97 Mounty 5L What could this noise under acceleration be? Help much appreciated! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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97 Mounty 5L What could this noise under acceleration be? Help much appreciated!

OzMounty

New Member
Joined
January 19, 2024
Messages
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City, State
Winston-Salem, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
Mountaineer 1997
97 Mounty 5L 80K miles Recently had a shop change noisy pulley. No belt change. It started on the way back from a 1100 mile journey NC to NYC via DC. Lots of times when I needed WOT to get the ol trooper up to speed merging etc.
It happens on acceleration up hills and when lifting off like in my video.
Video here
YT vid
 



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Maybe this thread will help.

 






I hear it! That is an odd noise when he lets off the fuel feed and rpm drop to 3k there is a screech

Truck running great!

Is the noise under the hood for sure? Not in the dash?

It could be your cam synchronizer
 






Another thought.
If your truck has the EATC type heater ac controls, with no knobs, try a different setting. I'm assuming you are on heater now, switch to ac just to see if sound changes. My EATC makes a reed type sounds on occasion.
 






Lots of times when I needed WOT to get the ol trooper up to speed merging etc.
Don't know what the sound is, but you may have some engine or tranny problems if you need to WOT it to simply accelerate or merge, etc. Either that or you're just trying to rag it out?
 






I hear it! That is an odd noise when he lets off the fuel feed and rpm drop to 3k there is a screech

Truck running great!

Is the noise under the hood for sure? Not in the dash?

It could be your cam synchronizer
Thanks for the replies, it does sound healthy! 80k miles and feels new really.
Think I found the sound, the odometer stopped working around that time. Today I started pushing in and out the trip meter and made the sound get worse for a bit and then pushed it in really hard and let go abruptly and seems to have reduced the sound a lot.
Does make sense! Will maybe take it somewhere to get it looked at, as I don't like the idea of pulling a speedo/cluster, seems like a days work if inexperienced.

The Mounty, damn its so nice, best $2,500 I ever spent. I saw one on Bring a Trailer $12K with 100k miles, same all books, all service records, and one owner. I also got the window sticker.

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Omg treat that thing right, it’s gorgeous
 






Thanks for the replies, it does sound healthy! 80k miles and feels new really.
Think I found the sound, the odometer stopped working around that time. Today I started pushing in and out the trip meter and made the sound get worse for a bit and then pushed it in really hard and let go abruptly and seems to have reduced the sound a lot.
Does make sense! Will maybe take it somewhere to get it looked at, as I don't like the idea of pulling a speedo/cluster, seems like a days work if inexperienced.

The Mounty, damn its so nice, best $2,500 I ever spent. I saw one on Bring a Trailer $12K with 100k miles, same all books, all service records, and one owner. I also got the window sticker.

View attachment 449768


View attachment 449769
Man that's a beautiful Moutaineer bro
 






Man that's a beautiful Moutaineer bro

Omg treat that thing right, it’s gorgeous

Thanks yeah it is my coming to America gift from God :) Our first car here, Im an Aussie that lived based in Korea traveling around Asia for 10yrs and moved here with my wife 6 months ago.

I wish I had a garage, it's been garaged its whole life and will be back in one soon.
It looks newer than all the 2010's and most 2020's cars in my complex.

Since this pic I got genuine old stock MOUNTAINEER floor mats for $80 from Ebay and new cruise control buttons for the steering wheel. Dash and all controls are perfect. This pic was actually the day I bought it, so have gone around all little bits of the door frame with a brush since then also.

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Thanks yeah it is my coming to America gift from God :) Our first car here, Im an Aussie that lived based in Korea traveling around Asia for 10yrs and moved here with my wife 6 months ago.

I wish I had a garage, it's been garaged its whole life and will be back in one soon.
It looks newer than all the 2010's and most 2020's cars in my complex.

Since this pic I got genuine old stock MOUNTAINEER floor mats for $80 from Ebay and new cruise control buttons for the steering wheel. Dash and all controls are perfect. This pic was actually the day I bought it, so have gone around all little bits of the door frame with a brush since then also.

View attachment 449782
Wow man that is immaculate
 






As a professional detailer I would highly recommend having it ceramic coated and paint corrected so it will last as long as possible and look 10X better in the process also keep those wheels clean and polished as well those things are beautiful
 






You can have the instrument cluster out about 15 minutes with a 7mm and a 8mm ;)

Going inside to replace the speedometer and odometer assembly is not terrible! We love our gen iis they are fairly straightforward to work on
 






As a professional detailer I would highly recommend having it ceramic coated and paint corrected so it will last as long as possible and look 10X better in the process also keep those wheels clean and polished as well those things are beautiful
Thanks, I will reply back to with some pics get your advice on a few things. It has some paint flaking in areas along the roof gutter, not rust but it could turn into rust.
I got a random DA buffer, compound and polish, but I am getting into earning some good money now, so I am thinking of skipping playing around on it myself and getting a paint shop spray just the parts that are flaking. Then get it professionally compounded, buffed, and coated.
 






I now have a P0340, cam position sensor error code but no more sound! I do think it was maybe that all along perhaps but it really did sound like it came from behind the cluster and it disappeared exactly after me pressing the trip reset multiple times. I did give it a decent rev after that and the sound was not there at all. Next morning fine then the evening when I jumped in had the check engine light on.
If the cam position sensor completely went would it damage the engine? It seems to only come into play on cold starts from whatever I've read.
Will maybe take it to some shop. I saw that the alternator could also cause this if having low voltage.

Last shop that I took it to, when it was making a really big whining noise from the belts, they told me it's probably the water pump. So I said okay I'll drop it in the morning and yeah change it over. They got back to me a few hours later and said it's not the water pump it's the idler pulley and the alternator so it's going to cost $650! I told them I would just come and pick it up. they said it's all in parts. I'm not sure if it really was in parts or not, I don't know if you need to pull it all apart to diagnose this. I think they just wanted money. So I said okay I'll give you a an hour of labor for your time please just bolt it back up and I'll drive it, they said okay. Then they call me back 30 minutes later they said that they put it all back together and it's seized up the idler pulley and that it won't be drivable, I said okay well I'll get a tow truck, they were like oh this and that then said okay we'll put a new idler pulley on it it'll cost you 220 bucks. They didn't change the belt at all. Sounded fine I went and picked it up it's running beautiful since then! I really hate to get robbed!
But the alternator may need changing, will get a multimeter at it first.
 






I would be very careful about compounding your car. Factory paint jobs tend to have a VERY thin clear, and it’s very easy to burn through that.

With a custom job, you can lay on a really thick layer of clear, and then compound/buff the hell out of that.
 






You can have the instrument cluster out about 15 minutes with a 7mm and a 8mm ;)

Going inside to replace the speedometer and odometer assembly is not terrible! We love our gen iis they are fairly straightforward to work on
Thanks, will give it a go! There is also a bulb out in there that would be great to change
I would be very careful about compounding your car. Factory paint jobs tend to have a VERY thin clear, and it’s very easy to burn through that.

With a custom job, you can lay on a really thick layer of clear, and then compound/buff the hell out of that.
True, the more I read after buying the compound and DA the more I was hesitant, then I got busy and left it.
 






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