1954 F100 short bed body onto a 1999 Ranger short bed Chassis | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1954 F100 short bed body onto a 1999 Ranger short bed Chassis

@410Fortune @CDW6212R For some reason FORD wanted to separate the brake light switch from cruise disengage? Could it be because one trip that me and the wife went on a day trip and suddenly the cruise would not disengage. I was turning off the ignition as I rolled in to AutoZone's parking lot. Turns out that my big boot knocked the brake switch a loose, unplugged. I plugged it back in and it worked.
On the 95 up Explorers and '98 Rangers, does the disengage switch have to have constant battery power or can it be wired to KO power?

I would guess that the change in the CC systems is what altered circuits, and the CC would back feed by the BOO switch and not disengage the CC etc. Their answer to add that sensor onto the MC is my guess to solve it, but there is likely a better way to do that without the MC sensor at all.
 



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you tap brakes, CC disables, not that tricky
I built 84 ranger using 92 explorer dash and 92 style cruise control (vacuum)
Using 97 5.0 PCM and OBD2 conversion, the 92 style cruise control works just fine.............. it only needs signals from vss and BOO to operate
 






That's what I thought, but the MC switch recall surprised me too. I don't know what changed from before those, but it was something dumb for them to run that constant current through the sensor there.
 






IGNITION SWITCH MODIFICATION:
The built on the Ranger column switches will not be used on the '54 F100 so older Ford, but not too old, switches will have to be wired to the '99 harness. 1978 F100 has enough pins on the ignition switch to do this. Also the switch and new switch bezel are available. I'm still looking for the replacement switch pigtail. It will take both diagrams and such to get this right without letting out the "magic smoke".
79f100-ingsw3.jpg

78 f100-ign-swi-wirecolors.jpg

1978-79 Bronco and F100
99rangerignswpinout.jpg

1999 Ranger ignition switch
Ranger switch ground will need grounded to the metal dash. F100 switch housing grounds to metal dash.
 






The old Fords all did that, inside the dash circuits ground to the dash metal itself. Just run one or two solid wires to each side of the kick panels, where the 1999 body harness has main ground wires that bolt on there to the body.
 






Soldering iron options: I have gotten to the point that I can't put off buying a new soldering iron. I want an adjustable temperature type. I used to see some for $60- t0 $80-, usd. I haven't seen one tonight as I look around online. Here are a couple of options.
I haven't seen this type
A cheap adjustable
This would be handy
Self-feeding
Wal-Mart
60-watt station
Amazon
Another station type
I don't have a problem paying more for a really good soldering iron. I can do a decent job soldering when I have a good iron. I read something somewhere that if you see smoke, then the iron is too hot. I'm looking for any tips as to how to do a better job soldering and open to suggestions as to what the best iron would be. I have a 20 to 25 pound roll of Kester solder, so I don't think that will run out of it. Also I have some liquid flux from a foreign country that used to make it for a space program. I can get the type off of the roll of Kester. It came from a retired Telephone man/relative of mine. I have 2 car projects at work and my '54 project that will all need a fair amount of soldering.
 






The last 2 on the list will work
 






The best irons are the stations with the adjustable rheostat. I prefer Weller. I’ve used them extensively in an industrial setting, and other than tips, they’ve always been rock solid.

Weller 5 to 30 Variable Wattage Precision Grip Soldering Iron Station - WLSK3012A https://a.co/d/hgywT3T

This will be my next iron. I like how it holds it tip up so the heat doesn’t just leach up into the handle when you are doing a few hours of soldering.
 






I love my Weller to
 






I love my weller irons!! Shoot one or two of them have to be older then me
But I now live off grid, plugging in things that heat up puts strain on our battery bank so I avoid it where I can
I have switched to a butane powered unit for most work, and I friggin love it!! Works so well and fast

Amazon product ASIN B0892S4MDM
Look ma! no cords


I also use a micro torch for some of the larger gauge wires.......soldering with a torch is so fast!!
However it is not for all situations, sometimes I still have to plug in the ol weller
 






I love my weller irons!! Shoot one or two of them have to be older then me
But I now live off grid, plugging in things that heat up puts strain on our battery bank so I avoid it where I can
I have switched to a butane powered unit for most work, and I friggin love it!! Works so well and fast

Amazon product ASIN B0892S4MDM
Look ma! no cords


I also use a micro torch for some of the larger gauge wires.......soldering with a torch is so fast!!
However it is not for all situations, sometimes I still have to plug in the ol weller
I have a Dremel butane kit, and LOVE it. If I have a just a single repair to make, it’s always the butane, for how fast it heats up. If I’m building a harness on the bench, I’d rather use the station.

Dremel 2200-01 Versa Flame Multi-Function Butane Torch Perfect for Wood Burning, Leather Crafting, Stencil Cutting, Cordless Soldering, Hot-Knife Cutting of Foam, Plastics and Rope https://a.co/d/ctLQR0d

The hot knife works well, and the blower tube is the best for shrink wrap.
 






@Mbrooks420 @donalds @410Fortune . I figured with 420 in your name that it was something electrical that you are in to. I'm glad to get your feedback on the Weller guys. Last night I couldn't remember that name. I looked at my roll of solder and it is closer to 30 pounds. It says
Kester "Resin-Five" on it. It's sitting on an ammo box that is at least 6"x12"x7" deep.
kester-rosin5.jpg

ADDED: The Weller is on the way and the resistors are in motion. Some are for the cruise control and also got some 390 and 39K for EGR delete on OBD1. I don't know if that will work on OBD2. The triangle circuit to make the '88 5.0 ECM think that the EGR is hooked up.
 






That looks like it is over 40 years old.
 












Chicago 39 and Newark 5. Is that something to do with when phone numbers were like 5 digits.
 






Chicago 39 and Newark 5. Is that something to do with when phone numbers were like 5 digits.
It’s the city and ward.
 






The resistors that I ordered for the cruise control came earlier in the week. Items that are coming from the west coast usually get here pretty fast as long as it is not RockAuto using DHL? Monday the Weller multi setting soldering station should be here. I'm going to start wire work on the cruise control so I can test the CC unit from LKQ before the warranty runs out.
I also have a 10 ft 2-gauge red battery cable coming so that I can relocate the battery to under the floor like the '54 had. For now, it will be sitting on the passenger floorboard. I'm removing everything attached to the inner aprons on both sides. Eventually none of the Ranger sheet metal will be on the front third of the truck. While the 3.0 is still in place, the radiator support will remain. On the drivers side the RABS was removed. I detached the relay box, remove the bracket, took the leg off of it and made a bracket out of it so that the EVAP valve could attach to the AC compressor. Also, out of angle iron, I made a bracket for the relay box to attach to the brake booster/MC studs.
99evapvalvebracket.jpg

99relayboxbracket.jpg

I've been going through my measurements again from ~2009? I may have a .35" wheelbase issue. More later.
 






An Amazon package showed up and last week I made 2 separate orders 2 days apart. They did something totally logical. They shipped all of my items together in one box. What gives? So now I have the Weller and the 10ft battery cable that is made in USA.
weller.jpg

Shaky picture.
 






They shipped all the items in one box cause they charged you to ship them separately. Same logic applies when someone is late for work, they make up time by leaving to go home early.
 



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I was able to get in about 45 minutes this evening soldering together my test harness for the cruise control. 3 of the resistors are coast, set/accelerate and resume. The one wire with a single resistor is to turn the system on. Monday I will test the Cruise Control system.
99cctestharness.jpg

Below, a better picture of the new American made 10ft long positive cable for the relocated battery.
10ftpositive.jpg
 






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