiny valve. I know they are blurry, just a peek pic to send to LKQ Corporate Office, who btw, back peddled like big-time. The stammering on the phone was actually somewhat entertaining. SINCE...the text message assuring me from a 'supervisor' that this engine was the best engine they had on the shelf?

Can we say CORE?

Pix 3-4 are the broken guide and front of the 4.0. Today the chains are removed.

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Did they say how the coolant got into the oil?
 






I've only had one experience buying a used drive-train part through a parts finder. It was a total and complete disaster. The part they sent me was a total piece of garbage (and I didn't even have to take it apart to see it was completely useless). Then they expected me to pay the return shipping (IIRC $150) before they'd send me a replacement or refund my money. I told them that there was no way I'd pay the return shipping and that I wanted my money back. They said no, but I disputed the charge on my credit card and eventually they refunded the money and said I didn't need to return the useless part. I'll never do that again. Thank God that my credit card company took care of it.
 






My money is that engine was overheated, you got a core definitely, no possible way that engine ran good and passed any sort of inspection.
 






I've only had one experience buying a used drive-train part through a parts finder. It was a total and complete disaster. The part they sent me was a total piece of garbage (and I didn't even have to take it apart to see it was completely useless). Then they expected me to pay the return shipping (IIRC $150) before they'd send me a replacement or refund my money. I told them that there was no way I'd pay the return shipping and that I wanted my money back. They said no, but I disputed the charge on my credit card and eventually they refunded the money and said I didn't need to return the useless part. I'll never do that again. Thank God that my credit card company took care of it.


Using CC is the ONLY way to purchase. The card carrier has great leverage, business companies can be denied even the acceptance of a CC if they have too many chargebacks.
 






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