Stockish big balognas

[Scotts96sploder]

Hi there!
So I did a TT till it bottomed out, got 3 1/4” in the front (I know it will wear stuff out) and I’m going to order the Leaf spring kit for the rear. I like the squat so I’m only going about an inch or so in the rear. Also going to get some 10x15 procomp wheels with some backspacing.
Question: I have no issue cutting away fenders to jam 31-33” tires in there. Has anyone done that? How much cutting will I have to do? Any good solutions for the inner fender?
Pic: my sploder vs stock.

 

[Mbrooks420]

At full droop like you are it’s going to ride like garbage. I’d just get a spindle lift since you are 2wd.

Lots of people have clearanced the fenders. 31s fit most trucks stock, so there should be no need to cut anything. With 33s you will have issues with width more, I’d think.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Roger that, thanks! Mbrooks420
I like the way it rides like this actually, I’m accustomed to trucks and explorers ride like cars.

 

[J_C]

TLDR; Makes no sense.

If you want a car like ride you wouldn't be putting the oversized tires on which you've now reduced the chances of fitting, and it makes no sense to me since you've reduced your ground clearance so they have no use off-road, might as well get wheels larger than 15" if you're going this direction and get street tires.

BUT, you don't need to trim fenders or anything. You can just always drive straight so it will be even more car-like, or go for the gold and take the inner and outer fenders off. This latter option might also make it easier to see your suspension and tires wearing out.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

I thought about it lol
To answer you questions: it’s a 300 car that’s been wrecked 5 or 6 times. I’m just having fun with a limited budget.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’ve never been in ANY Explorer that had anything remotely like a car ride. They ride like bricks.

 

[CDW6212R]

You can always buy the fender flares from one of the three versions stock Explorers had. The widest were the full wrap around the back wheels type, and have tons of holes drilled in the body to hold them on. The other kind were on scarce lower level trim Explorers, and only use the normal fender screws to hold them on.

I don't recall if those were on the rear also, I only looked at them to get the front flares(for wider wheels I have to go on next). They typically came on models with either no running board at all, or just the step bar and not connected to the flares. Those are kind of hard to find unless you are looking for them a while.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

CDW6212R , thanks! I think I’ve seen those, I’ll take another look.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Well I found a spindle/spring kit that’s 4/2” for $350. So I think I’ll go that rout when I get a little expendable cash.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I think it’ll provide a lot better performance and be more reliable.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Speaking of how they ride. When I first got this it reminded me of a bobble head on wheels. That’s probably why I like the TT, it’s way stiffer. My front sway bar isn’t working rite now, one of the links is broken from a wreck, I’m assuming it will get even more stiff when I fix that?

 

[Mbrooks420]

It’ll help with side to side motion but won’t really make it stiffer. You probably need shocks.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

So now I’m getting a spindle lift and an entire front end kit from rock auto.
Anyone know if there is a difference between the one and two piece design for the upper control arm on the passenger side?
The kit comes with a one piece and there is a two piece on there now.

 

[CDW6212R]

The one piece right UCA works fine. The OEM two piece was assuming some trucks may have alignment issues to get enough caster. It was an assumption of poor manufacturing tolerances, which hasn't turned out to happen. Get the one piece UCA, you will be satisfied with it. Alignment shops often have a tough time getting enough camber, but never worry about caster.