Time to sell?

[Eric1971]

Pondering selling my 1995 Eddie Bauer RWD.

Bought it in March 2018 from the older adult son of the original owner with 140k miles, lots of little things not working which I have since fixed (some more than once!). It's now about to turn 30 years old, with 166k miles; almost 4k/year that I've had it. Nothing terminally wrong with it: power seems a little more sluggish though MPG hasn't changed, ABS light is on though brakes work great, AC compressor is leaking and will have to be replaced once it gets hot AF around here, small ongoing oil leak from I believe the oil filter adapter o-rings (maybe just tighten the bolt if you can get to it - IYKYK!).

It was the previous owner's 3rd/extra car, it is our 3rd/extra car that I got because I don't want to use the Mustang as a daily driver. Wife and I are currently at home full-time for work and school so we don't need a 3rd/extra very much, hell we barely need 2 until she starts back to work. Insurance costs about the same for the Ex as both my 2005 Mustang GT and our 2014 Outback, I assume because parts are scarce and if it get's even a minor hit they know they'll have to total it. I've enjoyed tinkering with it these almost 7 years but now I'm feeling kinda "done".

I don't know... I'd appreciate some input from fellow owners.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

If you live somewhere where it snows the X will be a good winter beater. Assuming eventually youll need 2 cars, I'd keep the X so you can drive it in winter. As far as hauling theres not much more than X can do than the Outback, assuming youre not at Home Depot daily.

Do you have full coverage? Just liability is significantly cheaper st least here and at its age, not really worth it IMO.

 

[Rick]

You know the history of this Explorer. What you put into it, how it was treated by it's original owners. 166k is still relatively low mileage on these things. We have members with over 300k.

 

[EB4X]

You state FWD .....so I'm assuming you mean this has 4WD.....we have same vehicle. As Rick stated (as long as you don't let this engine overheat) you can easily get 300K out of it... testimonies of many with 400K and still going....same heads etc without internal work needed. You have a very low mileage 4.0 ohv for 2024, I'm jealous. Just curious, does yours have the L.S. rear end? ...to find out check door sticker and if under "AXLE" the code starts with an "L" or a "D" you do....extra bonus.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

View attachment 459782

You know the history of this Explorer. What you put into it, how it was treated by it's original owners. 166k is still relatively low mileage on these things. We have members with over 300k.

From back in July. Cant remember how many miles are on it now, probably 336 or thereabouts. These trucks are indeed quite reliable.

 

[C420sailor]

Earlier this week. While driving Virginia Beach to Indianapolis. Yep, I still take her on very long trips—she’s my daily driver.

They can be very reliable if you put the work in…but if you’re getting tired of that, and you don’t have a good use for it…maybe it’s time to sell.

But I wouldn’t sell it to replace with another around town SUV. As mentioned, you’re just inheriting another person’s unknowns. Devil you know vs the devil you don’t……..

 

[Fix4Dirt]

View attachment 459799
Earlier this week. While driving Virginia Beach to Indianapolis. Yep, I still take her on very long trips—she’s my daily driver.

They can be very reliable if you put the work in…but if you’re getting tired of that, and you don’t have a good use for it…maybe it’s time to sell.

But I wouldn’t sell it to replace with another SUV. As mentioned, you’re just inheriting another person’s unknowns. Devil you know vs the devil you don’t……..

How do you ahve 350k on the SOHC? I'm at 336 (I just checked) and its showing its age and mileage over time. But hey Luke Combs said a good trucks got maybe 300k haha. Id be less hesitant to drive it far if I put in lowr mileage stuff haha. I cant remember if you refreshed yours or not.

 

[C420sailor]

Replaced the engine. At 120k it started the death rattle. By 200k it was rattling pretty badly, so I replaced the engine before it jumped time. Threw in a motor with 36k. I’ve been very particular about maintenance with that one (hydraulic tensioners every 75k, for example) and just finally did the mechanical tensioners. I do transmission fluid every 30k and run external filters.

I maintain my vehicles like I do airplanes. Everything is on a schedule. I keep a logbook in the truck. I keep an excel spreadsheet with dates and mileage of every single part I replace. I have a dry erase board in my garage that I update with upcoming maintenance and the associated mileage, and I list maintenance ‘gripes’ that need to get fixed.

It’s a lot of work, but it’s how I can confidently drive 800mi to training, or 400 miles round trip to work a few times a month with nothing but my truck tool set in the cargo area.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Replaced the engine. At 120k it started the death rattle. By 200k it was rattling pretty badly, so I replaced the engine before it jumped time. Threw in a motor with 36k. I’ve been very particular about maintenance with that one (hydraulic tensioners every 75k, for example) and just finally did the mechanical tensioners. I do transmission fluid every 30k and run external filters.

I maintain my vehicles like I do airplanes. Everything is on a schedule. I keep a logbook in the truck. I keep an excel spreadsheet with dates and mileage of every single part I replace. I have a dry erase board in my garage that I update with upcoming maintenance and the associated mileage, and I list maintenance ‘gripes’ that need to get fixed.

It’s a lot of work, but it’s how I can confidently drive 800mi to training, or 400 miles round trip to work a few times a month with nothing but my truck tool set in the cargo area.

Ahhh Im the same way & so was my dad since he boiught it new. Oil and air/oil filter every 3k, tranny every 30k (less if lots of towing) he put a bigger trans cooler, diffs and tcase every 30k, etc. It still runs like a top and Ive taken it over 1000 mile trips but it acts up here and there I think its electrical darn gremlins! Compression is still strong and so is the tranny though so I guess Im still in good shape overall though.

 

[Eric1971]

You state FWD .....so I'm assuming you mean this has 4WD.....we have same vehicle. As Rick stated (as long as you don't let this engine overheat) you can easily get 300K out of it... testimonies of many with 400K and still going....same heads etc without internal work needed. You have a very low mileage 4.0 ohv for 2024, I'm jealous. Just curious, does yours have the L.S. rear end? ...to find out check door sticker and if under "AXLE" the code starts with an "L" or a "D" you do....extra bonus.

Sorry, typo/brain-fart, I meant RWD. Only things I wish were different on this one is 4x4 and 1996 for the ODC-II port, but I've never needed 4x4 so maybe that's just more thing to maintain and now I have the older reader so not a big deal there either.

Door sticker says "AXLE: D4". Can you explain further what that means?

 

[Eric1971]

If you live somewhere where it snows the X will be a good winter beater. Assuming eventually youll need 2 cars, I'd keep the X so you can drive it in winter. As far as hauling theres not much more than X can do than the Outback, assuming youre not at Home Depot daily.

Do you have full coverage? Just liability is significantly cheaper st least here and at its age, not really worth it IMO.

Atlanta area, so road salt is not a thing, but that also means I'm fine with this RWD. I do not have comprehensive/collision on the X but it's still $570/yr vs. $620 for the 2005 Mustang GT and $690 for the 2014 Outback. That's after re-shopping insurance this year so nobody reputable is cheaper that I found.

 

[Eric1971]

I think the main things that if fixed, I'd be happy to keep cruising along in the X are:

• Oil leak: I have tracked that as much as possible and am 90% sure it's the bolt tightness and/or o-rings on the oil filter adapter. I have the o-rings and I did try a few years ago to get to the adapter but no matter how much penetrating spray, I could not break the exhaust bolts loose. I now have a cordless impact wrench that might get it. I just don't want to mangle the exhaust and end up with another repair to do. It's probably no more than a dozen drops per day, but I hate being self-conscious about other people's driveways. I mean, I know I'd be annoyed if someone dripped oil on my driveway. I have a mat I put under it now at home. So, minor annoyance, but annoyance none the less.
• AC: I "saved money" last summer by replacing the burnt-out AC clutch. Shop wanted to replace the whole compressor for $850 and I did the clutch for $90. They told me shops used to do clutches back in the day but now just do the whole thing and they don't have the tool, which I assume is the press needed to get the new clutch on properly. So I got the new clutch on but now I see I damaged the compressor as there is leak dye all over the belt end of the compressor. AC was fine all last summer, but come next summer, you cannot drive around here without AC. I tried and my poor 9yo and I ended up drenched in sweat just driving 15 minutes home from camp one day. It's possible I can do the compressor myself if the shop will evacuate the system, I can install and vacuum test, then just pay them to recharge. The shop said evacuate/recharge was included together, I'd need to find out if they'd let me do that days apart.
• Misc:
  • Anyone know where I can get replacement liftgate weather strip? I haven't found it. It's getting to where it's just completely falling off at the bottom and I cannot get it to stay and the ends don't meet either, so there's a gap.
  • Power antenna: the cable gears stripped out, so I replaced the mast and a few months later that one stripped out too. I've gerry-rigged it with a plain antenna mast but had to pull the fuse to keep the motor from running. Now my power mirrors don't work, same fuse, but I haven't needed to move the mirrors since I'm the only one that drives it. I suppose easiest would be to get back in to the motor and pull the power connector so I can put the fuse back in.
  • ABS light: breaks work fine, I've even tried to get them to lock up. No lock-up, but I'm not hearing the ABS engage either. Just haven't had the time or initiative to troubleshoot since it drives fine.

That's it... not that much wrong compared to when I got it.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Sorry, typo/brain-fart, I meant RWD. Only things I wish were different on this one is 4x4 and 1996 for the ODC-II port, but I've never needed 4x4 so maybe that's just more thing to maintain and now I have the older reader so not a big deal there either.

Door sticker says "AXLE: D4". Can you explain further what that means?

D4 should be a 4.10 limited slip I think? Either that or 373 LS. For some reason Im having a brain fart. An LS, posi trac, trac lok, all they do is use clutches to try to limit the slip between both sides trying to put power to both wheels when driving. By contrast a typical open diff has nothing to try to ewualize the pressures and thus power will travel the parh of least resistance (aka the wheel with less holding it back) For example if you jack up
your truck and hold one wheel still, with open diff you can spin the other with LS you shouldnt unless you apply alot of force and slip the clutches.

 

[Pete Deering]

D

D4 should be a 4.10 limited slip I think? Either that or 373 LS. For some reason Im having a brain fart. An LS, posi trac, trac lok, all they do is use clutches to try to limit the slip between both sides trying to put power to both wheels when driving. By contrast a typical open diff has nothing to try to ewualize the pressures and thus power will travel the parh of least resistance (aka the wheel with less holding it back) For example if you jack up
your truck and hold one wheel still, with open diff you can spin the other with LS you shouldnt unless you apply alot of force and slip the clutches.

D4 is the limited slip 3.73

 

[EB4X]

Atlanta area, so road salt is not a thing, but that also means I'm fine with this RWD. I do not have comprehensive/collision on the X but it's still $570/yr vs. $620 for the 2005 Mustang GT and $690 for the 2014 Outback. That's after re-shopping insurance this year so nobody reputable is cheaper that I found.

Yeah, that's expensive insurance, my basic coverage per year is $350 ...two vehicle policy so small price break.

 

[C420sailor]

I’d bet your AC system is empty, so I wouldn’t worry too much about properly evacuating the system—it’s likely already gone.

If you’re gonna get in there and do the compressor, you need to also do the drier. If you’re gonna do the drier, replace the orifice tube. And at that point, disconnect all the lines and replace all the green o-rings.

It’s honestly not a bad job…just be sure that’s your only leak before you start.

 

[sehaare]

To be honest you would at least have to fix the ABS to get any real money for the explorer.

No one is going to pay much money for a 30 year old SUV with an ABS light on. I'm in the rust belt so the rust is eating my 98 away, It sits parked 99% of the time now but I still use it to get lumber that wouldn't fit in my other cars and the back of it has become a portable storage shed while it is parked. It worth more to me for those two reasons than I would get for selling it.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Is the vehicle garaged? If so, it's old enough to be considered historical and put on a Collectors policy. Cost will be WAY less.

 

[EB4X]

I still use it to get lumber that wouldn't fit in my other cars and the back of it has become a portable storage shed while it is parked. It worth more to me for those two reasons than I would get for selling it.

My Explorer is specifically used for off-roading or hauling .... rear seats folded flat and it becomes a "Ranger" .....also when I have to do repair / maintenance on daily, drive it while the gasket sealant is drying on daily.

 

[Eric1971]

Is the vehicle garaged? If so, it's old enough to be considered historical and put on a Collectors policy. Cost will be WAY less.

Unfortunately no. Our nicer, newer cars are in the garage.