Tranny noise! Bad bearing??

[DAZ97XLT]

Third is the rear pinion bearing which is second worst!

 

[DAZ97XLT]

Just so you can see the other bearings here they are...
The front pinion bearing doesn't look too bad at all but the race looks pitted a little...
The passenger side carrier bearing doesn't look bad either and is probably in the best shape out of the four...

My plan is to order a complete replacement bearing kit!

 

[Josh P]

The gear teeth look good, no visible contact wear to be concerned about. The crush sleeve can fail then cause the pinion to lose its preload, and then you have a self machining part until it breaks.

 

[DAZ97XLT]

The gear teeth look good, no visible contact wear to be concerned about. The crush sleeve can fail then cause the pinion to lose its preload, and then you have a self machining part until it breaks.

Yeah thank God the gear teeth are in good shape!
Looks like all I need is new bearings, shims and a couple of miscellaneous parts plus the new fluid!!!

 

[DAZ97XLT]

Question about diff fluid!!!!!

My axle is the S612B with an open diff and the Haynes manual recommendation is as follows:
Standard Axle.........SAE 80W/90
Traction Loc Axle.......... Synthetic SAE 75W/140


The dilemma I'm having is that when I google the recommendation for my specific axle it shows that Ford recommends SAE Synthetic 75W/140 for both and doesn't even mention 80W/90.....

I looked it up a second time using different words and now it's recommending I add friction modifier to the 75W/140... The manual specifies this for Trac Loc models only...

So what do you guys think???

 

[Josh P]

So what do you guys think???

This is how wars are started. You don't need the friction modifier in an open axle. Either oil will work, the 80W/90 is basically for standard duty and the 75W/140 is when you got the tow package. I prefer the synthetic oil personally.

 

[wollimann]

sorry to see those pics.

 

[DAZ97XLT]

This is how wars are started. You don't need the friction modifier in an open axle. Either oil will work, the 80W/90 is basically for standard duty and the 75W/140 is when you got the tow package. I prefer the synthetic oil personally.

I went with the 80w/90 for three reasons....

1: This vehicle is going to be used as a daily driver and will mainly be on the freeway! It won't see much offroading or hard driving....

2: I'm on a budget and just found a deal online for 6 quarts of 80W/90 'Ultra1Plus' for $18!!!

3: I plan on draining the diff oil to clean out the axle and replace it with the better synthetic stuff down the road when I replace the axle shaft bearings and seals...

Plus if I screw something up and have to buy more oil it won't hurt my wallet too bad!

Thanks for your input btw!

 

[DAZ97XLT]

So I've ordered a dial indicator (0.001"), 6 quarts of 80W/90, a master bearing rebuild kit that includes the four bearings, carrier shims, pinion shims, new nut and pinion seal, cover gasket, red/yellow sludge with paintbrush, crush sleeve(might get spacers depending on the cost) and ten bolts for the ring gear...

I still need to look into spacers for the pinion shaft and order c clips and maybe a new pin bolt for the carrier...

I noticed the pin bolt in the carrier has some yellow loctite... Is it loctite or something else? Would I be able to use thread tape instead?
When I google this the suggestion is that I use blue loctite on this bolt and mentions nothing about yellow loctite.... I have blue loctite!

I'm also going to order a new 'pinion yoke dust shield' or "pinion bearing baffle" ... The one I have isn't cracked or look that bad but is a little worn on the contact surface and they're cheap enough so I might as well!

 

[Josh P]

I went with the 80w/90 for three reasons....

1: This vehicle is going to be used as a daily driver and will mainly be on the freeway! It won't see much offroading or hard driving....

2: I'm on a budget and just found a deal online for 6 quarts of 80W/90 'Ultra1Plus' for $18!!!

3: I plan on draining the diff oil to clean out the axle and replace it with the better synthetic stuff down the road when I replace the axle shaft bearings and seals...

Plus if I screw something up and have to buy more oil it won't hurt my wallet too bad!

Thanks for your input btw!

80W/90 is fine, I'd run it and not think twice about it. It's a good idea to change the fluid every 50k miles or so.

 

[DAZ97XLT]

I'm trying to figure out if I need to buy this part or not! I know I said in a previous post that I would order one but it seams to go by different names and I'm having trouble finding one specific to my vehicle! I've found plenty of them that look the same but if it's something that really won't make a difference then I just won't order it if I don't have too!
Here's a couple pics of the 'pinion dust shield' or 'pinion oil deflector', whatever you wanna call it....

 

[Josh P]

If it isn't cracked, run it.

 

[DAZ97XLT]

I'd suggest eliminating the crush sleeve and get spacers. It makes it where you can do the job easier and the spacers won't fail like the crush sleeve can.

I'm all ordered up on parts! I even found a pinion spacer kit for $14!

All that's left to do is prep for the new parts and wait for them to arrive!!!

There's still the issue of the hard shifting!!! I guess I can start to figure that out also... I can open a new thread for that...
I need to check the bushings where the shifter attaches to the tranny and I need to check the tc fluid for debris....
I'm hoping it's the bushings at the shifter! Seams like that would be the easiest fix!

 

[410Fortune]

“Hard shift” with a manual transmission is very interesting
It really has me looking at the transfer case, my driveline u joints and transmission mount

The engine runs smoothly?
Clutch works in all gears?
The title says tranny noise, bad bearing
The pilot bearing and throw out bearing are suspect if it’s making a “dry squeak” or a high pitched whine that is pilot bearing sometimes. Throw out bearing is
More of a dull rotational noise

If your 97 is the pushrod ohv 4.0 then you also have a camshaft synchronizer on the very back of the engine behind the lower intake manifold.. that sucker can make a nice squealing noise or chirp

A throw out bearing issue can cause some funky shifting as the clutch engages…
Either way if you are gonna drop thr trans then you need a new luk clutch pilot bearing and new luk slave and master cylinder minimum

Some stuff to think about
When checking for looseness underneath
It’s a good idea to jack up the rear end safely and grab a short pry bar
See if it’s a physical clunk, like something loose in the driveline or mounts

 

[DAZ97XLT]

Good news and bad news!

The good news is that I got all my parts! The bad news is they sent me the wrong bearing kit!!!!
They sent me a GM 8.5" instead of a Ford 8.8" kit!!!!

I also did a little more inspecting under the vehicle and the output shaft on the transfer case is pretty loose and I suspect I'll have to replace the bearings in that too!

I just want to finish the axle and see what the results are.... If it's still noisy then for sure the transfer case will be next!

 

[DAZ97XLT]

Oh! I have a concern about the pin bolt I ordered!
So the new one is exactly 2" in length and the old one is 3/32" longer.....
It's supposed to be the exact replacement! Is this going to be an issue??

I also have some concerns about the new C-clips I ordered! Are they supposed to sit over the o-rings because there's no way they'll squeeze between the lip at the end of the shaft and the o-ring itself.... I didn't try to force it just trying to make sure everything goes together the way it's supposed to!

edit:
I figured it out! It'll be fine!

 

[DAZ97XLT]

I still don't have my bearing kit! Amazon sent me another bearing kit for a GM 8.5"!!! Got the wrong kit two times in a row!
I had to order one from eBay and it's still on the way! I asked the seller if shims for the spider gears were included and they said no...
Am I gonna have to replace those too???
Here's a picture of the kit I ordered...

 

[DAZ97XLT]

I had also mentioned at the beginning of this thread that the speedometer doesn't work and I found this on the tc but I don't see a speedo cable anywhere under the vehicle! The wires to the broken connector were there and I disconnected them to remove the tc so is it not supposed to have a speedo cable??? Is that connector a speed sensor? Maybe bad contacts because it's saturated with oil!

btw I'm finding that this speed sensor is advertised for an automatic transmission not a transfer case.... Finding parts can be tricky some times!

 

[DAZ97XLT]

I'm noticing this transfer case is a bit gnarled!!!
I think it could be an old junk yard tc...

I found that the little sprocket at the end of the speed sensor is toast! Most likely the source of the debris... I also see the gear inside the tc is pretty worn itself! That's why the speedo isn't working! I also realize it's not supposed to have an actual speedo cable... I'm learning!
An issue I'm having is not being able to find the little orange sprocket/gear!!! Not positive what it's called either but when searching replacement speed sensors they don't come with the little orange sprocket either!!!!
Anyone know where I can find this thing?????

 

[DAZ97XLT]

More damage I'm finding! No wonder the fluid was low!!!
Yes the threads are damage but I'm going to clean them up as best as possible and use it!
It shouldn't be a problem!