Ranger one - my son’s first Ford. 98 stepside build by 410customs | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Ranger one - my son’s first Ford. 98 stepside build by 410customs

Dawned on me today
The speedometer is acting funky
Well I know why!
2003 the pcm takes the oss sensor and generates the speedo output for the dash and others
1998 ranger the abs module takes the vss signal from the rear axle and generates the speedo output for the dash and others

I had both the pcm and the abs module hooked up… confusing things
After I varified all connections I simply snipped the wire coming out of the abs pump and now my pcm is handling the circuit 679 grey w black speedo output signal to speedometer cruise control and 4wd shift

The abs module is on the chopping block
I will delete abs from this truck (personal preference) and probably end up installing a different master and a disc brake 31 spline rear axle

98 ranger speed sensor
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2005 ranger speed sensor
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I was able to get the transfer case to shift all the way to low range. It does not like shifting back out of low range
Likely a bad relay inside the 98 control module
 



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I'm glad that you got this sorted out.
If my threads that I follow was working properly and had let me know that you had posted this Sunday morning, I wouldn't have had to message so much back and forth. I know that it is a forum issue and not an Explorer issue. I noticed in recent posts that Josh P made a comment and I wondered why I didn't get notification, so I unwatched the thread, then rewatched it. However, I was without grid power from 8a.m. to 9a.m. Central time, so I would have missed it live. That may be happening on all my favorite threads and all the while I'm wondering why it appears that no one is doing anything.
Back to the truck. Is this truck of Baylee's Ranger is all 4-wheel antilock? A few of years ago, June 2022, in my 1999 Ranger/54F-100 project, I got a bit ahead of myself cutting out a module on the 2wd '99 Ranger.
I had rear, 2-wheel ABS and here is a link to the posts on page 4 where we determined that the 2-wheel system vs the 4-wheel system get their signals 2 different ways. Here is a link to that discussion.
99 Ranger 2wd with rear ABS only Post # 67 gets specific.
I'm glad that the pcm cross swap is working out. I need to look at the door sticker of the yellow Sport Trac that the bin file came from that your pcm is currently flashed to. I'll add that picture too, to its file folder. I need to check how much label tape is in the brother label maker. The information indeed came in handy.
I have 5 PATS off bin files currently available:
1999 Ranger 3.0/auto 2wd Flex Fuel (ground the blue with orange stripe PATS wire)
1998 5.0 Explorer (hopefully today I can confirm its specifics. It's 2wd and there is a mid 1998 change from 3-wire cam ps to 2-wire)
1999 Crown Victoria P71 "cop car" pcm flashed ARA1 from the factory updated via FoMoCo to ARA3. PATS free from the factory.
2002? Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 2wd automatic
2004 Mazda B4000 4 door (super cab) automatic 4wd with 4.1 gears
 






Yes this ranger is 4wabs

Some rangers are rabs only… but this one has 4 wheel pump. The book also shows the speed sensor signal for the RABS trucks too
RABS would be on 4cyl rwd rangers in 98 mostly which would also have coil springs not torsion bars

The 04 Mazda crushy donor was 2004 B4000 4 door (super cab) automatic 4wd with 4.1 gears
 






Here’s how you fix a door ajar light in a ranger or explorer

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Door panel removed

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Took picture of drivers door lock assembly
See how dirty things are?
The little door ajar / drivers door master switch it located on the bottom of this assembly. It twists to come out of its mount: you can’t twist it far enough to release without first removing the 3 screws that hold assembly to door

Once it’s loose you can twist the switch 180 degrees as it comes out

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The end of this switch is so dirty that it has lost its spring… it’s a spring loaded metal stud. So with a small pick some carb cleaner a rag and some pb
Blaster it’s all clean again. After initial
Cleaning I pb blaster it and with inside down I press the button about 50000 times
Clean now and has its “spring back”

Sure enough no more door ajar light

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Now with the 02 sensor fixed and the speedo getting its correct signals I am able to put the rest of the interior and exterior together. Hoping to have this sucker registered and on the road next week with new windshield

Still need to install explorer roof rack rails before the headliner goes in
I’m also planning manual chain tensioners for this 4.0
Tons of little things to do, all part of finishing the initial build. This truck is a friggin rocket ship… stepsides are light weight and this one has a R7 rear axle which is 4.10 ratio limited slip….
Hmmmm I just happened to have a sport trac 4.1 limited slip disc brake 31 spline 8.8 laying around
 






Let me know as you go through the test drive phase if you think that the 2wd program is not working out for the 4wd. I now have the
PATS turned off in your original 2004 bin file.
 






The pcm has no idea if the truck is rwd or 4wd so not a big deal this one is working just fine runs fantastic shifts smoothly no codes!!!
 






I should've known that being that there is not a pin in the pcm for 4wd.
 






So the rear drum brakes were making some noise

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Getting the drum covers off can be a challenge, lucky I know a few tricks
The adjuster was frozen and would not turn, so no way to release the shoes
Next I pry the shoe retainer rods from the backside of the backing plate with a screwdriver and then cut them with a grinder. This lets the shoes dangle a little bit inside the drum. Next I unbolt the wheel cylinder from the backing plate. This allows more movement from the shoes. Now smack the drum with a sledge on all sides and the face, with screwdriver from the back try to pry the shoes inward. Finally the drum comes off and parts / springs hit the floor. Victory! For anyone who has battled brake drums in the past you know you can spend a whole day on this… so one hour is not bad to be looking at the brakes

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Big shock, the entire parking brake assembly was missing
The park brake lever was just hanging loose inside the brake, it was running on the drum

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So I installed all new e brake hardware, new springs and shoes and even new drums

Good chance to use my Vice
Grip Garage rebuild spray… which is actually a very high quality spray paint imo

Brakes were gravity bled then power bled..
All the old 1998 brake fluid is gone and man oh man do we have some good braking now! (This ranger is running the larger front rotors from a 02 trac)
 






Next up my kid is a skier and I put a Yakima ski rack on his jeep. We are gonna need a way to mount it on this ranger. While there was no headliner I took the opportunity
(I get this mod from my stepson, he has this in his ranger for many years now)

Explorer factory
Luggage rack cut down to fit a ranger

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96 explorer factory luggage rack, cutting the rails down for Ranger roof

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Nutsert rivets and perfect for this with a little silicoln to keep water out

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Rack was centered and measured several
Times
Hole locations marked and drilled
Holes filed smooth, nutserts installed with some permatex
Rack was bolted on with factory explorer screws and some thread sealant on the threads. The front most bolts I went with longer screws and added nylock nuts underneath just to make sure it cannot pull off the roof sheet metal

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Love it! Really sets this ranger apart
Now interior can be completed and headliner installed
 






Now a reoccurring p0443 canister vent circuit failure is the last trouble code
So I checked my wiring

Canister vent gets power from same fuse as the 02 sensors… the other wire goes directly to the pcm for vent control.
With multimeter I checked wiring direct from vent valve to fuse.. it’s goood. Checked other wire all the way to pcm and was surprised to find out it’s also good. So must be faulty vent valve. Out comes the 1998 original part and I replaced it with one from a 2005 parts ranger

Another opportunity for the rebuild spray

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Old vent valve full of dirt,
Could be the cause?

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Dropped the whole charcoal canister assembly out for cleaning and refresh
Replaced Vent valve
So far code has not returned

FYI people the canister purge valve is in the engine bay
The canister vent valve is by the charcoal canister above spare tire.. they work together to burn fuel vapors through the engine, they are both controlled by the computer. Often people get confused and are never able to solve a vent valve code because they confuse it with the purge valve
 






Time for 4wd
The old 98 gem module and 4wd control module no longer working. I know my shift motor is good (rebuilt on bench, reman dorman part I got off some ranger some time in the past, I have a box of these motors)

So I installed a 2005 ranger 4wd control module, the motorolla box. This was done by cutting all the ESOF wires at the original
Gem module and 4wd control
Box… and tapping into other wires (power ground, boo and vss signals) so the gem module remains operational For Other truck functions

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Gem module and new moto box wired up and installed piggyback

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Sure enough we now have a functioning ESOF system
You can see the dash light and dash switch now working the transfer case
Boom! High and low range 4wd
 






Time to install the rest of the interior
Instrument cluster fully functional got cleaned up, a silver bezel and some led backlights

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Looks cool!

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Headliner has been in storage this whole time. Not easy to store headliners! Must keep them away from cats (scratching post) and mice (bedding) and dirt and debris (flys around the shop)

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Next challenge is this passenger side
Kick panel. In 04+ trucks there is a fuse box underneath

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So this kick panel has a 3” gap behind it with nothing to attach too
I got my brain turning and came up with a simple solution

I installed a double stud for the ground wire screw (green)
Then put a small piece of rubber hose on it followed by a slightly large piece, 3” long

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Now the kick panel has a “standoff” to mount to …
Factory push pin used to secure it

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Interior going in, each piece cleaned before install

2005 ranger wheel without cruise control installed. 04-05 airbags plug right into 98-03 trucks

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Door panels installed w window felts
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Headliner and all trim installed
Clean visors from a 98 explorer
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I build rangers but this is the only one we own, so I am able to throw all my Best parts at it. This is turning out to be one nice truck!

Now the bad news!
The 5r55e is shifting harsh after warmed up and if you get into the throttle, all up and downshifts get really firm! No trouble codes present

Brett (my transmission builder) and I suspect the valve body gaskets may be leaking and the epc solenoid is compensating by adding more pressure.
I’m running some lube guard red and I adjusted the bands in an effort to try and solve this. So far she’s still doing it.
So now I ordered a Dorman pan (has a drain) some more Lubeguard, a new Wix filter, and some valve body/ separator plate gaskets….

This transmission came from a 04 Mazda b4000 that was t boned pretty hard… time to go inside the valve body of the 5r….. great!!

I already miss my v8s
Let’s see if the vb bolts got loose or if the gaskets have any obvious leakage
 






Love the manual windows
 






So I’m a moron
Might want to revoke my license to wrench on things
I mean seriously

So this trans is from 04 with low miles, was a good trans before I messed with it. Now that I have it in this ranger and working it was having issues

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Dropping the pan
Love these $10 mortar mixing trays for drain pans

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Sucker would shift perfectly for the most part until o got my foot into the throttle, like getting on highway… then after that very harsh shifts.. no codes, no flashing od light, very odd behavior! Usually 5r pretty easy to diagnose

What’s wrong with this picture?

Good news is easy fix
Bad news is I installed that filter and completely missed it… still in shock over this one

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New Dorman pan w drain, new 4wd filter, new 6 quarts of Mercon v, and a bottle of lube guard … fixed. Moving on
 






Self rectal examination. Easy fix, happens to all of us.
 






Which transmission is that? That reminds me of lesson that I learned and will never forget, from late last fall when removing the 4R70W pan.
I put my little round, C-4 sized pan under the trans (I hear you chuckle@Josh P). The pan was too small. Local mech/tech Ford friend asked if I was going to install a drain plug. I said yes. he said you could have drilled a hole in the sump of the pan to drain it first.
I need to get me a mortar mixing pan like Jamie's.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Which transmission is that? That reminds me of lesson that I learned and will never forget, from late last fall when removing the 4R70W pan.
I put my little round, C-4 sized pan under the trans (I hear you chuckle@Josh P). The pan was too small. Local mech/tech Ford friend asked if I was going to install a drain plug. I said yes. he said you could have drilled a hole in the sump of the pan to drain it first.
I need to get me a mortar mixing pan like Jamie's.
Wow, you know me well. As I always say, experience is something you generally gain, just after you need it.
 






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