Control arm bolt, 2000 explorer EB

[songboat]

Ok I have a new issue. I am replacing the upper ball joint on frnt drivers side. The bolt holding the rear of the control arm will not clear the frame. What do I do?

 

[swshawaii]

Hard line interference? If so, it's a well known issue that requires patience. Factory control arm bolts have cams welded to them making it even more difficult. Instead of cutting the bolt many succeed by unclipping the hard lines and pushing the upper control arm all the way inboard. If you're alone, using a light rope or strap to hold the UCA in will make the job easier. Three handed job with barely enough room for one person. Remember to check alignment after upper control arms are loosened or removed. GL

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[EB4X]

Yeah..... total nightmare.....I had to really fight to get mine in and out... good times....

 

[songboat]

It is being difficult for sure. Thank you for the advice. I was thinking turning the steering wheel might help. I will come back for the rest of the story. Been at it about 5 hours now with one break.

 

[poker4me007]

It is being difficult for sure. Thank you for the advice. I was thinking turning the steering wheel might help. I will come back for the rest of the story. Been at it about 5 hours now with one break.

It may take a while but not 5 hours, can you post a pic.? It shouldn't take that long.

 

[songboat]

It may take a while but not 5 hours, can you post a pick? It shouldn't take that long.

I think I need to loosen the hard lines. I just finished removing the little heat shield. Which I don't think I had to do.

 

[swshawaii]

Gently pry the plastic clips from the metal brackets or pull the hard lines off the plastic clips for wiggle room.

Removing driver side upper control arm bolt

I'm replacing the upper control arms on a 98 Explorer. The passenger side was easy but the driver side is a different story. I got the bolt loose but I can't get the bolt completely off to remove the arm because of the fuel lines, they are in the way. How do I get the bolt off with the fuel...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[XLTrunner]

As mentioned, the key to this is to loosen the bolt and shove the arm inward. Really quite easy once you apply this helpful tip.

 

[CDW6212R]

It's an interesting puzzle, I've done it about five times. It takes the right rotation of the OEM bolts to get the welded on washer in the right spot, to let the washer get past the lines etc. My first truck I did was in 2004, my 98 Mercury, and I had to get the emissions line un-clamped or however that is, to get space to do it. The next time I figured out how to move the UCA and bolts/washers, just so, and not have to move the emission line. I haven't had to the last three times either.

It just takes a few minutes to get the bolts out, once you know first that it will come apart, and then be patient enough to keep changing the orientation of the bolts and the UCA etc. It is like a puzzle that you can work well, once you've done it. Keep at it, go slow, it's not a high force issue, it takes a little bit of force to finally get the bolt/washer to clear.

 

[songboat]

I think I need to loosen the hard lines. I just finished removing the little heat shield. Which I don't think I had to do.

I did take a lengthy break. I get aggravated and just have to walk away.

It's an interesting puzzle, I've done it about five times. It takes the right rotation of the OEM bolts to get the welded on washer in the right spot, to let the washer get past the lines etc. My first truck I did was in 2004, my 98 Mercury, and I had to get the emissions line un-clamped or however that is, to get space to do it. The next time I figured out how to move the UCA and bolts/washers, just so, and not have to move the emission line. I haven't had to the last three times either.

It just takes a few minutes to get the bolts out, once you know first that it will come apart, and then be patient enough to keep changing the orientation of the bolts and the UCA etc. It is like a puzzle that you can work well, once you've done it. Keep at it, go slow, it's not a high force issue, it takes a little bit of force to finally get the bolt/washer to clear.

I am now in the process of trying to get the lines out of those clips, i have only gotten one out so gar today. I will follow your instructions again and hopefully will not have to get those fuel lines loose. How do you get those clips off the lines, just curious?

 

[CDW6212R]

I think those have a plastic clip which pushes through a hole in the frame, is that the ones you mean? There was one somewhere that had a self tapping bolt holding it, about a 10mm bolt head.

 

[songboat]

I think those have a plastic clip which pushes through a hole in the frame, is that the ones you mean? There was one somewhere that had a self tapping bolt holding it, about a 10mm bolt head.

No i am talking about the hard plastic clips that hold multiple lines

 

[CDW6212R]

Oh, you are talking about the brake lines, or the fuel lines? Below shows the LF suspension of my 99 without the body on it.

 

[CDW6212R]

The largest metal line is the emissions line, it leads to the rear charcoal canisters. The smaller one just on the back side of the shock tower, that's the fuel line, prior to 1999 there are two there.

 

[songboat]

Oh, you are talking about the brake lines, or the fuel lines? Below shows the LF suspension of my 99 without the body on it.

View attachment 330386

The largest metal line is the emissions line, it leads to the rear charcoal canisters. The smaller one just on the back side of the shock tower, that's the fuel line, prior to 1999 there are two there.

I am talking about these plastic guides. I am afraid I will break the lines.

 

[CDW6212R]

The plastic clamps that attach to the frame can be pried out, without taking the steel or aluminum line out of them. I think only the fuel and emissions lines are close to the CA bolt that they may need to be moved slightly. The brake lines should be nowhere near those bolts. The big emissions line is the one that I recall having to push inward as the CA bolt/washer is fished out of there.

 

[songboat]

The plastic clamps that attach to the frame can be pried out, without taking the steel or aluminum line out of them. I think only the fuel and emissions lines are close to the CA bolt that they may need to be moved slightly. The brake lines should be nowhere near those bolts. The big emissions line is the one that I recall

 

[songboat]

Thank you

I haven't tried it yet today I have been trying to delete that post. YIKES!

 

[songboat]

Ok I have a new issue. I am replacing the upper ball joint on frnt drivers side. The bolt holding the rear of the control arm will not clear the frame. What do I do?

OMG I got it out. Thank you to evetyone for you support!!!!!!!

 

[swshawaii]

Cool! Now you have to install the new UCA and get the bolt back IN. Yes?